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千里Wujiang River Ride

Source: Guizhou Literature Network Author: Founder Date: 2020-08-13    



千里Wujiang River Ride


Luo Zhongxi


Stone jar Cave: the source of the Qianliwu River


We go east from Weining County, along Weining to Hezhang326国道行走Turn in after about 10 kilometers一条蜿蜒起伏的山道。Along the way,透过大片的玉米丛,乌蒙高原带着天高云淡、诗意清幽的宁静Fly into one's face:一丛丛葱茏的树,一片片Dark green田,间杂着一幢幢青瓦白墙的村庄,犹如幅幅淡淡的水墨画,让人应接不暇。This is a landscape that can only be seen in western Guizhou, and this is a style that can only be felt on the journey to that mysterious place。

According to local人说,早些年,The vegetation here is quite well protected, the mountains around are all large forests, often tigers and leopards and other wild animals, even during the day also dare to enter the village...However, in the era of great iron and steel refining, several local iron mills were built here, and the iron was not refined, but the forest was cut down。Since then, the mountains here have gradually become barren。Whenever there is a heavy rain, flash floods occur frequently, crops and land are completely destroyed, and the potato and grain planted often fail to harvest, and people live a poor and difficult life。在经过自然的报复之后,水土保持、退耕还林、营造也就Wujiangyuan people doubly cherish the direction of development。Now there are young trees everywhere, and grass and shrubs where there are no trees。This seems to be an ecological nirvana, which also allows us to see the meaning of life and spirit。

Going straight down, our car随深陷于灌木The road in the jungle snaked together。打开车窗望去,Mountains in different directions overlap in the valley, smoke clouds across the mountains, villages embedded in the woods, simple and elegantReading the travels of the ancients, I feel that compared with Su Dongpo era, Bai Juyi era, today's乡村But the transportation is convenient, the mood is like then。

车子Spin oneAfter bendingEntering the valley area, the water system of the source of the Wujiang River has scoured a series of shallow channels in the valley。According to local人介绍Said that this ditch is usually dry, only the rainy season, will be水,平时用来行车过人。 

Past the beach, through the water woodland, and again下车Up two stone embankments, along堤岸而上,只见At the intersection of two dry rivers, called the Big and small dry gullies, there are three sturdy fir trees and some fruit trees such as walnuts, forming a small ecosystemLush foliage nurtures one a few meters squareAt the entrance of the cave, fresh springs flowed continuously from the ground碧波盈盈,清彻透底Flowing outward, like a ribbon hanging in the airIt is said that when silt is low, it canSee the natural stone slabs in the four walls of the well, they just surround the shape of a square stone well, which is the stone jar hole。

按照当地的说法,"Hole" is "well"。打量着这一石井,Hard to think象波涛骇浪的Wujiang River, its source will be like this又很难相信这A small trickle will flow a thousand miles,Magnificent, like a rainbow, all the way to the Yangtze River and the seaBut it's all so real that you really understand itIt has a long history”的含义

The family closest to the cave,A young manAn old man of ten years named Sozonko and hisposterityFrom the old man's mouth, we know that to him, their family has lived here for four generations, and their family has been fixed here generation by generation, one day and one day and one day and one day and one day。The old man talks about things, calm and peaceful, the vicissitudes of the years seem to be far away from heaven, he is just a passer-by。Playing by the well as a child,慢慢浮现出来,在他的娓娓道来中,Speaking of earlier Wells with natural flagstones half-covered,There used to be big fish coming out of the cave,And they were scared more than once,Stay aside;Said it would be dry again,水也不会少,Always is clear bright water;Talk about forests everywhere,There are plenty of wild animals;How sweet is the well water,做出的饭又是如何的香;老人At that引领着我们,Back in time to the distant past,In the oldThe mouth ofAnd everything becomes amiable,Just like old movies, scene after scene before our eyes。

The mountain behind the stone jar hole is a long mountain beam, the place name has“圆圆地”On the rocks of the gate”、"Dragon hillside" and so on, legend dragon hillside has 99 springs, is the embodiment of 99 dragons……这种说法虽有神秘的色彩,但从某种角度It shows that the underground river volute in the source area of Wujiang RiverIt is a good place to conserve waterIn that sense, thoughStone jar cave有幸被定为乌江源,但应该说这There's a whole swathe of land that belongs to the source, which means, though, there's moreStone jar caveLonger sources, but unfortunately those sources are short of a relatively stable flow at the end of the well, so that the source conditions are not sufficient。

作为乌江之源的Stone jar cave,由于自清朝咸丰7 years (1857) to 1970, due to geological reasons dry water, so has not attracted people's attention, it人们的淡忘中Pass the hundredyears。The source, however, always seems to be natural, just like a seed planted in the ground, always take root and germinate。但是如果没有后面的一次又一次,没有那些乌江追随者的执著与深情,Stone jar cave或许也只Be a梦的源头,在历史的孤寂中默默地穿行。

While originally搅动Stone jar cave粼粼波光And make itThe source of the Qianli Wujiang River is a little-known old man, whose名字叫汪育江,原Sinan County cultural relics management director。On June 1, 1990, he led two young assistants顺乌江寻源而上Through the exploration interview, the source of the Wujiang River was found for the first time in the stone jar hole, thus rewritten《贵州省志· Buried records"The main stream of the Wujiang River is the Sancha River, and the source of the Wujiang River is in the Censer Mountain"。Unfortunately, I don't know why there was no inscription, leaving a lot of regrets。自此以后,Yangtze Normal University former Fuling teachers College19908月,20007Two trips to Wujiang River were organized。且为Wujiang source留下了“千里Wujiang River Ride”,“Suck Wujiang's aura, report Wujiang's grace,保护乌江世代不息Two stone tablets, which is probably the source of the Wujiang Riverprimary文字记载May 2001, Zhujiang Guizhou section and Wujiang River ecological line news interview group也在此立有一碑。The three stone tablets not only bear witness to people's difficulty in thinking about the source of drinking water, but also reflect their concern for nature, ecology, history, culture and other aspects。

从源头Stone jar cave沿溪流Below, about 100 meters, there are two eyes hole spring, north spring name flower fish hole, south spring name black fish hole。The two caves are named for the flower fish and black fish that grow in them。在过去,每年桃花盛开的月Starry night, the fish end to end, fromFollowing stream下,The water is clear to the bottomThe river in the free穿梭。But now,从涌出的泉水中We have不到黑鱼和花鱼了Some people say黑鱼It's a fish that's all black,花鱼就是It's a fish covered in patterns, and someone else saysBlackfish is not black, flower fish is not flower。们因此黑鱼和花鱼究竟啥模样,我们不得而知

In the view of the ancients, the cave is the gateway to life, water is the source of life, this concept is female性崇拜的遗存,It still affects People's Daily life。比如,In the Wujiangyuan area, every lunar yearOn September 19, the villagers asked the "Guanyin Temple" next to the stone jar hole to hang flags in front of the table。The "temple", as the locals call it, is nothing but a Buddhist niche built with three slabs of stone。Although "temple" is simple, but the heart must not be faithless。庙前的供桌上,There are offerings, instruments and scriptures。The scriptures integrate the various sages of Confucianism, Buddhism and Taoism, and are worshipped as Buddhas and Bodhisattvas。During the chanting, a monk wearing a monk's robe or playingConch or敲打锣鼓或画符或叩拜。Throughout the worship,各家各户的女主人要轮流到观音像前上香、叩头、祭奠一番,之后,法师后用瓜瓢舀一井水Put it in a clay pot in the villageThe ceremony of passing water and praying for blessings was held。如果我们Think of the symbol of the female vagina in the matriarchal society, it is not difficult to solve this mystery: the beginning people at that time commonly used“洞”作为female阴户,将水作为女人经水,And the gourd is like a woman's uterus, people井洞中用瓜瓢舀水并在村中传递象征The birth of manAnd endless life, also expressed人与水的生命连接。Yes, in the source of the Wujiang River stone tank cave, flower fish cave, black fish cave and endlessFlow outward的泉水,不正是像一位母亲,孕育nourish黔渝46个县市的良田沃土、芸芸众生生担当The original width of Wujiang's life么?

我想,这个宽度,In usInadvertent look back, and inadvertent trek, thousands of miles of back定会Thousands of miles away over and over again从我们的记忆In the hole of,又从我们的心灵The four walls ofFlow, and look forward to usFar away流去。It is a symbol that feeds our land, it is a feeling of stirring one's own blood, and it is also a dream that is both clear and ethereal

 

草海:黑颈鹤之乡

 

From the source of the Wujiang River stone cave return, we come到了威宁县城

威宁威镇安宁之意,其The city was built on a group of hills, high and densely populated,历来就是川滇要道上的重镇太阳神庇护下,被气象学界Named afterYangoIs Guizhou ProvinceEthnic, Hui, Miao main settlement根据史料记载,彝族属氐羌民族的一支,原生活在我国西北Today, Gansu, Qing, Sichuan, Shaanxi and the vast area of western Yunnan, about BC5世纪族系的一支向向西南游弋,经云南四川迁入贵州西北威宁地区,形成彝族。稍后,During the Qin and Han Dynasties, in order to avoid the disaster of war,部分“三苗”遗众Forced from Wuling Wuxi area from east to west, deep into the heart of the Wumeng Mountains, in the Five dynasties and Ten kingdoms into Weining,They lived in the territory of the Uza chieftain and the land of the soil形成苗族;At the end of the Southern Song Dynasty, the Mongolian army entered Yunnan and marched south with themThe Islamic Western Regions are pro-military“回回”人元初在滇东北及Northwest Guizhou一带屯田,来到贵州威宁一带,形成回族。三个主体少数民族In the long course of historical development,Brew Weining primitive and simple nation民间文化和Rich and mellow ethnic customs, unique多彩The tone of乐舞彝族的火把节歌舞阿西里西古戏“Chutegi”"Bimo" culture;HuiEid al-Adha和穆斯林文化;苗族花山节等。

2007年夏日,贵阳Be held by"Colorful Guizhou" dance competition,我观看了Chutegi”的演出过程,From ancient times, from the long growth of man, from the high air of wisdom and courage,Let me wander in the tunnel of time and space千年

The next day, we went to Caohai。

When I was young, in the tireless narration of adults, Caohai, a mystery that can not be explained has long condensed into a deep longing in my young heart。

草海位于贵州西部的威宁彝族回族苗族自治县县城西南隅,是以高原湿地生态系统和珍稀鸟类为主的综合性国家级自然Protected area,与青海湖、滇池同为中国三大高原湖,也Is Guizhou Province最大的天然淡水湖泊。早在15Ten thousand years agoCaohai has been formed, experienced the historical changes, still like a bright pearl, shining on the Guizhou plateau。

我们来时,正是春天,高原的风把崭新的承诺兑现给草海时,No matter what山山岭岭的杜鹃花,还是村庄农舍边的桃花、杏花、梨花,也竞相绽放,将沉寂了一季的心事毫无保留地在草海四周一一展开,仿佛是一场盛大的时装表演。Caohai at this time, the original simple appearance, under the care of flowers, spit incense, implying elegance。In the spring breeze and flowers, in细语呢喃的温情中,我们摇一叶扁舟,划一根竹蒿,飘进了草海那宽阔的水域。

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阳光下,万顷碧波像少女胸前的翡翠,透着温润,散着芬芳;清澈的湖面上,那些开着一朵朵、一串串、一片片的黄花、红花和白花,还有Cauliflower, reed, bulrush, scallion, purple duckweed, goldfish以及各种不知名的水草,静黔水中,就像绵延的思念。船行其中,Water rippling, green grass gentle;Swaying silk grass, green as a blanket。好一幅如诗似梦的画

The boat slowly moved forward into the middle of the grass sea。虽然草海非真正的海,只Be a岩溶堰塞formative淡水湖,但置身草海,那种水天相连、烟波迷蒙的景象,就让人感觉是在茫茫的大海上穿行,美妙无比。But it is different from the beauty of the sea,草海之美,在于Unique to its beauty, the open water,青山环抱,林木簇拥。东南面,六洞桥长堤卧波,西海水域,阳关山苍然突兀。登山尽可观,游亦可见山,可谓中有,水中有山

Caohai is a paradise for birds, a paradise for birds。Black-necked crane, golden eagle, black crane, white-tailed eagle灰鹤、白鹭、鸳鸯And wild geese and ducks, the spirits of the sea of grass,形态各异,羽毛斑。一群群地聚在Under the blue sky, above the lake,嬉戏追逐,Or neck-and-neck, or pulse-eye contact, or展翅翱翔,Or sing, the quiet air from time to time from the birds in response to each other's murmurs。

各种鸟类中,有着“鸟中大熊猫”之称的黑颈鹤最为珍贵,它是世界上迄今所发现的15种鹤中唯一生活在高原上的鹤类,也是科学上记载最晚的一种鹤,全球仅存7000余只。Among them are black-necked cranes that spend the winter in Caohai every year400多只。"The crane crowing in Jiugao, the sound in the wild;Crane singing in the nine Gao, the sound in the sky ", in the grass sea watching crane dance, listen to crane singing, is a very comfortable thing。Graceful black-necked crane, standing graceful, dancing if fairy, dignified behavior, hovering in the blue sky, crane sound crisp and long……So much so that I wish I was also a crane, singing and dancing freely in this charming natural environment。于是,我想,这些黑颈The cranes have taken the trouble to fly here from Japan, India, Bhutan and other directions, which can not be explained by a simple escape from the cold。Their leisurely life and comfortable flying are not the peach garden world that we human beings are pursuing today?

撑船的大姐告诉我们,Local people连小孩都非常爱护草海,爱护生活在草海中的一百多种鸟类,因此,草海里不允许机动船出入,也不准任何人伤害鸟类。After hearing this, I was moved for a while, over the years, many places have advocated"Harmony between man and nature", harmonious coexistence with nature, the construction of the so-called harmonious society, but only in Caohai, I saw this real sense of harmony。

Wayan also told us that if we were lucky, at sunset, we could see the spectacular scene of thousands of birds flying in the clouds in Caohai。A writer once described the situation as follows:

The golden glow of the sunset falls on the plateau lake, the clouds are gorgeous, and the distant mountains are in the haze of the misty water。Birds sing one after another, the water is lively, fishing boats are invited to return, birds in the air。Birds fly grass sea, crane dance grass sea east, geese fly grass Hainan, heron play grass sea west, storks singing grass sea north...The evening wind blew slowly, the ship rowed slowly, sailing to the distant sunset, the golden waves stretched to the horizon, facing the flow of people, people's shoulders, also fell on the soft glory。Go deeper, go deeper into the grass sea, and the birds, one after another, take flight and hide away even further...

With poetic language and artistic conception, it depicts a picture for us人鸟自然和谐Picture of。是的,大自然是神奇美丽的,它给我们留下Mountains and rivers, rare birds and exotic animals……让We have a description.不完的美景,唱不's paean。However, behind the beautiful scenery and songs of praise, I think we know more about respect, respect for nature, respect for life。著名的环保专家利奥波特提出:大地伦理的影响Rooted in fertile soil, breathing nature, maintaining the strongest affinity with the land, and living in harmony with rivers, vegetation, and animals is the true richness of life。

威宁草海宽又宽,

四面八方都是山。

郎是青山不会老,

妹是海水不会干。

A love song of the sea of grass that has been handed down from the hands of no one knows when岸边夹杂着洋竽的香甜味在空旷的湖面上飘荡。

 

Liupanshui:中国凉都

 

Along the southern source of Wujiang Sancha River, from the town of Dawan below, the southern source of Wujiang River entered有着“江南煤海”Liupanshui City, known as "China's cool capital"。

在印象中,我敢肯定Located in the hinterland of Wumeng MountainLiupanshui City should be the most in the west of GuizhouRich place, because Guizhou has no place一个地方能With such abundant coal resources。More thanMine, and铁矿、铅锌。在The last century80~For several years in the '90s,在Liupanshui矿山周围就有Many of the peasants have joined the mining army, and they will get what they wantIron lead zincFor ore箩筐It was loaded down the mine and storedIn the temporary rented wooden houses by the river, he would store enough quantities and sell them by the pound to the merchants who collected the ore, and then go home。他们Ragged clothes,面色黝黑,Pick out the same old clothes as they are箩筐Winding along the ridge, disappearing into the mountains后面。如果If you think of them as a bunch of down-and-out scavenger based on their appearance, you're wrong他们轻巧快捷的步履中,你就知道,How easy and free they live, in their baskets, in their dirty woven bands,No longer bulging with heavy ore, but a匝匝's Cash。 于是Among them, many young people have no time to take it offplantarLiberation shoes, hastily pulled on a wrinkled suitTo Liupanshui, Guiyang and other cities to buy real estate, cars……

At the same time, in the impression, due to the large amount of coal and lead and zinc mining, Liupanshui is very likely to be a city with extremely poor health conditions, everywhere是刺耳的机器轰鸣声,漫天飘浮着黑色粉尘颗粒,污浊的空气The unrecognizable landscape and the water quality with high fluoride content……

然而当我We driveWhen entering Liupanshui city, it is spacious明亮The streets,立的高楼清新干净Of the air,It changed my mind all at once“Liupanshui”The view of。虽说The city is not as rich and as imaginedBustling, but绝对不Be a卫生条件差而又杂乱Place that...。

Liupanshui市名由六枝、盘县、水城三个特区的头一个字组成。Liupanshui文化底蕴深厚,An important habitat for prehistoric humansThere are盘县大洞”,水城Ash cave”,六枝Peach Blossom Cave”等记载人类起源、进化和环境演变的古人类文化遗址;Liupanshui is the original area of ancient Yelang civilization,There are many relics of Yelang culture and folklore;Liupanshui民族风情绚烂多彩Han, Yi, Miao, Bai, Hui and so onThe splendid folk customs and folk culture of more than 30 ethnic groups are like pearls inlaid in this land of Mongolia。especially梭嗄长角苗风情、彝家的水拌酒isometric让人流连忘返……

Liupanshui有着迷人的自然资源由于Under the influence of the uplift of the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau, the land has been raised strongly, the rivers have cut sharply, and the plateau has been damaged, forming a magnificent mountain landscape and breathtaking gorges。境内群峰耸峙,气势磅礴,河流深切,植被繁茂,尤其是石灰岩广泛分布,在山原地貌基础上又迭加发育了各时期各类型的喀斯特地貌,景观十分奇特而多变,堪称喀斯特地质博物馆。市内最高处海拔Chives Ping, 2900 meters high, is the highest peak in Guizhou Province人称“贵州屋脊”The lowest point is Maokou elevation in the Beipanjiang River Valley586米。

The climate of Liupanshui City is vertically distributed according to the altitude.The climate in the territory belongs to the North subtropical monsoon humid climate area, no hot summer, no cold winter, plenty of sunshine, abundant rainfall。Liupanshui的整体气温变化幅度非常小,常年平均气温12.315.2。在全省气温最高的In July and August, the average daily temperature is 19.8,山里的温度更低。therefore可以这样说,在Liupanshui,过了春天就是秋天。If you do not want to endure the crowded crowds and high costs of tourist areas, to find a balanced temperature, wet and not hot summer place, then Liupanshui should be one of the first choices。

如果单从This list of information and data来说,Whether it's natural, whether it's cultural,Liupanshui都可Be worthy of“乌蒙之巅”了。因此,自然人文Ecotourism is a major advantage of Liupanshui tourism。In Yushe National Forest Park and天生桥旅游风景区,我们领略到了Liupanshui的魅力,只觉整个LiupanshuiJust like a big natural air conditioner, the air is refreshing, making people feel quiet, fragrant and cool in the most sultry time at noon and at night。

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LiupanshuiBe a花的世界Not only on the sides and in the middle of the streetFlowers bloom all year roundAnd the streets are full of shops selling flowers。因为毗邻云南,The variety of flowers here is a little confusing,知名的与不知名的,贵重的与不贵重的加起来就有百多种,每种花材有着不同的象征意义,在不同的场合应该送什么样的花是十分讲究的。In order to facilitate customers, Liupanshui has a number of flower nets, you只要打开电脑,下好订单,Someone will be there for you in no time。

当然,在Liupanshui,最动心的还是kerbside吃。

Because Liupanshui is rich in potatoes, managing potato snacksSell more。漫步在大街上,街道两侧,那些用各种花样做出来的土豆小吃夹杂着葱香的味道游离在urban上空,远远地向你袭来,让你抵挡不住那金黄色的Confused, involuntarily go to buy one or two bowls。I think potatoesLove alone钟的。在远Childhood, vaguely dream is full of poverty and desolate, only the simple potatoes, floating a touch of fragrance, meals with me, do not abandon, along the way……

吃在Liupanshui,最值得一提的烙锅被称“西部一绝”

Eat cautery pot时,众人围成一桌坐定之后,店家Each handOne blue floral cuff and one gingham apron,以防煎炒time-pot油点On the clothesPut a pan in the hollow place on the table, and put vegetable oil when eating, until the oil temperature rises,粉条、Yams, stinky tofu, meat and all kinds of vegetables are put onPan fry大家在亲切的炒菜声中While drinking beer, while eating vegetables, one边聊着天Well, drink four to feel good。

其它小吃如盘县荷叶糯米鸡、怪噜粉,水城的羊肉粉、豆豉火锅、Rice tofuGinger tea, six-branch casserole rice noodles, screw chicken等特色小吃,风味各异,亦Such as Liupanshui scenery, meticulous and unique, in游客的心中留下无delightfully回忆

无论走进哪一座城市,There is a landscape can not be less, that is the girl。urban一道风景,她们装饰The city, at the same time decorated with our dreams。They are a symbol of the city,反映The city's past, present and futureThe natural environment and the human environment

一方水土养一方人。在过去,由于地质煤层和工业排污的影响,Liupanshui女孩大多Rough skin、色泽灰暗和泛青Teeth with undisguised fluorine spots (commonly known as yellow die),Now it seems that the new generation of girls in Liupanshui has changed, the skin color of their facesNot to speak of净白如雪But it has光泽细腻And fewer girls have fluoridated teeth。

When we stepped out of the snack bar,在贴着红对联的门,一个美丽的LiupanshuiThe woman suddenly burst into my field of vision, she seemed to have a sweet grudge, a happy melancholy, she should be a woman in love for the first time, her expression has a touch不开的青涩。I believe, only one peach blossomShe would walk into the poems of Tang Dynasty poet Cui Hu。

 

夜郎湖:高原三峡

 

From the Dongdi township of Shuicheng County, Liupanshui City, the water volume gradually increased when Wujiang South source passed Pingzhai Village, Niuchang Township, Liupanzhi Special Zone。平寨,这个与它名字一样平平常常的小村寨却因为Total investment60亿元的The construction of Qianzhong water conservancy project has become unusual。

The mountains reflect the clear water, the water embraces the mountains,Soon, there will be one here162米的高坝,形成10亿立方米的高峡平湖。站在高山上,A gentle breeze is blowing.I seem to see, the vast湖湾伸进寨村,炊烟袅袅,湖光山色,Live here当如仙界

It is said thatSet irrigation, power generation, urban water supply, industrial water as one of the calledThe largest water conservancy project in the history of Guizhou will通过More than 500 kilometers of trunk canals, pipelines to Wujiang water源源不断地汇入贵阳安顺,黔南等地,解决沿途工农业生产和城市用水,润泽广袤的黔中大地。滚滚乌江,At thatUnyielding to break the mountain,在峡谷Day and night to the front, multiply滋润cross-strait生灵和文明

Forked river在高崖巉岩间奋力穿越In entering普定县境内以后With the construction of the Puding power station,形成A 42-kilometre, two-kilometre lake at its widest,称为夜郎湖。

Yelang Lake was originally called Sosai Lake, and in the local Miao language, Sosai means a beautiful place。From the air, among the mountains, the lake looks like a尊大Buddha, Boyu River and Machang River are his two legs, and the original Sancha River, as the most open part of the lake, is肚皮。In this way, Yelang Lake became the east head pillow shuttleDam, legs stretch west, lying on his back and sleeping Buddha。However, some people say that Yelang Lake is universal肺叶说来也怪,Since this肺叶After stretching out in the mountains, the massive hail that Puding often encountered decreased, and the climate became warmer and wetterIt has also become an important source of drinking water for the city。我想这大概与周围生态环境的逐渐好转有关吧。

夜郎湖水域分布有More than 100 islands and peninsulasBay of Wo Lake两岸高山对峙,原始植被、草山草甸和湖光山色融为一体,plateau“三峡”,

Take a boat ride on Yelang Lake,Sanmenxia”、“Jianmen Gorge”、“Rimun GorgeTiger Leaping Gorge穿洞古人类遗址”…… 以及村庄、田野、林、草滩And the ones that fly off and land on the meadow白鹤,It's an intoxicating sight水墨Fly into one's face。

When we came, it was the season of rapeseed flowers,From the water at the foot of the mountain to the top,层层叠叠,顺着地势蜿蜒伸延,构成了立体多层起伏跌宕Picture of。远观It was as if every hill was covered with one金黄色的挂毯,Close up, it looks like a Dai girl wearing a tube skirt,让人赏心悦目。

On the return journey弃船湖泊的南I went to a Miao village called Duemenzhai眼前Pink peach trees, whiteFlowers dotted in the mountains of golden rapeseed flowers, cover the walls of black tiles's farmhouse,构成A beautiful picture of the countryside。So that everyone who escapes the city can find a home。Stay at the farmer's house at night, cook a pot of mellow rice wine, fry two ordinary dishes, ten yuan can be put自己带到A paradise。

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After the Miao village,lakeshore步两个多钟头,船。Under a flying giant bat-like rock, a hundredA metre-wide mountain bay appeared before my eyes。弓形的山弯,前抵湖,后抵岩,左右也是高岩耸立。But in the middle of the mountains, there was a hut with a faintly mottled moss on the roof。主告诉我们In summer屋里飘出缕缕炊烟,大概是那些城头Come here for some peace。

寻求清净?oppidan?是啊,在城市,I've seen enough of steel and concrete all around高楼The sky is always gray, breathing the turbid air every day, listening to the city enoughThe noise is very loudWhen we escape from all this, under this blue sky, the floating white clouds, the green mountains, the white plum flowers, and pieces of golden rape flowers, blend in here……Close eyesFeel the warm sunshine on your body, gently blowing the spring breeze of Hexi,Who says so?不会清静?It's not like living in the eyes of the literatiA paradise”呢?

于是我想到,More and moreCrowded, increasingly tired society中,我们时常感到孤独、压力,时常被一些人情世故,功名利禄所烦恼。So, looking for the possibility of some kind of pure and transparent existence,我们As a hiker, marching towards the other side of the clear water and blue sky, looking forward to losing those who have no hope of existence, and find a path at the intersection of nature and soul。于是,我们进入夜郎湖区在人群之外寻找那些还不曾庸俗社会Submerged purity and transparency...And for that, I admire some people, for example, for their enjoyment of life. Yesbiotic态度。但是我知道,In order to一个有开发痕迹Place that...Find the pure breath of nature and the original culture内容,那只能是一厢情愿的奢望。

可不是么?在湖berthing似曾相识的貌似古色古香的“山庄”里,我们observed是茶室、酒吧、会所等以及房间里那些麻将纸牌,杯盘狼籍觥筹交错,所以,即使远离都市,On this holy water, on the lake, unconsciously, it seems impossible for us to escape the fate of this worldly life。

Nocturnal eclipseStaying at Kumho Mountain Resort beside Yelang Lake。饭后独步湖畔,四面寂静无声,Now and then菜花香袭来。的深处,The stars came out one by one, and at last they were bustlingBe reflected inThe green lakeIt's like a light on a lake。

Farewell to the blue water such as mirrors and sentimental Yelang Lake, after more than two hours of trek, we came to Puding County。

Puding County divided into new, old two, in order to touch a little cultural atmosphere, we only to the old city。

老城位于东华山下,有两条东西向的直通街,其中一条由中大街和豆腐街组成,一条由曹家街和打铁街组成,两条均以十字街划分街界,十字街为南北走向,因与东西向的十字交叉,故名,这三条街道,构成了普定老城。

30Years ago, the old city was the most prosperous place in Puding, although the metabolism, the old city quite decadent and desolate, but the old city retained the historical context, it is the new street can not be replaced。

In the early Ming Dynasty, the establishment of Weisujun Tun brought large-scale Jiangnan immigrants to Puding, and the old street of Puding was the Tun fort of that year, named Dingnan。关于“定南”,据说是因为Zhu Yuanzhang划定大明疆域when,其版图延展到普定This placeNamed after大明定南所”。Up to now, Donghua Mountain still retains the early Ming period “大明定南所 的摩崖石刻。

也许老城老了,人们不忍心让它老下去,起初,便从外面弄来些石板,把中大街、豆腐街和十字街的道路进行平整、翻新,并把中大街唤作“石板街”。The old town finally changed into an old but decent dress, and the whole face appeared much more energetic。Later, some night markets moved to the new street one after another, which gathered some popularity for the old city that had been neglected for a long time。再后来,老街也不像老街了,那些老的东西正逐渐的消失,原本雕梁画栋的木楼、飞檐翘角的封火墙、精工雕琢的石牌和磉凳慢慢的消失在人们的视野之外了……


Pingba: Sna River and Tianlong Tunpu


vernal黔中大地Just as colorful and colorful, all flowers bloom。

Various fields花争奇斗妍之时,黔中大地上一望无际的油菜花也呈现在了人们的面前。

从普定县城出发,沿Provincial Route 209, both waysHill terrace,到处Are endless rapeseed flowers, reflecting the yellow skyIn the spring breeze, the golden rapeseed flowers spread layer upon layer波浪And swung over this way and came over that way,满山遍野There is a dynamic beautyAlong the way, there are fragrant cauliflower company, unconsciously, we came to be calledPingba of "the granary of Guizhou"。

Pingba County is a hundred springs of the city, has been called Xu Xiake“圣泉”之泉水,以圣泉水酿制平坝窖酒The color of the wine is clear and transparent, the entrance is elegant, the wine body is mellow, and the aftertaste is long and lingering加之价格优惠而备Ordinary people青睐。因此,平坝留给我primary印象是平坝窖酒。 

Reach pingbaCounty, it is two o 'clock in the afternoon, after a circle around the county seat, then non-stop趋车离县城37公里处的Sra景区。

Sra是大自然对平坝人的慷慨馈赠。Whole length32.9公里From southwest to northeast through the Fenghuang Mountain Dayunpo Mountains, by Pingba Leping Township entry, a total11 tributaries, containing huge water resources。Therefore, with the wisdom of Pingba people, with the help of the east wind of the western development, an installed capacity of 360,000 kilowatts of Yinzidu power station was built here。

The completion of the Yinzidu power station makes the Sra RiverherePool into一个水面为17.9 square kilometers of plateau lake

泛舟SraIn the canyon两岸The peaks are jagged, sagging, waterfalls and springs, and the bamboo forest is quietFacing the fresh breeze, feel refreshed。群山峡谷之间I can only hear the song of birds in the sky and cicadas singing in the valley,Beautiful cross-strait风光,Rolling along30公里的河段内向你展现着它那饱含媚抚的风姿,向你低诉着万语千言的故事。

在高耸的大壁画前驻足片刻,首先你将看到那“屈低咏”的壁画。On the screen,屈原《离骚》,坐非似行非行,他佝偻的身躯饱经磨难,面对国破山河愤世嫉俗、Gao sighed at the death of the country……大壁画的中部还有“石板寨古巷口”。那重叠的石板房之间,其幽深的古巷里,似乎走动着屯堡's private或者布衣族的先民,显现出一派热闹和繁忙的景象。

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Let the boat sail the clear waves, and the scenery is with the ship:沿途cross-straitStrange rocks and stonesThe spirit of nature's life flows everywhere,让人Have a thousand thoughts!Facing the cool breeze, wandering for a long time in the depths of the canyon, the waterway in front of you suddenly opened up往左看,有一峥嵘的群峰:高大雄伟峻拔,直青天,气宇轩昂。This isSra峡谷中著名的景点“Giant Buddha Statue”。Giant Buddha StatueStanding on a cliff on the east bank of the Sra River Gorge, it faces the Taohua Village across the lake。It faces the emerald lake,突兀耸立,圆头直身。那睿智翕合的双眼、它那Smiling lips, and Leshan Buddha haveThe only difference is this big Buddha乃自然天成。我惊叹于大自然的The heavens set them and the earth made them之妙时,不由得羡慕平坝人有此造化,有此 “缘”,平坝人有福了。此情此景,I can't help but hold it in my handDV将此情此景全部拍录在记忆的最深处。

Sra River, the mature beautiful woman in the mountain area, the shy village girl, shows a simple, simple, natural beauty。In its upper reaches, most of the river is sandwiched between the green hills on both sides, like an endless gallery。Its running water and the birds of the hollow valley,The natural sounds and symphonies played day and night make people enchanted and have endless aftertastes。In a boat on the river, there seems to be no boundary between heaven and earth, fish play on the hills, birds fly on the bottom, sitting in a boat, and don't know themselves是在水中还是在天上,周围一切都是绿的,绿得使人心醉,唯独河道Far away,不时荡漾着蓝蓝的氤氲,神秘的引诱着你,召唤着你,让你产生无限的遐想……

After turning over numerous mountain beams, came to the entrance of the dam, the center of the steep cliff, the great green spring from the shy convex boulder flying, weaving into a scene of pearl-like tent, although there is no“银河落九天”之势,却别有一番谲奇雄壮之美。

Abandon ship from the dam and climb up the steep service roadHigh point of district。从这里放眼眺望,Under the dam area is a few hundred meters high canyon, the bottom of a clear mountain stream like crystal jade belt winding in the canyon, all the way singing shallow singing。而在谷底之上,The DAMS that connect the ridges of the banks act as iron locks, locking in the water and turning it into electricity。

The construction of Yinzidu Power Station is a witness of the implementation of the western development in central Guizhou。而把目光再上溯到更久远The history of长河中,我们还可以清晰地看到,引子渡所在的平坝县,其实记录着贵州开发The history of轨迹,formed特有的屯堡文化。。

In search of history, we came to Tianlong Tunpu, located in central Pingba County。

Stone roofs and stone houses,

Stone streets, stone walls,

The stone's mill, the stone's mill,

石头的碓窝石头的缸。

首民谣正It is the true portrayal of Tianlong Tunbao。When we walked into the ancient village of Tianlong Tunpu, what we saw was different and scattered石板建筑。From the appearance, Tianlong Tunpu is a kind of solid house built with irregular stones of different sizes and certain square shapes.Like fortresses,600Over the years一直在此反映着大明王朝的盛况。

The building appearance of Tianlong Tunpu house pays great attention to aesthetics。In the overall shape of the stone house, according to the natural environment, productivity and economic level, to create a unique simple geometric beauty。In the interior and exterior structure of the stone house decoration,Due to the use of a combination of materials of different sizes,很有肌理美,Irregular rectangular, diamond-shaped, triangular and polygonal stone blocks and pebble masonry combinations of round tables;There are patterns carved into the gabled stone mortises of the stone houses,有的是龙形、兽形,有的花卉纹样,给人以古朴典雅,素净恬淡的艺术享受。

极目远眺,整个The village stone houses are built on top of each other and near the mountain. The layout adopts the method of combining the central axis division layout and the point and line division layout.The central air of the village 埧 is a point, radiating outward and criss-crossing巷道,这些石房Divided into pieces, constituteA whole combination of points, lines and surfaces。寨中央有一条约有两米的水道穿流而过,两岸每50There are stone Bridges connected by meters, and willows green on the shore,If the architectural style of Jiangnan water town。

打开明代江淮移民贵州的路线图,它从湘黔边界横越贵州中部,直达云南,沿线分布了众多军屯驿站,天龙屯堡就位于这条路线的中心区域,这条自东向西的大陆交通线,实际上就Is Guizhou ProvinceThe artery of 600 years of development。

Time back to the Ming Dynasty, when Zhu Yuanzhang founded the country, there was still unrest in the southwest border area of Yunnan, in order to stabilize the situation, Guizhou bordering Yunnan is an important stronghold。In the early Ming Dynasty, the emperors sent a large number of soldiers to settle in Guizhou600年。Today, Tunpu people have taken root in Guizhou and become an ethnic group with a unique historical background。天龙,便It is one of the famous Tunpu people's residences in Guizhou。

如今,屯堡妇女的装扮独具个性凤头发髻、大袖、绑腿,沿袭了明清江南汉族服饰的特征;屯堡Man's play is primitive and rough, reflecting the war vividlyThe food of the Tunpu people is easy to store and collect for a long time, following the characteristics of the long-term war supplies of the ancient army……所有这些都It shows the martial spirit of the descendants of these military towns

Pingba Tianlong Village is one of the most representative places of the whole Tunpu culture. It is the east gate of Tunpu culture.In addition to villages dominated by stone houses,始建于明万历18Year (AD)1590年),集佛、The Trinity of Five Dragon Temple on Tiantai Mountain,Be praised as“石头建筑的绝唱”。

五龙寺雄踞于Tiantai Mountain石峰之上,The site is surrounded by cliffs on three sides, with only one side for people to enter and exit。其中There is a cliff of the mountain, from the top of a big crack, the crack is man-made with stone bricks firmly built up, in order to firmly support the temple above。那样陡直的山壁上,下面没有任何可借力的支撑,不知道古人是怎样把裂缝补上的,而且Went through这么多年的风吹雨打后还和周围的山石一样巍然不动。Let us have to admire the wisdom of the ancients。

The Five Dragon Temple is not big, but it is imposing。远看之,Like a mirage flying in the sky, far and wide, standing on the green trees, misty in the clouds。Up close,The halls, halls, buildings and pavilions of the Five Dragon Temple are scattered and harmonious. All the roofs are covered by blue and gray tiles, embored peach-shaped tiles adorn the eaves, and the beams and columns are round and straight.雕梁画栋窗棂镂花,很是古朴精美屋顶上的龙和凤,凝固着、静默着,Went through多少风风雨雨,日月轮回,日复一日的在香火缭绕中,不知是否已脱去石胎修成精魄,会在入夜后寂静的山间悠游……

 

乌江北源:Gulong Jing与Cambric church

 

乌江北源是一口恬静、淡泊的井。

On the left of the branch road from Ma (Gu) Ke (Le) in Hezhang County拐,At the intersection of the Coke and the auxiliary section, the slag Luochong is shaped like a bun extending from the direction of the auxiliary section头被The locals callFairy water beamAt the foot of the mountain, we saw the well。

Local people介绍,这乌江北源Original coupleWell, one big and one small, a big on the left, a clear spring, a small on the right, has been buried by earth and stone, but there is still water seepage。This is Fuchue Township Xingwang Village,A Yi village, the locals call it Gulongjing。

龙井水量Small, but it清亮透明。在Northwest Guizhou,A poetry critic once praised the poems of a Yi poetess"The sound of flowers, transparent water", andLongjing this transparent water,就如一首诗生动的开头Along ditch涓涓细流,转,坎坎坷坷,以执和宽容将每一滴水都汇在一起,流淌成则姑河Hezhe RiverABU ChaungLiuchong RiverLong and short sentences, finally surgingunify名叫乌江的Heroic poem

龙井被Local peopleThe well was lined with rough stone and hidden in一簇红籽称为“救”的荆棘中。Up the back slope裸露的黄土零星的生长着一些矮矮的灌木丛和一些青冈木Class of miscellaneous trees。河沟的两边,则有The erect Yunnan poplar, the vigorous walnut,密集的滇杨核桃林中,Be known only as“兴旺”的彝族村落。兴旺全村的人祖祖辈辈就依靠龙井的水生活,故龙井Worshipped by them as gods, never dared to desecrate。Also said, this well often swim out of colorful fish, its delicious, but dare not catch light to the well to eat it, to wait for it to swim to the front of the river ditch, can call taste。

I peered into the well curiously, but空寂,Apart from water,并没有看到鱼的踪Looking further into the depths of the well, the shadow seemed to swim with several light bodies。看来,我与传说中的五彩Have nothing to do withHave met

Near the gurgling spring, there is a white egg, very dazzling。那是Local people习俗,逢年过节时祭祀龙井的品。千百年来So the well shook for years,装满着祈福和祝愿,默默地养一方土,育一方人

在乌江北源,我不得不提到一个叫葛布的苗族村寨。Gulong JingThe mountain on the back lies between the cloth and the auxiliary,Be called葛布梁子正如许多名胜因胶着上人文色彩而名播四海一样。Gebu, this Miao village near the source of the Wujiang River, also owes its fame to a century-old foreign churchBe well known

在道教、儒教没能越过的重重山岭,天主教、基督教却通过传教士的双脚,在百多年前把上帝的福音传播到了乌江的源区,进入了最隐秘的乌蒙的深处。

Cambric churchIt is the symbol and material manifestation of this Gospel。

Cambric church1905年(清光绪31)An English missionary named Dang Juren came to build it,是近代One of the largest churches in Guizhou,礼拜堂可容纳千与柏格里的威宁石门坎教堂相比,葛布的名气虽然They are smaller, but together they constitute a fusion of foreign culture and local culture"Stone gate sill -- cloth"苗族Cultural phenomenon

The Hmong are a people who have had a tragic fate for thousands of years, like the Jews who lost their homeland, were displaced several times, were driven out by war,Therefore, it is at the lowest level in modern Chinese society。自Tang and five Dynasties开始,苗族因受到异族攻打便迁往西南高山地方,进入Northwest Guizhou威宁、赫章彝族地区后完全向彝族奴隶主投靠。The Miao who entered the area of the Yi chieftain took the chieftain as their protection umbrella, but they became the property of the chieftain slaveholders, who could dispose of them at will or even seize their lives.Such as the Yi nationality奴隶主嫁女时,苗族的青年男女成了陪嫁的财产During the Yongzheng period of Qing Dynasty, the Central Dynasty reformed the land of Wusa and WumengAlthough the force of the Yi chieftain was destroyed, it did not shake the local forces of the Yi chieftain, which continued until the end of the Qing Dynasty, between the Miao people and the Tumu under the Tumu仍然It was the relationship between serfs and serf ownersIn this context,广大In their misery, the people long for something new“救世主”,而天主教的"God of heaven and earth, Lord God and Lord of all things."的信条以及采取的一些医疗、教育等慈善手段No doubt brought spiritual relief to the Miao people。

montaneCambric churchStanding on a high hill surrounded by green pines in a stockade, compared with the low, dilapidated houses around it,Stand outCambric church的Building materialIt was all taken on the spot, with dark green tiles on top of logs, pale limestone walls, and small blue brick Windows……没有鎏金镶银,没有浮雕壁画,朴素如山民The years of,朴Plain and elegant;Different from the local houses, it is probably the chimney towering on the roof and the closet built in the wall, as well as the Western-style fireplace with an aristocratic atmosphere。

Over a hundred years ago, after the church was builtThe British couple Dang Juren and Esme在此Missionary tower12年轻的Eism,甚至将她美丽的青春连同生命一起葬送于这块异域的土地上,魂散In this Wujiang River源头。

"Life is like running water, once gone, never to return."而今,走入教堂,Everything looked old and decadent,Freehand out of the empty cold。Linger in那斑驳的回廊Step on thatsmoothBluestone path,不禁Ancient meditationSuddenly, it seemed that this picture appeared before my eyes:在山月初照的夜晚,远山一片苍莽,对面的松林间响起苗族同胞的木叶声,应和着山下的潺潺流水;年轻的Eism轻轻地打开后门,立在回廊之上。She stood in silhouette in her long dress to the ground, and let the flickering fire in the fireplace reflect her youthful face;Her blue eyes were deep and wandering, as if she were longing for relatives far away?Or in the touch of Jesus……

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It is said that shortly after Esme's death, the melancholy Dang Juren looked back at the church three times a step and left the Gebu with longing and sadness

1905 Dang Juren,EismThe couple came to Kappa as a missionary1959For nearly half a century, there has been Britain美国澳大利亚传The biography of such countriesThe priest walked along the vast old post road to the cloth,Carry out spiritual education for Miao compatriotsAt the same time,诊所、学校、邮政代办所,男女提倡入学受教育So, objectively speaking, the clothAs a witness of a foreign culture, the introduction of Christianity is tantamount to bringing a wisp of civilization to the cloth in the mountains。

 

Auxiliary andKole: thousand years of vicissitudes said Yelang

 

From Gebu Pass, we followed仙水坡梁子The rugged narrow and bumpy road, all the way around to follow the Wujiang north source and shake to reach辅处

The auxiliary office is located in the west of Hezhang County,Hezhang County78 km, 44 km from Weining County。

Don't underestimate辅处It's an unassuming place, back in2000多年在这片土地上,辅处Already possessed of extraordinary imagination and exquisite smelting and casting skills, in the mountains and rivers around them, there are rich metal deposits。辅处Using the best bronze and cowhide, they made a racing bronze drum,And give them divine color and ideal halo。从而To astonish today's archaeological community more than 2,000 years later;At that time, the auxiliary office built palaces, houses, and fortifications for the nobles or residents of the kingdom of Yelang用黄棕色粘土烧制Red bricks and green tiles, and on the surface of the dragon painting phoenix, cross-stitch embroidery flowersAt that time, the auxiliary department for the Han Dynasty garrison of 100,000, the bones of the soldiers, buried in the green mountains, buried in the Hengjiang valley, forming today's vast Han tomb group;也就是从At that time起The auxiliary men made bracelets, brooches or necklaces out of stones for the women, and also removed crescent earrings for the women。The sun is blazing or the moon is bright and the stars are thin, the ancestors back to back, face to face, or rely on each other, and make many good wishes to the day。Since then, the auxiliary office of the dream will be more than two thousand years。That's when the helperUsing fine pig iron, they polished the necklaces of the coffins of the deceased elders or venerable ones, and hung the wooden coffins from the cliffs with these necklaces, as they are called today"Hanging coffin burial", let the world marvel

辅处It is indeed a mysterious place, not only the culture is mysterious, but also the landscape here seems to be covered with a mysterious veil。沿Fairy water slope Liangzi near the dragon,据说It is a water dragon that can command the wind and rain, and the dragon's tail is still at the top of the mountain, and the dragon's head is already stretched out低洼的坝子,向南调头Coming from the south横江组成A likeness道家gossipy阴阳图案The mountain wind and flowing water gurgled, as if it were the whisper of a dragon in the earth。

The mountain is not high, there is the fairy name, the water is not deep, there is the dragon spirit。这龙临水为山,山水自然有了灵气,龙脉自然Long and coherentIn addition to the Wujiang source of the flourishing Yi VillageThe "Gulong Well", not far from the cola, was naturally used as a place of worship by King Yelang more than 2,000 years ago。想想当年,夜郎王站在龙形山上,在法天祭祖的薄雾轻烟中,俯视着那些纵横有序的军队以及在江边坝子里那些隐隐约约的四方臣民,封疆分土,加官赐爵,那该是何等的威风和惬意啊!

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如此来,辅处toponymIt does mean something. Besides turning dragons into mountains,Hengjiang's name, also appears a little“夜郎自大”,Unsociable and aloofThe domineering personality makes it in the auxiliary with乌江It is difficult to combine two streams, and even disdain to say hello to Wujiang,便Head north,一头扎进了金沙江。而乌江北源,则大度地接纳After the streams in Hongyan Reservoir and the mountain streams in the muddled valleys,Without permissionFlow to that because of the Yelang cultural relics名声更大's Cola。

"Cola" is a transliteration of the Yi language "Koloolom", meaning "central big city".。关于The origin of the name Cola,彝族的传说中这样讲道:

Zhiga Aru, the son of the God of Heaven, was assigned by a god named Zeju Zu,Wearing the crown of King Qiu Qiu given to him by Ceju ancestor, Coke surveyed the earth and toured the territory,Come to today's Dafang County area,定下地名后,便开始返程,By a place called Lukewarm's Sleeping Beads,There are hills between the north and the west,把苍天抵住。After a hard day's work, Cheka Alu decided to stay, but he did not even have a place to put his feet."Take coke with the left hand, throw coke with the right hand, cut the top of the mountain, fill the valley", there is a flat land at the foot of the mountain, only to sleep a good night。The next day, he continued on his way, and people found that Luhong sleeping beads were like the crown of King Qiu Qiu, so they changed it to Cola, and it has been used ever since。

Coke surrounded by cornfields, looking down from the hill山绕水迢,Clouds and mist wreathed the air。一个面积大约10平方公里的土地Such as gourd-shaped lying in the three streams confluence and green mountains between wild green。

According to local人讲,在过去,曾有一道行高深的风水先生察看here地形之后,断言这里必定是金钱吊葫芦,是福禄寿喜的温柔之乡,钟鸣鼎食之地。Coke gourd root Longshaped mountain, branch Wujiang source water, this kind of gourd by Longshan water nourishing, can be described as the world's hard to find a blessing。

还有人说,可乐周围的山高低错落,连绵起伏In different forms into the valley, this pattern is called群猪下坝,So cola is famous for producing pigs。也有人称这种格局叫Ten thousand horses return to the trough, or ninety-nine dragons under Sichuan, and one looks back at Yunnan。总之是一块风水宝地。

In this fengshui treasure land, except for the stockade in the middle of the dam,两边,也分布一些顺山而建的舍,三五家一处蜿蜒前行的乌江From the ancient well behind the mountain,The river water is always reflected in the clouds of birds, the bright moon blue sky。夏天,孩子nakedBodies swimming and frolicking in the river,Or finding smooth stones in the grass by the river。their父母在田地里躬身Farm orWeeding. It took me a long time to get up straight孩子The direction in which they play looks,不时扯起脖子呦喝着Their earthy baby names,不厌其烦的叮嘱着

荞麦花开花谢,玉米割了又种。千百年来,可乐People areThis way重复着历史的春夏秋冬重复着无序In days and days悲欢离合、生老病死。直到公元1958年的一天,可乐人世世代代赖以生存的那块A surname挖出了战国时期铜鼓这一爆炸性的消息史学界和考古界It spread like wildfire,一时间,各路人马驱车前往可乐。At Coke, they couldn't help but be surprised, thoseThe people of all ages dug the foundation, repaired the sills, plowed the fields and put them everywhereScrap metal那些用来修猪圈thatchBroken bricks and tiles”,Both are of great archaeological valueAnd from that moment on,省地县各The archaeology department has been carried out in Cola9The archaeological excavation, a total of excavations of ancient tombs386座,More than 8,000 cultural relics of various types and levels were unearthed,One of them is a "national treasure" national cultural relic copper kettle,There are more than 50 national cultural relics, such as bronze swords, drum-shaped copper vessels, bronze ox lamps, and bronze drums,国家二级文物Standing ear copper kettle、青铜蛙等200多件,There are also a large number of pottery, iron and other national third-level cultural relics,At the same time, it was found that the foot burial in addition to the head burial and the stone stone "sarcophagus" burial。In less than10On a square kilometer of land, we found3There are many ancient battlefields, ancient sites and ancient tombs。2001年,可乐遗址古墓群被Be calledOne of the top ten new archaeological discoveries in China,Archaeological excavations with the terracotta Warriors and horses of Qin Shihuang in Xi 'an一起,Be praised asRepresents the highest achievement of Chinese archaeology。

The ancient Yelang period of the tomb excavation in Hezhangcola, GuizhouThere are 108 national tombs in "Nanyi", showing some peculiar burial customs and funerary objects with strong national characteristics。

可乐一下子出名了But at herOverhead blue sky and white clouds, foot Qin brick Hantile”的背后却是The sky is vastThe history ofShe is like仙女一样Shrouded in a veil, you can't help but thinkClose to her, uncover her mystery, appreciate her charm。

为此,有人Have mentioned夜郎文化,Have mentionedThat cause“夜郎自大”成语Famous, but inadvertently mysteriously disappeared in a corner of history of Yelang ancient country。

掀开历史的面纱Yelang Ancient country was the largest country in southwest China before the Qin and Han dynasties, contemporarily with the states of Ba, Shu, Dian and Chu。The territory covered most of the present Guizhou, as far east as Guizhou石阡、Yinjiang and Jian River, west to Zhanyi, Yunnan Province, north to Sichuan Province, south to Guangxi Hongshui River, there are one hundred thousand elite soldiers, fertile fields thousands of miles。According to the Records of the Grand Historian, Yelang很早就在西南地区建立了具有较高文明的夜郎文化。When around几十个少数民族部落尚处于“随畜迁徙,毋常处,毋君长”的游牧状态时,夜郎境内的人The people are already there.结、耕田、有邑聚They were already living a settled agricultural lifeFor this, the mighty Yelang KingThe Han Dynasty valued him so much that he was given a gold seal。B.c.In 27 years, a Yelang king named Xing launched a war against the two neighboring countries of Kucho and Mizuki。在调停无效的情况下,西汉朝廷派驻夜郎邻地牂牁郡的太守陈立诱杀了兴,兴的岳父翁指、儿子邪务率领属下22部众为其复仇,陈立断粮道绝水源,夜郎兵哗变,Kill Weng finger and hold his head to surrender,夜郎从此灭亡,Lost in the wild mountains and the long river of history,Left a lot of confusion for posterityImagination of

Although the research on the origin and development of Yelang State is a matter of archaeology and history, I had to do something about it when I arrived at Kola们从From the 1950s to the present, we are amazed at the major archaeological discoveries!When I come可乐,来到青铜文化的 “殷墟”,面对着那些Ox cart pattern, carriage pattern, geometric pattern, and even the woman with high hair and flowing gown blowing and dancing pattern砖块;还有镶有卷云纹的铜柄铁剑与长方形的无胡铜戈The iron, the copper, the pottery器皿The nobles wore jade penes, jade beads, bone bead necklaces, and turquoise copper bracelets;especiallyIt's a symbol of national cultural exchange“石寨山型”铜鼓;那流行于民间日常生活与祭祀神灵用的Standing ear copper kettle;那炫耀财富、显示地位的贵族们死后用于“套头葬”的铜鼓铁釜;那精巧的“干栏式”陶屋模型以及象征首领权利的“汉印”……My blood was boiling with excitement, as if I had passed through history and entered古夜郎国那一段繁星般辉煌The years ofTo feel夜郎鼎盛时期歌舞升平,也感受到曾拥有精兵10Wan Yelang Junwei and Yanwuping bloody struggle……

The dust settlesWhen 2,000 years of wind and rain passed by, onceThe "Great Central City" has been lost,那些生长And flourishingrisingYelang civilization,早已随风吹雨打去,消失在dusty古文物与In the grave。如今,The color that flows down from the hands of the ancient ancestors is no longer鲜艳文明的接力棒却依然在人In the hands ofQuietly transfer, with the Wujiang River north flow to the distant。

 

Hezhang: Wujiang North source of the first city

 

兴旺Yi Village Gulongjing departure, through Gebu, auxiliary, Cola,罗州等地Winding Wujiang north source, in the entrance has古朴A section of the steep rock drilling road, Yang-yan, became fast flowing起来,前呼后涌的直到妈姑镇的后河Dam, and then appear to be more clever。Then inThe mouth of the three forks与白果方向流来的前河交汇Slowly flow to Hezhang County

The place names of Hezhang are very interesting, usually centered on the county seat and named in different directions, such asWujiang water comes from the direction of Cola, take it as the later river, and the water flowing down from Ginko Town is called the former river。从可乐方向过来的Beam to the county section called after he Shan;From the direction of Ma Gu to break the continuous mountain beam through the Luozhou, over the pond fortSqueeze to the county section called the west hillside。It's not all named after directions, likeThe mountains from Kowloon Mountain pass Ginkgo Town to the county sectionLongdong Mountain。Perhaps such names are more mysterious and palatable than those before and after, so they remain。

三山Such as Dai, surrounded by two rivers, the mountain city in the middle, willIs Hezhang。

赫章最早的名字叫Myrtstream,彝语,意为“有水塘的山冲”。早在Ming Hongwu14年(In 1381), the imperial court sent Fu Youde to the south, that is, to build the earth city on the south bank of Motechuan, which is the earliest castle of Hezhang。清雍正四年(1726年),因当地土司不满朝廷强制性的“改土归流”而出兵抵抗,哈元生奉朝廷之命率兵进剿,获胜后便将墨特川的“墨”字去掉一“土”,改为黑张。In the fifth year of the Republic of China (1916), Tang Jiyao, governor of Yunnan Province, led his division to the north, passing by Hezhang, and changed his name to Hezhang, which is still used today。

The north source of the Wujiang River divided the small town of Hezhang into two and a half,左边城区稍小,由Build onThe house consists of 3 small earth slopes。

一个Earth slope, name“地质队”,The building above it was once the finest in the county。The last centuryIn the early 1980s, this was Guizhou 113地质队驻扎Place that...所以工厂、医院、学校一应俱全,也就修了不少的楼房。Maybe there was no such thing as city planning念,因而房屋横竖Mixed supportCrowded together, the path turned from one corner of the room to the side of the other……虽是这样,却是Local peopleThe most desirable place, mainly这里除了漂亮的楼房And those来自四面八方Handsome men and plump women外,还有那些Put on the street供人们消遣的Dozens of piecesPool table……

At that time the county seat的人们有That isIdle time, except for some people喝酒打点小麻将消遣之外,很多年轻People spend their time at these pool tables。The ease of living here, the contempt for time, makes people jealous and want to join in。No matter what ethnic group lives here,Including the geological crew,Seem to愿意Maintaining this rhythm of life, no one tries to change it, no one tries to discard it。

Later days were differentWith the relocation of the geological team, the workers except for a few old people to stay, those handsome men and beautiful women at all costs to abandon the beautiful buildings and go away。

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The sun, the rain, the days, the buildingsWall roof便长了些枝蒿和草,The walls of the house were black and covered with moss and wild vines。夜里In the gloomy building, occasionally一两A light flickered through the dark Windows, making people feel a little spooky

再后来,一些People from the fringes of the city have taken over。他们To work in the city or find some money in the mines便here租房购屋,To give a little life to the bleak buildings。居住hereIn addition to having children, doing some housework, big多无事可做。They stay home when they are idle for a long time养猪Feed the chickens这样,几乎每幢房子的后檐下便多了一slouchcluttered猪圈Chicken coop。Summer, except for a bad smellIn addition, there are those ubiquitous flies, mosquitoes, etc., which inevitably makes people who pass by good所以,When a lot of people pass here, they always sighThose scattered in the memory of things,比如113, the pool table and all those beautiful men...However, the past time will never come again, these used to be the most beautiful buildingspresumablyHezhang County现在陈旧、最破败, least造型的楼房了。而这些楼房除了Years of vicissitudes of face, but also by the people who lived later拼接搭凑的鸡棚猪圈和其它Building materialIt's just adding salt to the wounds of these buildings

第二个土坡Is Hezhang县的政治心脏,被Local people称作“政府包包”90年代之前,这里还十分荒凉,山头上除了几幢矮小的平房作为县委、县政府的办公大楼外,周围便是一些裸露的岩石和岩石缝隙里的野草和灌木。It's different now. It's all over the hill密密麻麻的房子。Due to the limitations of the site, these houses are growing upward at a rate that makes the trees around them feel ashamed藏在那些高楼的Between crevices摇晃着脑袋

第三个土坡Hezhang County is the most popular and孕育赫章明天希望Place that...,这里赫章的第一中学No. 2 Primary School. Thousands of people come and go all day。用不了多久,Hezhang CountyThe culture ofBy the people who walk out of here, that might be是另外的A sight

右边城区10多年前大部还是农田Vegetable patch。At that time,湛蓝的天空,常有人结伴于田野阡陌,或在稻香蛙鸣中读着Seven or eight stars outside the sky, two or three points before the rain, rice flowers said bumper year, listen to the sound of frogs的长短句。Or breathe the fresh air and enjoy the pleasant mood brought by the idyllic scenery。Or drunk,躺倒在被阳光晒暖的草地上睡过去,直至醒来。In the moonlight, knee to knee, talk about love...In short, in an age of scarce mental facilities,The looseness of time and the openness of space, yesHezhang man最丰腴的资本Sometimes, the simple needs of the material world and the spiritual worldfieldworkOften makes people feel less anxious, and what else in the world can replace such a state?

However, no one can stay in this state for long。就是靠这些土地养活全家,物质和精神生活都简单得不能再简单的农民,在城市文明的扩张下,也不得不为了大局而放弃自己那简单的生存权利,将世世辈辈种植的土地拱让给那些钢筋水泥和砖头。之后,他们或许要穿越Hezhang County的“九零路”,沿着一幢比一幢气势The building, towards the direction of Longdong Mountain in the distanceGo to look forTheir material and spiritual home, perhaps only the land there has been given by God充沛的恩泽

Now, here is a busy street, full of restaurants, hotels, shops and tea rooms, clubs。在Nowadays, history and culture have become industrialized.Hezhang also lost no time in seizing"Yelang" place name contention, to strive to create and enhance the cultural taste of the county。如Because the Qin Dynasty had set up Hanyang County here, there is汉阳宾馆”;Because of Wujiang River北源和可乐,就有了Wujiang sourceyelang等茶楼,有了夜郎森林公园”、“夜郎广场夜郎大酒店"Yelang Museum" and so on冠名夜郎”的发廊、烧烤店、粉馆等等服务行业。

The struggle of culture is a kind of opportunity, it can be said that Guizhou and Hunan are not related“夜郎”地名的烽火相争,没有省内各地的“夜郎”争名大战,也许就没有赫章夜郎文化的出现。可乐,一个Guizhou cultural relics holy land, perhaps will be in the habitTraditional way of survival and developmentIn life安乐所以,When a culture finds its carrier, or a carrier finds its culture, the character of a city or文化特色,就会激发出它那旺盛的生命力,从而让人们在地域The culture of中,穿越历史的长廊,去了解我们脚下的这一块土地以及关注我们这个民族的生存状态,这应该说是一件很有意义的事。

Times have changed。眼下的赫章除了沿街那些While burning yams will still satisfy your nostalgia,There are also leisure places that give you a sense of how different the county is风景。In Hezhang, there are two places that are worth seeing, one is the Majiagou Leisure Resort。一处是夜郎广场。

马家沟休闲山庄处于离县城不远的Longdong Mountain麓,只见股清水从Halfway up the mountain龙洞里垂直坠落earthward形成小溪,Waterfall splashing, such as fog such as smoke;先有thereatInstalling water wheels, grinding wood to make incense, water wheels one after another, grinding wood sound monotonous but crisp,给人以空灵的感受。Subsequent personWith fir sticksBuild one间间相对独立的小木屋,顶上铺以cedarbasingrass草,简朴而Original, sitting inside while pouring rice wine, tasting farm dishes, while viewing Quting water, admire the mountain light moonlight, leisurely swim, fun。

More impressive is Yelang Square,夜郎广场面积不大,但富有品味。Be aSet leisure, culture, entertainment, physical exercise as a wholePlace that...。At the entrance, there is a gate with large stone columns on both sides蟠龙浮雕,下有石虎塑雕。YesIn the past, Yelang Puliao ethnic文化图腾;门的上方有一巨大的木牛头,牛眼如斗,牛角如船,牛额上写有夜郎广场四个稚拙Big character for...。进入大门,There is an altar in the middle of the squareCola topStanding ear copper kettle雕塑In this way, the center of Yelang Ancient country is located。Browsing around the altar body, we have a general understanding of the rise and fall of Yelang ancient country。

感受赫章,In a sense, it is to feel Yelang culture,感受夜郎文化Bring us thick, broad and profound……在离开赫章时,Borrowed from the Tang Dynasty poet Meng Haoran诗句:Stay until the double ninth day, also come to the chrysanthemum。

 

jikakpyong:贵州屋脊

 

From Hezhang County, to the south, cars like hangingIn the mountainOn one's lapel,在白It is entangled with the Wujiang River

一小时后,我来到Pearl Town,Guided by his colleagues in the township government of Zhu City, the car stumbled on the muddy, steep and winding mountain road。来到Chives at the foot of the three look at the ping。Looking up, I can see that among the misty mountains, the mountains reach high into the sky and are surrounded by grass and shrubs。

顺着依山势修建的“之”字形Narrow path,一路曲折而上。阳光似有若无The mountain flowers and weeds exude a faint fragrance。According to the town government people, chives ping is a treasure house of Chinese herbs, high altitudeNatural environmentAnd a longer growth cyclejikakpyong生物基因diversityIn the dense, low alpine scrub,Growing ginger, gentian, Reishi Gastrodia, etc1000种的药用植物,令人不禁想到神话中的仙草As much as exceed2000 species of higher plants韭菜这个灵性的世界The name chives Ping is derived from the wild chives here。野韭菜The leaves are wide and the stem is thick, the plant is more than one meter high, blooming purple flowers as large as roses, flowing over the cliff to the edge of the mountain, dazzling, otherworldly, beautifulSomewhat suffocated。为此,我想,So many leeks can favor2800多米的高Cold zone,按Often ought toThere is a very beautiful, or sad, or beautiful moving legend to explain the wonders of nature。Yet no one has ever spoken of it。I do not know why the history of Chive Pyeong is like thisStranded sum荒芜着,难道It was lost because it was too old?还是版本太旧被南来北往的风?The local people named this place Chives Ping, probably to fill in this aspect of regret。

韭菜坪是草的世界。万仞高峰下2万多亩面积Grassland of赋予jikakpyongFar away and empty, dark green color is givenjikakpyong青春与活力。蓝天白云之下,那The hilly plateau grassland rises and falls one after another上,Herding the dreams of Yi people,牛羊Leisurely enjoying the bounty of nature,Chewing on their own happinessAnd happinessUnder the setting sun随着和风的节奏,又一波的碧绿与周围各种各样开着五颜六色的野花抱成一团,archaic民族一样翩翩起舞。Arishi said"The scenery of the plateau is unparalleled in the world, and the gallery of 10,000 acres of pasture wins。The sky is like a dome covering the four fields, and there are eight green carpets on the ground。The wisps of Xianyu light collect the fog, the layers of smoke haze flashing green light。Cattle hiss horse singing back also, Yi song everywhere singing slanting sun。” 

伫立草场Thoughts fly扬。The alluring aroma of alpine pastures, in chewing,让人情不自禁,Whip the horse天上草原Gallop, jump, gallop freely。

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jikakpyong是石的王国。Corresponding to the warm and abrupt peaks of the chives plateau,是那The incredible natural wonders of the film。The thousand acres of stone forest surrounded by ten thousand acres of grassland is magnificent。Stone forest is densely covered with strange stones, different shapes, very different manners, after hundreds of millions of years of weathering, with no whitewashed reiki, or stand or lie or line, or exquisite, or strong。本地人Be called“Loeb Stone Forest”,彝族语即“落布惹”,大意是"There is a tree on the stone, and the tree grows in the stone.。Indeed, chives Ping stone forest is very unique, you see the tangle of plants from those shapes of different stones grow out, interdependent, formed a美妙的传说。

There is a stone like a maiden lying,人们说那是一位彝家的阿妹,她爱上了英雄支格阿鲁,她用她的美丽、歌声和爱情,把支格阿鲁迷住了,她以一个睡美人的样子撩拔着他,却与他保持着一段距离,让支格阿鲁痴情地望着她,呼唤着她。

There is石头,身着铠甲的武士,人们It is said that King Yelang went up to heaven to borrow the Heavenly army God to help him fight, becauseThere was an error in the docking of the sky and the ground,遂化成石头And this oneGod's soldiers and Heaven's generalsBy God's order to guard this magical and precipitous Yelang earth, this guard is thousands of years……

或许,jikakpyong石林The attraction is that he wears legendary clothing,真正游弋其间时,你会禁不住An amazing touch to nature。从两位石头老人带着子孙,彬彬有礼地作欢迎状,到浑然天成的虎、豹、龟、兔列队等候,从缠杂的藤石到传说中夜郎王的贵妃娘娘……徜徉石林中,不管Stand on位置处于什么角度,There was a beautiful picture before my eyes。

Local people say that there is water where there is a mountain, and how high the mountain is, how high the water is?In the stone forest of chives Ping,最为奇妙的It is the natural combination of stone and hole, hole and water, water and stone。Stone forest has stone water, water has stone, stone water together, Qing Qi and Ming Li, soft and harmonious, stone forest inside and outsideNearly a hundred互相连通的溶洞更为Add to the stone forest了不少色彩。In it, as if in the crystal world, Penglai fairylandLoeb Stone Forest海拔High, and shrouded by its clouds,故又被人们称为“天上石林”。

Chives Ping is a holy place to escape the heat。高海拔的jikakpyong山地The vertical climate characterization is obvious, the winding mountain road nine curves 18 bay, with the vehicle circling up, the vegetation landscape changes, to climb the peak of the main peak, the temperature has droppedSix degrees, in the middle of summer, butThe air was fresh and pleasantly cool在亚太地区6家权威机构评选“中国十大避暑名山”时,The evaluation index is collected from the main peak of chives in the village of Asilisi, this index is also named“阿西里西指数”。

The vigor and spirit of the high mountains have nurtured the colorful chives。Chiucaiping is the Yi people's settlement area,Its main peak below the village of AsilisiTo this day, the purest Yi culture is still preserved。当地的彝族人民把生产生活的场景融入到歌舞之中,创造出了民歌《黄金城登录》、《黄金城登录》以及阿西里西舞、铃铛舞、撒麻舞等内涵丰富的民间艺术,其中,《黄金城登录》入选The list of "Top Ten folk songs of Chinese Ethnic minorities", and the Asilisi dance, which reflects the joy of young people's games, is the representative symbol of Yi culture。Every major festival, especially the Yi Year on the first day of October in the lunar calendar, Yi compatriots will gather togetherjikakpyong脚下Lit bonfires, sang Assilisi songs and danced Assilisi dances, giving the soul of Chives Ping Yi culture。

趟过高原草场,穿过天上石林,看过民族歌舞,Further onThe mountain is getting higher, walking hard, looking up, but see a small butterfly like a few rock eagle hovering up and down into the sky。Strange stones, mixed bamboo wild artemisia higher than the head, a line of people hidden in them, between three or two steps only hear its sound not to see the person。Every step to grasp the wild branches beside the bamboo, sweating rain, panting, all thoughts are not,只是single-minded,蹒跚地行走……

在经过一个多小时的攀登后,我们终于登上了山顶那种来自根骨里的Xianqi immediately cool cool immersion过来。Around the eyes, misty mountains在下,With chiuchiaping ridge as the boundary, the north slope is steep and the mountains are encircling. It belongs to Hezhang County in Bijie region.The south slope is gentle and open, magnificent, belongs to the Zhongshan district of Liupanshui City。乌江的南北源就是以jikakpyong为分水岭,在各自奔流More than 200 kilometers later, it has merged into the Yachi River, and the extended mountains of Chives Ping and Wujiang River have formed a trend of singing and singing。

There is a saying that山水无情。是的,任何名山胜水,没有人的情感参与,就成了空山死潭。如此说来,与其说Chives Ping is a pristine highland,自然的天堂Better sayIt is the original ecological environment and natural fresh air of chives Ping that trigger people's respect for nature and thinking about ecological ethics。

从jikakpyongBack in Zhuhai city, it is evening, the warm Yi and Miao compatriots prepared a sumptuous mutton hot pot dinner for us。In the cordial and lively toast song, we not only tasted the sweet and mellow glutinous rice wine, but also felt the unique hospitality and simple character of Hezhang people。

夜间,好客的珠市镇政府为我们专诚举办了大型的篝火晚会,美丽的彝族少女、表演了铃铛舞、撒麻舞;帅气的苗族小伙也展示了滚山珠、大小迁徙等享誉国内外的苗族舞蹈。End up in姑娘、小伙热情邀请下,我们一起跳起了欢快的阿西里西舞……已是深夜,而我却丝毫没有倦意,我依然陶醉在那优美的旋律之中,我被感动了!不知是诗情画意般的山水,还是Hezhang man的真挚与热情,抑或是充满神秘色彩的yelang情。


Seven Star Pass:雄关漫道

 

告别了jikakpyong,驱车The steep winding path spirals down into the canyonLooking in the direction of the Seven Stars Pass, I saw a huge blue earthworm lying in the bottom of the valley between the two cliffs乌江北源Innocence blooms in blue, white, lavender and pink色的野花Set off against变得有些浪漫起来。The hot sun is lightly painted, and the flowing haze is lightly wiped. It is not so much a river as a wisp of misty dreams, lying in the depths of the Wumeng foothills with anticipation了几千年。

Seven Star Pass到了。这Be a富有诗意又有几分诡异的名字,其名字的The origin of the argument is different: one is said to be the seven star RiverNortheast face赫章境内有巍巍七峰,绵延挺拔,宛如北斗,故得名Seven Star Pass;另一说是Shu Han Jianxing three years (AD225) Zhuge Wu Hou southern expedition here在七星山上祭祀七星...The truth of the legend is impossible to verify today。但传说中的Marquis Zhuge Wu ceremony seven stars at the archwayStill standing on the top of the ramp, engraved“奉命建坊”, And remember the seven star Pass eight scenes: elephant trunk stirring water, printing floating water, ax handle fairyland, fish jumping Longmen, lion door, stone pillars blocking the sun, immortal foot board, long rainbow lying waveThere are seven vivid green dragons carved around it, which seem to still be there忠诚的守The seven stars pass thereIn the depths of time的雄奇和传说 

星梁天柱撑银汉,

雪浪云涛抱玉虹;

襟带平分滇蜀险,

品题合占古今雄。

The Third year of Jiajing(1524), one of the three great Ming Dynasty talents文学家杨慎因违背皇帝意愿谪戍云南,Passing through the Seven Stars Pass from Sichuan, facing the surging river and Xiongguan dangerous road, he must have thought of Li Bai who exiled Yelang, and he wrote such verses from his heart。诗句一方面It contains Yang Shen's upright personality and ideal。另一方面,也It shows that the Seven star Pass was called together with Loushan Pass and Shengjing PassThe majestic posture of "three famous passes in Guizhou"And elegant demeanour

Qixing Pass is located in Yangjiawan Town, Bijie City. Since ancient times, it has been the key point of communication in Sichuan, Yunnan and Guizhou provinces。From The Three Kingdoms诸葛亮挥师南征时曾在Seven Star Pass祭拜北斗七星,并在七擒七纵孟获开始,到1936 Red Army Long March夏曦在此牺牲,这里Fight and kill过,Seven star Pass also left many stories of iron horse:如Uza army and people在此拒守中原师征颖川侯傅文德Led an expedition to Yunnan through here,Wu Sangui came out of Zunyi兵守七星;jikakpyong苗族Mass uprisingHere to attack the enemy...Wait, let seven stars passWitnessed too much bloodshed, but also carrying too many vicissitudes and heavy

昔日喧嚣的雄关Empty, bullet marks, legendsVaguely broken like cultural relicsThe smoke of war faded away in the distance of history,唯有脚下的古驿道还能使我们感受到“马蹄声碎”的意境。

Ming Hongwu161383年),Shuixi Yi stateswoman lady She Xiang for the exchange of four,A skilled craftsman is invited to survey the terrain,Surveying and mapping traffic,Cut through mountains and stones,Build Bridges and pave roads,开辟出以偏桥(今施秉县境)为中心的两条驿道:一条向西经水东(今贵阳东北)过乌撒达乌蒙(今云南昭通);一条向北经草塘(今修文县内)、黔西、大方至毕节共九驿。"Nine post stations installed, Sanba Road now open"。龙场九驿纵横贵州,达云南、四川、湖南边境。而Seven Star Pass就是Xiu Wen Long field驿Dabi FestivalI must pass through the intersection, is also that year威宁到毕节,The only way from Sichuan to Yunnan through Guizhou。

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想想过去,云南商人将Magotou”(马帮的首领)Drive horses and a certain number of mules and horses to form a gang,crisscrossDianzona艰险神秘的茶马古道时,也必定From and to Sichuan, Guizhou, Yunnan three places, trafficking粮食盐巴And local products, and that's when,“得得”的马蹄声Seven Star PassOn the ancient road,踏出了Senma foot base”那样The most passionate and legendary horse gang脚印

除马帮之外,关坡古驿道亦是封建王朝由中原通往滇西的官马大道,No matter what至云南、四川赶考的举子,还是到Northwest Guizhou赴任的官员,还是南来北往的小商小贩,以及游历的文人墨客均取道于此,同时这条道路也是中原征讨云南的必经之路。

背夫关坡On the ancient road的常客,On their backs沉重的货物Feet wearing hemp woollen cloth shoes, hand holding iron pestle, step by step rest ant in the mountainsRough and bumpyOn the long mountain path, I'm done关坡On the ancient road最为辉煌Years and buried endless vicissitudes of life。

一条古驿道,At thatA string of ancient and modern seven star pass layer on layerThe past and the past岁月的辛酸。Walking on the ancient post road of Guanpo, in a trance,The sound of horse bells, the folk songs,Still seem to be耳边久久回荡。

Along the way along the old post road, is the old city gate。The ancient city of Qixingguan was originally built in the Yuan Dynasty.Ming Hongwu15Year (AD)1382) built the Acropolis of Seven Stars Pass,ramming450多丈,女儿墙800Yu Stomu, the gate is divided into east and north gates。Dongmen naming"Wuning Gate", the north gate is called "Dading gate"。However, in several catastrophes, the ancient gates have been lost, and can only be seen everywhere around the ancient city walls and civilian housesBroken stone tabletsTo witness the rise and fall of the ancient town。

There are many stone carvings by the post road of the Seven Stars Pass and on the rocks by the river.Added to the long journey of the ancient road几分文化的韵味。这些都是历朝数代名人墨士here赋诗饮酒,挥毫泼墨The remaining ink treasure was named after the Seven star Pass Cliff。Most of the handwriting on the cliff has been blurred, but the style of the Seven stars Pass can still be felt。especiallyA well in Qixing Village, a complete small arch pillar engraved"A thousand miles flying and a hundred feet of golden light falling on the blessed land"Seven stars ring arch 10000 fireworks south Qingnan day对联It shows the hustle and bustle of this place。

In the heavy historical remains of Qixing Pass, there is a red memory that people can not forget。那是193631,红六军团政治部主任夏曦在此Wade across a river,动员已改编为贵州抗日救国军第一支队的席大明部随军北上,不幸溺水身亡。青山处处埋忠魂,Martyr's British bones to seven star pass cover a layer of tragic feelings。

Finally, it is worth mentioning the bridge of Qixingguan。明永乐十四年(1416年),颖川侯傅文德在此"Building Bridges and restoring them" began,Qixing Guan Bridge has experienced wooden bridge, floating bridge, iron bridge,石桥的多次变迁,屡毁屡修10余次。为此,古人有诗叹曰:

Cliff pass to relieve depression hold dangerous bridge, angry horse running Tao a tidal wave。

The road out of the layer cliff hanging white stone, the column supports the foundation of the crisis into the blue sky。

Galloping to distinguish Gao Zongji, according to bridle like riding Da Yu sled。

Thousands of years of strange look at the number of miles, offering star platform asked Yu Qiao。

Now, standing on the Guanpo overlooking the Seven Stars River,The old bridge, the old bridge pier, the new bridge at the same time, the three Bridges are only two or three hundred meters away, and the age is nearly a century apart。三桥的并列,Witnessing the rolling forward time, like the footnote of the story and the back of the history, tells the history of the bridge and the change of society。

 

大方:Wumeng Well City

 

Along the upper branch of the Wujiang River to the north bank of the river walk four or five kilometers, over a mountain, we arrived at the county of Dafang。

Since the Shu Han period, Dafang has been the political, economic and cultural center of northwest Guizhou for more than a thousand years。After the Yelang culture, represented by Cola, was incubated in the Wumeng Plateau, Wujiang Valley wrote another glorious period on this land。

The history of human civilization cannot be separated from water。Throughout the world, ancient human civilization均产生于水边Such as the Nile civilization in Egypt, the Euphrates and Tigris River civilization in Babylon, and the Ganges River civilization in India。

Although there is no river running through Dafang County,这里最丰富的是水遍布全城的99 ancient Wells, which have nourished the ancient city in different ways over the past 1,000 years, dot the county。大方If you do not see the water, unless you are blindfolded walking, otherwise, inadvertently, you will be the same轻叹声的古井Meet by accident。恰是"A half-idle pavilion with a broken moon and a thousand Wells with a hundred feet of Fubo"。Thousands of fresh springs flowing from these ancient Wells在城中交汇、相溶、分支,然后再轻轻地穿越过县城,于是大方Became a full of lifeWumeng Well City”。

大方The well is full of clear water, and fog rises from it.There is an inexpressible mystery in the obscurity。If you go around the town, they're called子母潭、月亮井、双水井、盐井、火井、杨柳井……Yeah, let youToo many things to seeAt the same time, it also makes you feel that the well of generosity is very unusual, they have their own temperament, they have their own interest,Like two Wells, like twins, black and whiteOne astringent and one sweet。盐井,味咸。火井,温高。Moon well, there is a moon night, there is always the reflection of the moon in the well……还有更神乎的,说大方的井会测Be counted as the result of the yearCan breathe, can keep track of time,Forecast the weather……如此云云。

But Dafang well water does have its own unique features。据《hjc黄金城登录注册》载,99Water quality varies from well to well酒,有的宜豆腐,有的宜熬糖Some are suitable for tea, and some are suitable for drinking……

Dafang County is the hometown of bean products, bean sticks, black beans, dried beans and so on are well-known for a long timeEnjoy a high reputation。In the case of soy, the raw material of soy products,其实和其它地方的大豆没有什么两样,之所以能够生产出独步天下The color is white and tender的大方豆制品Perhaps it is the reason for the use of Dafang well water, just like Maotai wine to the water of Maotai town, the reason of which is only for those biochemists to explain it

According to local人介绍,By virtue of generosity99口井,县城虽建到半腰,但历史以来却从Unbroken water。2010发生在中国南方的特大旱灾中,这些古井It solved the drinking water problem of the surrounding people。The Ming Dynasty Shuixi propaganda centerOfficial well”两边有一对联说得好:"Source Jing Enzepu, clear flow de thick long"This pair of couplets affectionately expresses the gratitude of the generous people to the merits of the ancient Wells。There are many such accolades, such as清代殷樊德称龙水井Spray jade add celery algae rain, flow incense also send rice japonica wind;Li Zuzhang, governor of Dading in the Qing Dynasty, called Xiao Long wellCurved sill Fang pond a mirror open, spring gurgling heart;Late Qing Dynasty talented woman Zhou Wan such as poetry called dou basking pavilion three WellsDark stone springs sound cold, moss deep grass color rich”…… A few words无不given大方The ancient well has the meaning of life and profound humanistic connotation。

世事沧桑,时光流逝Dafang county城的99口井,如今只剩48口井能够使用48口井已用上好石料修circumjacent石碑护栏上刻Plum, orchid, chrysanthemum and other flower patterns以及十二生肖和对联等。每口井上均井名,半腰“龙头”镶嵌从龙口流出,盈盈生韵,仿佛天籁之音,Still in my ears。

Wells are inseparable from the lives of generous people, although there is tap water, but more people are still used to using well water as a water source for cooking。Walking in the streets and alleys of Dafang County, long Wells, Yangliu Wells, small Wells……一口口古井Next to them, they carry water and wash clothesThe citizens of。

The agility of water, the passion of green, the simplicity of people, coupled with the remains of history, make this县城总是新鲜着、活跃着,但我们却丝毫感觉不到一点城市Restlessness of。People hereWhether fetching water from a well or walkingThe footsteps were soft and soothing, as if they were afraid of waking up那些如同母亲般的古井

是的For ancient Wells, generous people have a deep nostalgia, this nostalgia also sustenance their pride and memory of generous culture。

Dafang county城,我们遇到了一个80The old man of culture Huang Jiongjie

Huang JiongjieBefore his retirement, he served as the director of Dafang County Cultural Center and the director of the Cultural Relics Management Institute, and has been committed to the protection and restoration of Dafang Ancient City。他说,Dafang ancient wellIt is the testimony of generous history and the bearing of generous history and culture者,With its unique charm to achieve one“历史文化。In order to let people understand the history and culture of Dafang, the old man spent a lot of money according to the data provided by the "Dading County Annals" and "Dading Fu Annals"10年时间绘制了一幅《黄金城登录》。The picture shows us a simple and heavy big square city。

蜀建兴三年225年,彝族Muog 君长Toax (或作济火)For helping Zhuge Liang in the southern expedition, he was named"King of Lodian", and "long its soil", set a generous capitalAnd built in the county seat of Dafang today“罗甸王府”,在明朝改“贵州宣慰府”,

 “贵州宣慰府”是奢香夫人执政时的府邸,大方人Be called“九层衙门”,时称“Muog城堡”,是古代水西地区各族人民膜拜的精神圣地,It witnessed彝族女政治家The national luxury incense lady's feat of maintaining national unity。

洪武十七Year (AD)1374年),Mrs. She Xiang replaced her husband in politics, understood the great justice, endured humiliation, and maintained the unity of the country and the nation. Zhu Yuanzhang appointed Mrs. Ming Shunde as a pacifying minister in Guizhou执政期间,主持开辟出以偏桥(in today's Shibing County) as the center of the two post road。One of them ran west through Shuidong, past Wusa (present-day Weining) to Wumeng (present-day Zhaotong, Yunnan).。另一条向北经草塘(在今修文县境内)、陆广(今修文六广)、谷里(在今Qianxi county境内)、水西(在今Qianxi county境内)、奢香(在今Dafang county境内)、阁鸦(在今Dafang county境内)、归化(在今Dafang county境内)、毕节等九驿,史称“龙场九驿”。从而打通了Guizhou connecting Yunnan, Sichuan, Guangxi, Hunan and other places of the post road, the present Guibi Highway is basically built along the then post road line。奢香还广泛结识中原和内地的才人学士,并聘迎汉儒到贵州兴办宣慰司学,传播汉文化;招来能工巧匠,传授先进的耕织技术,开垦农田发展生产,从而Dafang has become the key point of Sichuan, Yunnan and Guizhou connection and material culture distribution center。With her wisdom beyond the age and her endurance beyond her personal limits, she set up the last song of national unity through the ages。At the same time, it has also accumulated into the thick historical culture of Dafang County in the long river of history。

Ming Hongwu二十九年 (1396年),奢香不幸英年早逝,时年38岁。After her death, Zhu Yuanzhang, Emperor Taizu of the Ming Dynasty, sent an envoy to attend her funeral in Shuixi and honored her with the posthumous title of "Lady Shunde of the Ming Dynasty".。 During the reign of Kangxi in Qing Dynasty, Wu Sangui, king of Pingxi, sent troops to suppress Shuixi in order to control the whole southwest China and ended the regime of Shuixi in northwest Guizhou1700多年历史。

今天,当我来到"Luodian Country", the former capital, came to "Guizhou Xuanwei Mansion", but Yunlong MountainIs unable to cover the decadence and penetrate into the bones of the head desolate。once“鬼国”早已深埋在历史的尘埃下面,城堡则风化成洗马塘边一匹残缺的石马,一动不动站在樱花树下的草坪上,它是在等待着它的主人吗?Its master came, not far away, a man with a crested head, draped in a canopy, and his hand pressed用阳光写成的scrollYi, foot four, soughing, Zhuo Zhuo and fragrance of the middle-aged woman is coming this way-- She was Madame Shexiang, the chief of the Yi people of Shuixi more than 600 years ago。

 

Nine Dongtian: Karst ace scenic spot

 

乌江北源Liuchong RiverFlow through大方County catteryHoa Nayong达那Between the ladder rock, suddenly disappeared beneath the cliff, dived into the cave,形成Gua Chung River伏流subterraneanWater cave, drought cave, peak forest, peak cluster, lake, canyon, etcIn a string, with nine placesSkylight assemblyIt is a natural landscape of karst flow,“Nine caves of heaven”

"Nine Dongtian" river valley on both sides of the natural vegetation is very rich, there are many wild monkeys。By boat, you can enjoy the myriad and magnificent natural landscape, both sides of the Qifeng and grotesque rocks and cang rock cliffs towering into the clouds。The scenic spot is almost concentrated in mountains, water, roads and caves奇、险、幽、美All the karst geological phenomena。It is praised by Chinese and foreign geological experts as a textbook of karst geology in China, comparable to the Postoi Cave in Yugoslavia, and is included in the book "China Tourism" published in the United States。2009年Asia Pacific Tourism Federation, China Ecotourism Promotion Association, China National Culture Tourism Promotion Association Tourism Research Center awarded nine Dongtian“中国文化生态旅游示范地”荣誉称号,同月在海南“2009 世界旅游精英博鳌峰会”上,Nine caves of heaven被组委会专家评为“世界王牌旅游景区”

虽然是国内独一无二,世界举世无双,但由于从大方马场到猫场Nine caves of heavenThis section of the road is narrow and ragged, making it very difficult for vehicles to pass,使Nine caves of heaven风景区长期处于“养在深闺人未识”的尴尬境地The scenery of nine holes like the dead, the burning drunk dead of the cat farm, the road shaking dead of the cat farm。”这是The masses summarized the beautiful scenery, hospitable folk style and difficult road image of cat farm nine Dongtian。

Fortunately laterXinhua News Agency, Guizhou Daily, Guizhou TV,Bijie Daily、毕节电视台等多家媒体的关近年来,当地政府先后建成了——猫场——Nine holes in the skyChangxi River峡谷风光——Dongfengho——Nine caves of heaven水路的两条通道

Along the land route, we start from the town of Dafang,向南The road to the nine Dongtian is winding, sloping, potholed, narrow and steep。Especially from the sulfur factory to the scenic area that must pass through the road, some places slope greater than30度What makes you even more nervous is that steep slopes and sharp bends, if you are not careful, you will be overturned直到猫场Stop the carThe hanging heart才算落了地。早晨7点半出发,11才到。不过5Ten kilometers, and it cost us4 个小时

猫场的地形Like the stone forest in bonsai, the green trees repair bamboo, during which the farmhouse fields and domains, smoke curl up。民风古朴的苗族、彝族同胞能歌善舞、热情好客。石林对面,A narrow slit hung on the side of the mountain, as sharp as a pencil cut。In the middle of the mouth can be seen a grade"Z" stone ladder winding up,This isLadder rock古道It is one of the nine post roads opened by the Yi chief Lady She Xiang during the Hongwu period of the Ming Dynasty.是昔日大定(今Dafang county城)The main road leading to the Great Rabbit Field (today's Nayong County)It is also an important channel from Guizhou to Yunnan。古驿道上,有形似贵州龙的古生物化石,有红军战斗遗址,Today, there are still many heroic feats of the Red Army

That is in...1935年,罗炳辉、何长工、黄火青领导的红九军团为了掩护主力红军北上,佯装中央红军主力开赴猫场,在此与阻截的国民党军队展开激战,几经周旋,夺取Ladder rockPassage, break through to Yunnan。On that day, hundreds of Red Army heroes were laid to rest here, so Ladder Rock has a red mark

也许是英雄的故事,古老的Liuchong RiverAnd here, too, it manifests its magical powers. It冲破千山万壑,潜入地下。Under the uncanny workmanship of nature, nine huge skylights were carved into Wumeng's spineSome sections of more than 10 kilometers of voltaic flow are exposed, when light is dark, when hidden。

Before entering the nine holes, there is a lake shaped like a meniscus, called the Moon Lake scenic spot。Lakeshore stone wall stands, the color is like vermilion, looking back at the natural bridge hole, you can see a red stone wall, like the map of China, said“神州赤壁”。天生桥孔相对的绝壁上有水滴下落,似飞珠溅玉。

Nine holes like the pearl hole connected, caves tall, the water is wide and narrow, the cave of thousands of weather, mysterious strange, strange stone lofty。On the ground river and underground river interleaving, rafting on the river, sometimes a green sky, sometimes dark waterfall flying hanging, water sound, waves, its scenery its dangerous and thrilling。

一洞“月宫天”,穹窿高八十余米,At the top of the hole, there is a large circular concave wall, like the moon hanging high in the sky, so it is called Moon palace day。进深百余米,分前、中、后三厅。前厅Such as the facade and the living room, empty and atmospheric, the roof of the cave like a star river耿耿彩云烘月。Around the cave walls, or dragon and phoenix auspicious, or lion dance, or cranes fly, or beasts head。Stone milk, stone curtain, stalagmite, stone waterfall shape is different, like a string of grapes, blossoming ganoderma;Like a soft curtain, a glittering curtain of pearlsThere are if the sea turtle, the dragon playing in the water, the goshawk spread its wings……Exit from the cave and take a boat to the two cave sky at the Xihe Pond。

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二洞“雷霆天”800余米,Entrance to its mouthTwo waterfallsEchoing, breaking waves,Sound like a giant thunder, hence the name Thunder Day。Two waterfalls常年青山白岩为背景,夏有蓝天白云交相辉映,冬有十里腊梅尽情怒放,不同的季节会有不同的感受,飞瀑巨大声浪在这样的环境里粗野地喧嚣,令人忘却尘世,不自觉地接受着自然声光山色对心灵的洗礼。Take a boat up the river from a cave in the rock face into the submerged water passage轻舟慢桨,沿途景致历历在目。The "high slope terraces" are stacked on top of each other"Nine days stone waterfall" fell from the sky;石廊甬道,曲折迂回Stone blossom”,天下(关于"Stone blossoms", "Dading County records" is recorded: "Guazong River small Dukou rock, every April, the night of the thunderstorm, there must be hundreds of thousands of butterflies incubating on the rock。The next day, for the five-color stamens, rote frequency shop。After the Duanyang, the latent hidden。"Therefore, every year before and after the Duanyang, the crowd of people who come from the name of the station, flocked to come to see this precious world spectacle。)

三洞“金光天”The winding path is like a maze, which sometimes makes people quiet and calm, and sometimes dreams and illusions。Swim to the depths, suddenly a ray of sky light, suddenly open, the sun, the surface of the golden light, so the name of the golden sky。

四洞“玉宇天”,由Sinkhole, overpass, karst cave, volute compositionTiankeng square10余丈,四周枯藤老树,横生斜插,两座天桥跨其上。And in the cave,石笋石柱层层林立,玲珑剔透,像一座漂亮的宫殿。故名玉宇天。

五洞"Gourd day", six holes "Elephant King day", seven holes "cloud day", three sky holesConnected together, dependent and connected。Three Bridges cross it, and the water flows in and out of it,时明时暗In the hole, which地面梯田石坝网纹纵横;天顶,石笋石柱The God sticks to the jade pillar。Stone walls, stone curtains, stone curtains like drifting gauze clouds,整个洞中There is more that the rain of magma, three points of spring color three points of Cui, half of the spring breeze half cold

八洞"Treasure Day", the sky is round, the cliffs are like cutting,Place oneself in洞中仰观天窗大开,衔彩云Swallow Li Sun, radiant dazzling, wearing clouds dyed。Bend your feet,水中天,天中水,晶莹闪烁,Bright light, red orange yellow green, like a poem like a dream,别有洞天。

Eight holes out of the sky, walking 100 meters on the land, another masterpiece of nature is presented in front of you, a shape like the ancient city gate, highMore than 200 meters, more than 120 meters thick, 112 meters high and 96 meters long, the world's rare karst Tiansheng Bridge flies between the cliffs on both sides, which is the nine holes Sky。Countless streams meet here and flow under the bridge。There is a stone plaza under the bridge and above the water, which can accommodate thousands of people。站在桥头眺望,Big overpass, Xianren Cave, Matou Mountain, natural trestle road, five eyes hole, Manus Stone River, underground lake……The clouds and mountains are misty and boundless。So called“大观天”。

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有人游览了“Nine caves of heaven”之后Said with emotion: heaven set the earth, incomparableIf we say that the landscape we have seen before is a basin of exquisite artificial bonsai, then"Nine caves" should be a vigorous and rugged natural garden。为此,有人撰联赞曰:

A hole on a bridge, a hole on a bridge, a hole on a bridge, no hole on a bridge,

Mountains of water, water Zhongshan, mountains and mountains of water, monopolizing the soul of the landscape。

如果从Nine caves of heaven一直深入进去,上游连接着岸峭水急,溶洞密布的“乌江第一漂”——Changxi River峡谷风光区(注:Liuchong RiverFlow through纳雍县维新与厍东关之间叫Changxi River,往下至Nine caves of heaven叫油菜河)Changxi River峡谷It's a place that retains its original features quite completelyRan Canyon,被形容为“百里画廊”波涛滚滚的六冲In the mountainsWinding and stretching, with cliffs on both sides, plusPrimitive pines and ancient trees, waterfalls and flowing springs,袅袅,Formed a beautiful and pleasant natural scenery。

 

Zhiga Alu Lake: ancient Yi holy water

 

After watching喀斯特博物馆翻毕岩溶百科全书"Nine days later, we set off from the cat farm and followedA winding mountain road spiraled up。This pit pit凹凹、崎岖不平的公路被Be calledLadder rock下的“红旗渠”,它是猫场乡碧脚、长征等村The villagers, without any financial support, From 1991 to the end of 1997, after 8 years, in the spirit of YugongLiuchong RiverLadder rock绝壁上打通而成's highway。This road, like the Red Army's capture of Ladder Rock, represents a kind of courage, a kind of perseverance, a kind of faith and a kind of spirit。Driving on this road, although all the way bumpy化作Town, but for the people who built this road expressed sincere admiration, for their spirit moved。

一个多小时,我们到达化作,这Be a小镇,街道为"Ding" font, is Bijie to Liupanshui must pass through the place, so there are a lot of vehicles, the road significantly improved。

Along the way,是一眼望不到边的绿色,可谓千峰叠翠,万壑披绿。A large green sweep from the front, open the window, the ear is bursts of pine, the front is a vast expanse of forest sea。车子仿佛一只在绿色海洋的风口浪尖上舞蹈着的小船。The higher you go, the thicker the green gets。Turning a mountain beam, I saw clouds and fog around, birds singing flowers。Among the greenery is a picture of a well-off society in harmony between man and nature,几十户农民居住的小楼,被四季常绿的柑橘林包围。向前,Furrowed a new famous tea tree,In the corner of the mountain revealed, soft mantle, verdant desire, a blossoming white flower embellished among themThe breeze is blowing, and the mellow and sweet fragrance is refreshing……

What you'd never expect from a landscape like this is this是中国土地Stony desertification最严重Place that...。"Naweh, you can't go."From ballads, you can understand the pastRelying on the ancient post road as a channel, relying on the caravan to transfer logisticsAnd information,靠刀耕火种喀斯特环境Stony desertification土地中寻求温饱The west of Guizhou, what kind of a living environment!

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早些年,我也曾Walk onWumeng hinterlandBetween the mountains, through thatThe barren and desolate rubble hills, curling up through the lone smoke的茅草屋,Through that山环绕与世隔绝的村我看到了一幅地久天长延续There have been no black and white images in colour for centuries。直到很多年后,这幅图景在我的心中一直挥之不去。

所幸,历史总在In the rotation, poverty and loneliness often give birth to the myth of breaking the stone。

从Last centurySince the '80s, people here have started to moveChange the harsh environment of ecological restoration路,他们栽种茶树,培植草场,发展经果林,终于Let the former barren mountains become green mountains and rivers, becomeA beautiful environment suitable for human survival and residence

Blue sky, white clouds, green grass, leisurely sheep...Only by being in such a poetic picture can we truly feel that this is a land undergoing dreamlike changes。"The stone is in the grass, the grass is in the stone, the grass is green all seasons, and the Cangshan is evergreen all seasons", the traditional farming method has been subverted, and the mountain people have been shaken as herdsmen。Because of planting grass and raising sheep, the precious land in the rock is no longer washed away by the rain, and the former extreme poverty has become rich in one fell fell, and the nightmare that one side can not feed one side is gradually disappearing。

The car all the way forward, over the sandbag, Le Zhi, old concave dam and other places, imperceptibly, a thousand hectares of blue waves,The vast and magnificent high gorge flat lakeUnfolding before our eyes, this便Chi Ka Alu湖了

Zhiga Alu Lake, formerly known as Water West Lake, covers the southeast and western parts of Dafang County,Qianxi countyThe west, the north of Zhijin County and the northeast of Nayong County, the water area of nearly 100 square kilometers。The size of its water capacity, the breadth of its waters, the length of its waterlines, is called"The first lake in Guizhou", for the national "west to East power transmission" key project Hongjiadu power station began construction in 2000,对木空河(自Nine caves of heaven至大方、纳雍公路交界处,乌江北源Liuchong River谓之木空河)进行筑坝蓄水以及源自不同方向的果比河、边缘河、武佐河、西界河与Forked river等多条支流河道自然形成多形状人工湖泊。

Chi Ka Alu湖,彝语“中国古彝圣水”。Zhiga Alu is the typical sacred ancestor of Yi nationality and has great influence on Yi nationality history and culture。In the vast Yi areas of Yunnan, Sichuan, Guizhou and Guangxi, many Yi people recognized him as their ancestor。As one of the typical ancient sages of the Yi people, he was the chief of the tribe, the king, and the cultural person who presided over the sacrifice-- Boomer, astronomer, calendarist all in one。作为神性英雄人物,Chi Ka Alu射日射月,战胜凶恶势力,铲除吃人的妖怪,给天地带来了生机,为人们带来了安宁的生存环境,因而在彝人的心中,Chi Ka AluJust like Achilles, King Gesar, and Kuafu and Chert of Han culture倍受祗敬与膜拜。So, this个半人半神的英雄,其形象无处不在,在Zhijin Cave,在楚雄十月太阳历广场,在西昌奴隶博物馆等等许多地方,我都见识过他盘马弯弓的塑像。As a legendary figure,Zhiga Alu was born to the sun and moon, black and dumb after birth, so six angels escorted him to bathe in the Liuchong River, which runs through the territory of Shuixigu Yi水中Wash your body clean and clean……The place where he bathed is now Lake Chiga Alu。

今天,在以Chi Ka AluNamed after the lake, God's omnipresence我们带着虔诚The mood of pilgrimage into the Chi Ga Alu Lake。

From the Mukong River pier, paddle into the heart of the lake,Chi Ka Alu湖的Water will gradually spread to us never repeat the charm。Chi Ka Alu湖的清晨宁静娴雅,清澈的湖水甚至令天光为之失色。In the morning, the remnants of the night wind will not wrinkledistant湖面Even when the rain falls, the ripples on the surface of the water are only a small circle of reserve。因此,我为自己摇船弄出来的The green waves are rippling and the waves are dancingFeel ashamedKui, the sound of nature is quiet, and the sound of people will show the confusion, even if it is only a fine and low咳嗽

The hills are rolling.The surrounding green grass and tea farms make the turquoise lake pure,没有落叶,宁静的水中不含任何杂质即使鸟鸣音也lakebound浩淼And calm dragged into space and time that could be ignored, exceptOur gangMan, what can break this silence。这片宁静的湖面,只会Always be there不远处发电的声中失去极致之美When cars and yachts cross the lake,When the lake is surrounded by fishing weapons or picnic goods,Chi Ka Alu湖那沉寂之美便sorryBe gone。But sometimes I also think that what is lost is not necessarily a kind of beauty, when the world has no noise。When the world is free of human creation,Is the quiet beauty of Lake Chiga Alu still beautiful?只是,当我荡舟湖中,面对湖光山色时,那些All the worldly illusions, worldly fameSeem to allWashed away by the clear water of the lake无踪。荡尽繁华,洗净铅华,便For life, for destiny, yes了另外的一番理解……

Chi Ka Alu Chi Ka Alu Lake  荡漾着不老的容颜

Chi Ka Alu湖  请为我洗去懦弱悲伤

洪洪荒荒的远古

Chi-ga Aru washes away desolation from here

清清幽幽的湖水

The dream of yesterday, the dream of yesterday

每一滴圣洁的水

都是阿妈的祝福

每一只飞翔的鹰

都是千年的梦想

……

In the melodious song, I seemed to see a man who had died for Chiga Aru名叫Ruth A Ying的水西姑娘,从Deep in Mount Myalo, to the lake, rocking the boat, singing sweet songs are coming towards us。

 

Zhijin Cave:Number one in the world

 

我们From Chiga Alu Lake, followWujiang tributariesNaked riverThe Yi meaning is"Clear Water River in a narrow Valley"逆流而上,经过被Be called织金北大门”的八步镇之后,前行到达Guanzhai township东街口China is the most beautiful的钟乳洞”——Zhijin CaveIt was presented to us like a dream。

To the gate of Zhijin Cave scenic area,发现今天正好是Guanzhai township赶集的日子,Both sides of the roadIt was full of motorcycles, electric cars and carsWait for a vehicle其市面上熙熙攘攘的情景It makes people feel messy and lively。

时间尚早,我们在That WillomYi ancient village, the end of the Ming dynasty in Guizhou propaganda Tongzhi An Bangyan old residenceAfter a stroll around the place, he entered the Zhijin Cave with a dozen tourists。

Zhijin Cave处于苗族聚居地区,又名打鸡It's where the Miao people kill chickens for sacrifice,It is said that at that time, there was a farm family nearby, and found that their chickens had run away, and in the process of looking for chickens, they found this cave.When the people of the village heard about it, they came here,Deep, deep, afraid to re-enter,人以为神洞,便Kill the chicken and throw it into the hole to ward off evil spirits。故称“打鸡洞”。其今The name is the name of the county in which it is located。The name of Zhijin county is the autumn harvest season, the grain is like gold, weaving the earth into a piece of golden meaning。I think, will"Playing chicken cave" was renamed "Zhijin Cave", which probably also contains this meaning。

Zhijin Cave within a radius of dozens of kilometers of mountains, tall and straight, majestic and steep terrain, called mountain green, cave strange, stone beauty。By karst caves, mountains and rivers, lake canyon scenery, cultural relics and monuments, celebrities (Ding Baozhen), ethnic customs and so on constitute a unique tourist resort。

In the past, although I was no stranger to Zhijin Cave, I knew very little about it。来到Zhijin Cave,才真正理解当年作家冯牧为何要写下Huangshan return does not see yue, Zhijin cave outside the cave, Langlei resort Yaochi landscape, such as faith in heaven in the world”的诗句了。

Zhijin Cave溶洞总面积70多万平方米,已开发长度 12公里,洞体最宽跨度175米,一般高60米至100米,洞内相对高差150多米,Zhijin Cave划分为迎宾厅、Sermon hall、寿星宫、凌霄宫、The Moon Palace、银雨宫、Shiwan Dashan等12个景区,47个大厅,它们Connected by winding passages,一厅一景,Step to scene shiftEach has his own character号称“天下First hole”。

Zhijin Cave内的By those碳酸钙沉积物formativeStrange, different shapes and lifelike stones造型In the colorful, endless changes的灯光之下正好可以Put together into a complete myth小说《黄金城登录》。As if inside a caveA mighty empire“定海神针”There are scenes of the Dragon palace where the Dragon King of the East China Sea lives, yesIn the water curtain cave where the Monkey King lived, there is the Heavenly Palace where the Jade Emperor lived.有色彩艳丽、形状奇特的滴石、云碟、云盘,宛若西王母娘娘那A golden cup of jade, delicious food蟠桃There are fairies flying clouds, there are fairies dancing……还有那些如层层伞盖的雪松,放大千倍的松球,迎风招展的石旗,一道道石边坝再现黄龙胜景的小溪,向四外卷曲生长的玉玲珑,根根中空的石管,透明的石指,声音清脆的石琴石鼓,在水塘中展开的片片莲叶,以及countless唯妙唯肖的All kinds of shrimp soldiers and crabs, small and small groups of monkeys, demons and ghosts, etc., is not a strange and wonderful mythical world?

Look at thatThe Moon Palace”里,“梭椤树”拔地而起,“树”身上石灵芝层层叠叠 Look at that“银雨宫”里,“银雨树”塔状Piled up like a lotus in full bloom, its sharp upright like a jade tree in the wind;You seeSermon hall”里,“如来”Sit up high20米的山头现身说法,木鱼置于手边,山下众罗汉Different posture, some have gone to sleep;Look at thatTallinn Cave”中,“佛"Forest," temple architecture"Row upon row:Look at thatShiwan DashanThe mountains stretch as far as the eye can see;最后,你再看看那壁画All kinds of stone curtain stone forest attached to the broad stone wall spread out, in the light of the more beautiful,Seems to have been "Journey to the West"形形色色的的故事都刻画了那170米、高6070米的大石壁上了,让你不得不感叹大自然的沧海桑田巧手天工。

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的确,Zhijin Cave is a masterpiece of heaven and earth。Since the formation of the earth, this region has undergone many changes, and finally gradually rose from the sea to become a mountain。After thousands of years of flooding, the mountain's belly was emptied, forming a huge void。About from260,000 years ago, the process of karst drip precipitation to create stalactite landscape began。据Local peopleThe stalactites in the cave can only grow every year12毫米To create this amazing work of mannerism, nature这位能工巧匠不知需要付出多少年的心血啊!

“山上山,水上水,天生桥上桥,洞里飞花雨。This is a summary of the wonders of Zhijin Cave。除Journey to the West myth outside, inZhijin CaveInternal repaymentNewly addA Dream of Red Mansions, The Three Kingdoms演义"And stories of famous people in ancient times,同时,在它The surrounding cave community also has its own mythological color, which is located on the flank of Zhijin CaveThe Valley of dinosaurs, which combines mountains, water, forests, caves and sinkholes, has been endowed with fairy tales and science fiction色彩

There is no clear sun and moon in the cave, and time is short and long。走出洞外,霍然开朗,The three-hour journey seemed在洞中千年。The sun is shining brightly.,一阵The wind sweeps,Took a deep breath and felt refreshed,心旷神怡,Can not help but sigh, or the world is very good!什么瑶池天宫What paradise cave, that is, after all, the place where the gods live, the days of the gods, not we mortals can wish。

Several Miao women were selling clothes。Miao costumes are the most distinctive costumes among the ethnic minorities in China, and there are many patterns embroidered on them来源于生活Various images比如Mountains, rivers and lakes,飞禽走兽、花鸟虫鱼、家禽家畜、农舍车马等而其案纹样往往多彩多姿,变化万端。It is not only a cultural symbol of Miao history, but also a sign of Miao women's ingenuity。因此,为了长大后能够挑到自己的意中人,苗族Girls learn from their grandmother or mother when they are youngMiao costume production, batik, embroidery, sewingAnd before they were married, they had to make their dowry very carefully, especially the back fan decoration used to carry the doll。This custom not only reflects their yearning for a happy life, but also provides an opportunity for them to show their intelligence。许多精致The clothes are from these girls' skillful hands。

在Zhijin Cave周围,人们往往会谈及到一位名叫蔡群的姑娘She was famous for her costumes and patterns。据说,许多来Zhijin Cave游玩的人都会慕名找到她的店中,一边与她聊天,一边欣赏她在桌前穿针引线、挥笔点蜡,然后高兴地采购几件苗族服饰回去。

从Zhijin Cave返回织金县城,已是Fading colour,万家灯火。晚上,县城一家最正宗的A hundred years old店,发粑。Pa U精制Fermented glutinous rice, white as clouds, soft as sponges,Take a sip,略带一丝甘甜醇香果然Intoxicating回味无穷。关于发粑的来历,Occasionally, there are legends:说是在过去,县城“九对头”街道一媳妇在糅米Ready to steamI accidentally knocked over a bowl of wine lees next to it并掺米粉,小媳妇Want to throw away rice flour remix, but rice flour precious, fearThe responsibility of the in-laws于是Had to put the rice flour mixed with wine lees in the steamer steamer, the result of this cage of crispy riceIt gives off a mellow taste straightWhole family直吞口水。In this way, Zhijin Fa-ba is right,spread,成为了闻名遐迩Place that...小吃……

 

Huawu Base: the intersection of the two sources of the Wujiang River

 

Cong Zhijin出发在公路上行驶了一个多小时,黔西、Xinrento山口,停车在观台上俯瞰,只见26The winding road runs down the mountainHuawu Village, all the way to the lake。The smallest turn is not enough30米,犹如一条蜿蜒龙从天而降直奔

Before I got here, I heard there was a place calledThe path of "hand climbing", the reason why it is called "hand climbing", indicates that it is extremely difficult here, and it is all done by climbing with both hands。路与地面的幅度接近于90度,这条路全是从悬崖绝壁开凿出来的,在2007年“26道拐”公路修通之前长达300多年的时间里,居住在trellis的苗民就是通过这条路与外界保持着联系。Whether it is studying, getting married, or going out to work, this road is the only way for them, and it is also the only way。Due to the inconvenience of transportation, the colorful ethnic customs and the wonders of nature have not been known for a long time, and the people's life is also extremely poor。After the construction of the highway in 2007, the Huawuji Miao Village and the most beautiful Hundred Li gallery of Qianli Wujiang finally stepped out of the mountains and forests to reveal themselves in front of the world。

26道拐的尽头,乌江北源Liuchong River与南源Forked river在此汇合,称为鸭池河。当年贵州宣慰司(俗称水西),即以此水为界。This body of water is wide and used to be called"Eight Immortalites Lake", which roughly derives its name from the nearby Eight Immortalites Cave, has been renamed Dongfeng Lake。From the meaning of their names, "Baxian Lake" and "Dongfeng Lake" clearly represent the ideologies of different eras。“八仙湖”之名,具有神秘、自然、潇洒、浪漫的意象,代表了农耕社会时人们对桃园世界和超凡脱俗境界的向往;而Dongfengho则具有一种革命的意味。

DongfenghoIn fact, it is a reservoir formed by mountain and ridge, holding dam and accumulating peak water。The lake is pale and the mountains are reflected;The green hills meander。So the two sources of the Wujiang River meet here without usIn the imagination, the momentum is magnificent, magnificent。而是以它们少有的含蓄、平静、温婉,就像一对来自同一家乡而又相爱已久的恋人那样经过千百年来高山峡谷,一路奔波的考验,here很亲和很自然地融于一起了。

沿着26道拐转下去,直到滩上,便来到了歪梳苗人聚居的trellis。

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"Huawuji" is said to be a transliteration of the Yi language, meaning a stockade at the foot of a mountain。Why use the Yi language to name, I think it is probably related to the experience of the Miao people in history。在隋Tang and five Dynasties时期,苗族因战争的原因从东部湘楚一带迁往Northwest Guizhou,进入彝族地区,以彝族土司为保护伞,但却成为土司奴隶主的奴隶。The Hmong who migrate here farm in the most barren stone nooks where no one wants to plant。However, even such a stone corner, its ownership also belongs to the Yi chieftain. it is a reflection of this history。

trellis东西长约4.5公里、南北宽约3.The 5 km lakeside area, the Miao compatriots living here, due to the remoteness and relative isolation, still retain a unique Miao folk customs。Said to be1865whenThe Taiping rebellion King Shi Dakai once led his troops through here, and stationed here for a week to organizehere苗族人民反抗清朝的统治,并赠送这里三门铁炮。

From the beach along the path up, on both sides of the lush grass, green trees, especially those peach trees, plum trees, red and white,Surrounded by the uneven stone walls, the patchwork houses,看上去很像一幅艳丽墨画,画中,偶有三两个She wore a colorful dress with her hair pulled sidewaysMiao girlIn the Stockade走来,One by one仙女Jump out the colors that dot the picture。我想,Tao Yuanming House描绘“土地平旷,屋舍俨然,有良田美池桑竹之属。阡陌交通,鸡犬相闻。Among them are the works of men and women dressed like strangers。The old and the young, and happy"A paradise应该是这番景致吧。虽然村寨中的苗族所居住的吊脚楼或石板房大多已被水泥砖筑起的平房所代替,于我这个企图寻觅古老民族淳朴风俗以及原生态建筑的人来说,或多或少有一种遗憾,但我又不得不为人类文明的进步,为trellis的今日感到欣慰。

月亮出来月亮黄,

叫我唱歌我心慌,

当时和你我不唱,

After this my song fills the hills;

月亮出来月亮白,

叫我唱歌我羞涩,

不可惜你的容貌,

只可惜你的真情话,

You can sing, so sing more songs to comfort our hearts。

We'll be jumping the flower slope in early spring and February,

You have a heart. Let's meet again。

还未走进村寨,歌声便悠悠而来,恍如天籁……

Crooked comb Miao people have always been able to sing, dance and boxing。Whether it is field work, leisure, love, weddings and funerals, etc.,Are closely related to musicWhenever the farm idle moon Lang wind clear night, the boys often melodious Lusheng song为引,Invite the girls from home, to the mountain wilderness of the stockade to talk about love, singing love songsThe content of the love song is very rich, the multi-voice structure is sung until late at night, usually the young man has to send the girl home, along the way, the mouth and chords to each other, the love is endlessIt is permeated with the simple, authentic and sweet rural love of the Miao youth。在早春二月跳花坡的节日,男女青年不仅用情歌表达衷肠,更以形体舞蹈来表达自己的情意和欢快的场面,于是便有了从劳动和武术动作演变而成的板凳舞和打鼓舞,especially小伙子们所跳的Lusheng Dance更是Absorbing many elements of martial arts and acrobatics, it has formed a modern Miao dance with traditional Miao characteristics。除此之外,还有“歪梳苗”少女Fist dance, it looks like a beautiful dance。Graceful and gentle fist posture, let people full of reverie

Of course, the most beautiful or Miao girl, red face不施脂粉Smart eyes or shy or warm, not artificial, not self-conscious, call to mind the naive childhood。We are busy in the city, the precocious children in the hustle and bustle, whether we have forgotten this pure instinct?The girls' dresses, exquisite and elegant, are said to take a year to embroider。萁Clothing pattern is not only the creation of beauty, but also the record of history。裙脚三条横线表示祖先曾经生活在黄河、长江和平原。The "star flower" means that when Chiyou and Yellow Emperor fought, they marched at night and relied on the star to guide them。"Jiuqu River Flower" records that ancestors migrated from the Yellow River and Yangtze River to many rivers。“蜘蛛花”表示祖先被围困时顽强战斗的精神。“虎爪花”叙述迁徙到深山箐林后打虎的故事等等。A set of clothing is a distorted comb Miao people's national history, the love of hometown and the vision of life to wear on the body, with silver is unique charm。I'm calling all the girls in the city who love beauty。

苗寨,那悠扬的器乐声和着苗家少女美妙清脆的歌声越发动听起来……十几个穿着色彩艳丽服饰的Miao girl,Holding a cup in his hand, he stopped us, and in the midst of cheerful tunes, melodious songs, and laughter, we drank一杯杯香醇的“拦路

Enter the national scenery park, see a joint written on both sides of the gate:"The mountain is beautiful, the water is beautiful, the dance is beautiful, the song is bright, the wine is mellow."。走进园内,We have几分醉意,Miao boyReed horn中,和苗家姑娘们一起Singing and dancing……

吃罢午饭,我们到八仙Boat on the lakeNaked river上。

The beauty of the naked river,在我看来,不仅在于"The mountain is like the gorge and the water is like the Li River and the mountain", also lies in the huge ink scroll displayed on both sides of the lake where she is still a virgin。This is the incomparable master of the art of nature, using everything in heaven and earth as a pen and ink, after millions of years of wind and rain painted on the immortal scroll。逆水而上,庄子Peripatetic excursion》中的大鹏展翅Mystery through the agesLoulan beautySolemn and sacred水西座佛、静静躺着的天蚕、生动有趣的灵猫戏水hydrophilic“大running狮群...On the yellow or red or white rock walls, moss, vines and cracks combine to form a subtle landscape, one after another像放电影似的闯入我们的视线

especially人称奇的是在The confluence of six rivers and three riversSuddenly erect a firm stand, male essence lofty round山峰Local peopleBe called“天竹峰”,高约7More than 0 meters, the circumference of green wood for Cui, gather mountain stone into fine, muscles and flesh show, pointing to the firmness of the sky, let people doubt the root of heaven and earth, guess the penis of the essence of the mountain。There is a saying, "Men and women match, work is not tired.。”难道Wujiang south source north source in this combination isHeaven and earth between male and female, Yin and Yang opposite nature?All thisMake people forgetCity spring and autumn, straight like a fairyland而浮想联翩

有古诗作证:

Quiver towering through the sky, the house scenery alone look。

The two sides of the Cui Wei stop two water, the dragon boat ripple will be three exchanges。

Dream to hear the crane tears add a flute, wake up to listen to apes play a few flutes。

Abrupt Qifeng Tianzhu stand, deep Taoyuan Ren travel in the sky。

 

修文:王学圣地

 

After the north and south sources of the Wujiang River converge in Huawuji, Qianxi County, the water volume increases immediately. From Huawuji to Qingzhen, the Wujiang River is called Yanchi River in this section。From Qingzhen into Xiuwen county, in this section, Wujiang叫做六广河。

六广On both sides of the river, green and verdant, the thick shade along the steep and steep mountains, overshadowing the whole field。really"Rich green birds all year round, a lake clean water half lake mountain"。

随着汽笛声We started a tour of the Liuguang River Gorge。

六广河峡谷有7峡。首先进入我们视线的是“白马峡”,峡谷两岸,Is the towering mountain, is the stone screen of the general cliff, refers to the sky and the cloud of the mountain, layer upon layer, endless;Wild, green, and colorful。Looking up from the bottom of the valley, I saw a line of blue sky, so there are“一线天”之称。峡谷中,有一巨石峭壁,兀立山巅,形若苍鹰拍翅绕着陡崖飞翔,称为“苍鹰搏击”。Big White Horse Beach, the river galloping, like a wild horse, called "white horse running wild"。Down the river, through Jiajia Cave into the "monkey sorrow Gorge"。

"Monkey sorrow Gorge" on both sides of the steep and straight mountains, verdant trees, often the presence of macaques。因为崖岸险峻,连猴子也难以攀爬,所以叫做猴愁峡。I looked up at the cliff on the left bank, but I saw a big hole 80 meters above the water, and hundreds of swallows were singing in the hole...This scene is called"Swallows and cicadas sing”。

过六广渡口,进入“飞龙峡”。左岸The peaks stand like swords and axes。A stalagmite rises to the sky before our eyes,传说This stalagmite is the brush written by Wang Yangming when he wrote poems and compositions, and inserted here after use。对面,Halfway up the mountain, there is a white spring water hanging in the air。夏季的雨后两岸岩间飞瀑,像珠帘碧翠一样The vast expanse flooded up, the mountains in various positions, suddenly floating on the sea of clouds。Trance often gives people a sense of a surging peak floating wonderland。

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After the Wulaofeng, face a red steep cliff, like a book like a painting, like a wall of Tianquan, anyone can interpret。This isChibi Canyon,赤壁Canyon momentum strong, Yibo Haomiao, waterfall flow Dan, sagging, valley as a man, gentle water like passionate girls, very graceful and beautiful。

Through elephant trunk gorge, sword split gorge, love spring Gorge……accidentally便到了Xiuwen, Qianxi, Jinsha three counties borderThe mouth of the three forks。Turn the bow, but see the ancient trees deep, curling smoke,Several low-rise houses dotted the hills and plains上,犹A paradise,但却To add a sense of nostalgia。

江心,此时正飞过几只Birds not normally seen, some deliberately with wings and claws to make waves of water, as if to show that they are amphibious家伙……

Liuguang River is the most beautiful section of the upper reaches of the Wujiang River。The wide area of the water is vast, and the narrow area is giant。其间峰谷陡峭,Waterfalls, withered rattan old trees, verdant greenMonkeys, egrets and herons, it can be said百态千姿;One scene at a time。难怪明代著名思想家Wang Yangming在游经此处后留下了《hjc黄金城登录注册》The poems and prose of,其诗曰:

The first day pupil pupil like sunset glow, rain marks new jidu veil;

Deep Jiuqu cloud Tibetan gorge, trees for thousands of years snow flowers;

White bird to side back to the post road, there is a family in the blue cliff;

All over the line of strange victory through this, the river without envy nine Hua。

On the dock of Liuguang River, there is a stone statue of Wang Yangming。

Standing in front of the stone statue of Mr. Yang Ming, staring at the green mountains and rivers, the cliff falls, as if I heard the gentle recitation of the ancient philosophers。

When Wang Yangming banished to write, put forwardThe philosophical thought of "unity of knowledge and practice" was known as the Dragon field enlightenment in history. Since then, the Xiuwen in Wujiang Valley has become the holy land of Wang study。

Xiuwen was called Longchang in ancient times, Qixia Mountain in the east of the city still preserves the relics of Wang Yangming's exile here-- "Play easy" and "Yangming Small Cave"。 1508年,时任兵部清吏司主事的Wang YangmingBecause of opposition to the eunuch Liu Jin, was lifted rod 40, relegated to the Longchang (today Xiuwen) post Cheng初到龙场,Wang Yangming居无处所,日子艰难,自叹:"I just wait for my orders, day and night for meditation, for peace.。”In a natural cave immersed in the "Book of Changes", the cave is named after“玩易窝”。尔后移居龙岗山。山腰天生一洞,土民称为“东洞”,洞颇宽敞明亮。自王阳明在此栖身后改称为"Yangming Cave", commonly known as "Yangming Cave"。There was water dripping on the roof of the cave, and the local ethnic minorities were concerned about its dampness and wetness, and felled trees to build houses on the lower right side of the entrance。王阳明"Where a gentleman lives, how humble there is", called "How humble room"。又在洞口左上方修建一小亭,亭子四周栽些竹子。王阳明以竹子具有"Gentleman's virtue", named the pavilion "Gentleman's Pavilion"

Wang YangmingAlthough he lived in the cave and seemed to live a celestial life away from worries, he knew in his heart,He is not Tao Yuanming, can in“采菊东篱下,悠然见南山”Life of中去打发时光。在面对艰苦的环境,官场失意之无奈,作为一位饮读诗书的读书人,他更多是感受到人生中最严厉、最深刻、最触动心灵、超越生死、平民与圣贤,穷极思变的问题,故其曰:"The mind is not rude in the Yi house, although the body is not forgotten."。He spent two years in the cave writing poems155篇(首),且首首荡气回肠,篇篇珠圆玉润。"Poetry expresses aspiration", the article is no different。Wang Yangming's poems always run through a kind of persistence, which is the tireless pursuit of holiness and nobility, the confidence of the future and the expectation of the future。

Since ancient times, the great man has suffered more, since ancient times, young man。正因为曲折、奇特、宏富的人生经历,Wang Yangming才得以了悟人生最真实、是平凡的意义,形成To one's conscienceIntegration of knowledge and action等重要思想进而造就pentana伟大的人格Force, became a model of a generation of Confucianism。

Wang Yangming在修文In three years, Longgang Academy was founded, and Wenming Academy in Guiyang was also established.Make Guizhou from now on the humanities, the atmosphere is wide open。阳明去世23年后,即In 1551, Zhao Jin, the governor of Guizhou, transformed Longgang Academy into the "Wangwenchenggong Temple", and Yangming Cave became the king阳明的重要纪念地。1814年,今Yangming Temple, Fufeng foothill, east of Guiyang City未修建之前,贵阳人也都慕名前往修文祭拜,或者面向修文遥拜。

Sage teachings, moral, speech, and action。Wang YangmingThe friendship with Xiuwen 500 years ago has become a cultural resource that Xiuwen and even Guiyang can continuously explore。

Since 2000, Xiuwen County has continuously held the "Yangming International Cultural Festival", through which experts from home and abroad exchange the research results of "Yangming mind Science"。Today, Guiyang City has identified the "unity of knowledge and practice, striving for the first place together" as the city's urban spirit, in order to enhance the city's cultural image。在2008年Wang Yangming“龙场悟道”500周年之际,贵州电视台高端访谈节目《hjc黄金城登录注册》走进修文,时任博鳌亚洲论坛秘书长龙永图和厦门大学教授易中天在阳明洞前,围绕“Integration of knowledge and action”和“贵阳精神”进行了一场真知灼见的对话。

Culture is the embodiment of soft power, and celebrities are intangible assets。Today's scholars have realized this and are gradually integrating culture and celebrities into urban construction。

Wang Yangming当年居住的The remains of "Yangming Cave" have now become a national key cultural relic protection unit。Around this core landmark, Xiuwen County built "Yangming Memorial Hall" and "Yangming Culture Theme Park", highlighting the style of the city with landscape garden space and Ming and Qing style streets。

During the period of cultivation, Wang Yangming not only formedHe wrote the philosophy of "unity of knowledge and action""Elephant Temple Record" and "Bury travel" were later included in the "ancient text" and became a unique song through the ages。Among them, "Bury Travel""Even the peaks of the sky, birds can not pass","The fox on the cliff is like a flock, the adder on the Yin hole is like the wheel."It describes the occlusion and barbarity of the cultivation at that time。When we went down to the Banpo carefully along the remaining post road to pay our respects to the dragon field and killed three young and old people beside the road, we no longer doubted the cut and paste of Mr. Yang Ming's words。It was heard that when Wang Yangming heard that three people old and young had become starved, he took two children to bury them, and wrote in "Bury Travel" :“道旁之冢累累兮,多中土之流离兮,相与呼啸而徘徊兮。飱风饮露,无尔饥兮”,字里行间,情真意切,无不催人泪下。I think that what Wang Yangming has done for generations of people with lofty ideals is precisely his spirit of thinking about others everywhere and stressing conscience and good ability at all times。Now fully500 years have passed, and the present Qianzhong cultivation is no longer the scene of that year。

 

息烽:不息的烽火

 

Follow the Liuguang River all the way north,便是息烽。

息烽明时为诘戎。During the Chongzhen years, due to the Jielong native Yi leader An position to surrender to the Ming, so that the local society of war to calm down, so Chongzhen emperor issued an edict more Jielong Rong Xiifeng。

During an hour's drive on the highway,汽车始终在起伏连绵I'm not counting how many I've drilled洞,横跨How many Bridges have you crossed? The most intuitive feeling is,不仅息烽,就是在 Driving on the entire Guizhou plateau,山始终与。Outside the car window, in addition to the marks left by the knife and axe in the near, it is the rolling mountains in the distance。Every time the car is hard to drive on the straightIt's on the side of the road when we speed up"Curve ahead" or "steep ahead" and some speed limit signs appear, and you have to relax the acceleratorThese signs are as frequent as the branches of banks on the busy streets of the city。

从高速公路下来,还有近一小时的省道才能到达息烽,而这段近似"Sheep intestines" on the road, at an average speed of close80The yard galloped down, shaking a car full of people迷迷糊糊,昏头转向,A few more people have a motion sickness reaction, and have to shout: Master, drive slowly!于是,客车不得不慢悠悠的From the top of a mountain along the winding mountain road, a bend and a bend in a sharp descent100米后,到达谷底息烽温泉

息烽温泉享有“国泉神汤”The title of。记得The hometown of Shiqian hot spring called"The first soup in the world", compared with Xifeng hot spring, I do not know who is more famous, has not made a comparison。However, in Xifeng hot spring, there is a,其Both sides of the door对联Very interesting,上联曰"Flying eight beautiful scenery in the clouds", the next joint said "the ground gushing out of a God soup", the horizontal is "a mu God soup without all diseases"。There was a spring of hot water under the door。蒸腾的泉水缭绕的雾气Yu PavilionOne in one, refreshing and refreshing。

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到达息烽,Our first target is, of course"The Military Committee of the National Government retired from the regulus"。 对于“行辕”二字,翻了一下资料,有两种解释,一指The old office of high officials;一指行进中的车。这个It's a lot of words称谓It makes us a little confused and difficult to deal with“行辕”At that time关押政治犯的“Concentration camp”联系In one piece。

因为小说《黄金城登录》,The movie "Eternal Life on Fire,"when,我就知道了渣滓洞和白公馆,但对于息烽Concentration camp,But some陌生。来息烽之后,我才知道,红岩And most of "Eternal Life in Fire.人物The head of the Communist Party of China underground Luo Shiwen, Che Yaoxian, Xu Xiaoxuan, Song Yiyun and his wife Xu Linxia, children radish, they最初是被关在息烽Concentration camp的At the same time, there was a prison hereYang Hucheng, Huang Xianxeng, Zhang Luping, Yang Xingmin, Deng Yanda, Ma Yinchu等重要人士。

据说当年蒋介石途经贵阳时遇汽车爆胎,趁汽车换胎之际打听得知此处名为息烽,心中暗想:这个地名好,于是在此地建造息烽Concentration campBe of great benefit熄灭燎原The revolution of火种之意。

息烽Concentration camp由Yanglang dam本部和Northeast face约7.5公里玄天洞囚禁处组成Establish in193811月,是抗战期间国民党设立的关押中共The biggest secret prison for people and progressives。Concentration camp对内称新监大学,对外挂牌是The Military Committee of the National Government retired from the regulus

Concentration campWhere this part isYanglang dam,其The terrain is treacherous, the rock faces steep,方圆Within 300 meters there are shrubs, trees, shading the skyEven as the plane circled in the sky, it was hard to spot its trace。Concentration campprison843间。Cell pressLoyalty, filial piety, love, faith and peace8字命名,称为忠斋孝斋仁斋等等。义斋为女监狱。Concentration camp1938年11月立至1946年7月撤销在近8For years, this huge secret morgul前后共关押政治犯1200多人,其中被杀害和折磨至死600余人,下落不明的400多人,幸存者仅100余人。The number of inmates is often kept at300400人,1943年高峰期达到600余人,是西南地区政治性最强、规模最大的Concentration camp。抗战胜利后,因迫于全国人民“要求民主、结束特务政治、释放政治犯”的呼声,19467The month revoked, except for killing and releasing part of the rest72人转囚至重庆白公馆And slag Zi hole

Concentration campOutside, there are ponds, courts, reading rooms,If you look at the appearance Settings, youYou don't know it was a living hell。但是,当你身临"Garden within Garden", after entering the "core" area of the inner circle where political prisoners are held,你就会彻底的改变看法,你就会觉得,那里有一股spooky寒气Towards you来。"Reflect on the prison", "fire and water fight", "pepper through the intestines", "drill nails", "wear hemp mourning" and so on系列刑罚,不禁让人creepiness,也reflect当今Regime establishmentIt's been hard and bumpy,让人从中realize那段Dark memories and the brutality of the struggle。

When we路过“猫洞”一个深达百米Natural cavernSee the yearIn the cave, the military agents inflicted cruel punishments on the revolutionariesTiger stool, fire, ten fingers nail bamboo skewers, wearing mourningelectrocution各种Instruments of torture,我Can't think ofLike, those countless revolutionariesHave suffered到过的折磨,那How neededCalm and calm, what kind of inner cultivation ability is neededAfter this section生不如死的考验!

We saw a picture of the baby radish head, and heHe was imprisoned with his mother when he was 11 months old until he was murdered at age 9Became the Republic's youngest martyr。Without a free and happy childhood, he的生命似流星过,短暂而明亮。听several有关小萝卜头故事,看了小萝卜头Leave behindWords and pictures,的内The heart has a kind of unspeakable desolation, for the disappearance of a young and talented life。I wonder how many years from now, when Radish's brothers and sisters come here to remember their youngest brother,是怎样悲恸State of mind

Inside the camp is a small artificial lake calledClear heart Lake含义不言而喻。A sign was put up by the lake for Dai Li题字No thunderbolt, no heartHere, people know what is called霹雳手段I didn't feel it at allkind-heartedWe hate that kind of thieving and inhumane behaviorAt the same time,Also the heart gave birth to a huge move, this move from the spirit of those revolutionaries, faith, personality, quality, as well as their vision and yearning for a better society。


 Wujiang Town:乌江豆腐


从息烽继续北行,经过大约1小时的车程后,我们来到了Wujiang TownThe Wujiang River starts from its northern and southern source and passes through Sancha River, Houhe River, Qixingguan River,Changxi RiverGua Chung RiverMukong River, Liuchong River, Yachi River, Liuguang River and so on, after countless times of changing the name, finally here has its official scientific name——乌江。

以江命名的乌江Naturally, it is the first town on the Wujiang River。

Wujiang TownLocated at the junction of Guiyang and Zunyi,座落于乌江两岸Before 1971, Wujiang TownIt's just a ferry, with only a few dozen families living on either side。People call it Wujiangdu, Wujiangkou or Wujiangguan。The cliffs on both sides of the river are abrupt, and the steep peak is a thousand ren, forming a natural danger。

Wujiang natural danger has been a key point of transportation since ancient times“黔蜀要津”之称。In history, iron cable Bridges and pontoons have been erected several times, and the folk have lamented that "traveling all over the world, sad Wujiang crossing"。Wujiangdu, because of its important geographical position and steep terrain, has always been a battleground for soldiers。On February 28, 1935, the Central Red Army returned to Zunyi after crossing the Chishui for the third time and pushed straight to Wujiang River。In order to prevent the Red Army from crossing the river, Wu Qiwei of the Central Army of the Kuomintang fled south in panic by cutting the pontoon bridge。 红军四渡赤水后,后卫部队诱敌于乌江北岸,造成佯攻贵阳的强大声势,红九军团则在乌江渡上游Ladder rock与敌军激战,于3月30日南渡乌江天险。

More than 70 years later, following the footsteps of the Red Army, we came to Wujiang Town

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而今,天险已不复存在,The smoke of war has been dispersed in the depths of history,From the bloody battlefields of remembrance眼前,这里是Spacious and clean asphalt road, novel and unique building group, unique green landscape……Wujiang Town,一个It is famous for crossing the Wujiang River during the Red Army's Long MarchThe town of随着Xifeng concentration Camp revolutionary history Memorial Hall, Zunyi conference site and other red tourist attractions heating up, from the past war followed"Get up。Of course, the reason for the "fire" is no longer the flying war, but another kind of "fire", that isBe praised as"A skill in the north of Guizhou is unique in China"“乌江鱼”火锅。People passing through Wujiang town, tasting Wujiang fish has also become an indispensable part of the tour。

Wujiang fish also known as erhu Zi fish, skin slippery meat waxy, no fish scale, the whole body a main bone, no small thorns, especially the head and tail taste more delicious!plusWujiang Town地方特有的Marinated TofuDelicate as fat, long boiled not old, smooth and delicious。Tofu is cooked with fresh fish and chili to make a delicious dish。有人写诗赞道:

Fish tofu red oil light, green onion garlic white ginger silk yellow。

Fat tender hot hot fresh fragrance full, delicious food forget to raise wine。

Wujiang Tofu fish has become a unique brand of food culture in Wujiang tourism industry。

More than 40 years ago, tens of thousands of hydropower technicians and workers came to Wujiang town to build China's first hydropower station in a karst region。在工地上,他们常常Raise the fire to drive away the cold饭,From time to time, fish are pulled out of the river and boiled in a big pot加入Tofu and bean curd各种Dishes, and add to the sea pepper, Sichuan pepperisorelishBe afraid of dampness and cold。The method of eating was later adopted by the locals沿袭下来,Used by some smart people to entertain past guests, became210国道线上名的饭店招牌菜。Over the years,一直Business is booming and the brand is enduring……

2005年,The Wujiang River has built a huge bridge directly above Wujiang Town凌空去,贵遵高速路新出站口建在了几公里外的养龙司。In order to facilitate guests from all over the world to taste the famous“乌江豆腐鱼”,Wujiang Town原Many hotels纷纷In the highway near the new exit opened a new store, hardware equipment, service facilities and so on are far more than to go,逐渐形成Wujiang town is a rich industry。

现在靠近高速The road of Wujiang Town has been thoroughly"Hotel Town", the whole town is a unified pattern of white buildings, the plaque hung with various sizes of "authentic Wujiang fish",当然,正宗不正宗取决于人们不同的味口而已。Said to be整个Wujiang Town上Have big fishMore than 60 companies, the annual turnover of more than 50 million yuan, tax paid more than 4 million yuan。一业兴百业旺。In recent years, Wujiang Town gives full play to its transportation advantages and unique Wujiang River basin conditions, and strives to build the image brand of "the first town in the Qianli Wujiang River" and enhance the popularity of "Wujiang Tofu Fish"。 At present, with the hot tofu fish, the town's fishing has gradually become a scale。There are 16 fish farmers in Wujiang Reservoir area.鱼年产量已达8000 tons, there are crucian carp, mandarin fish, river, sturgeon, silver carp and so on10Multiple varieties。In order to let more people taste Wujiang tofu fish,据说当地政府准备Taking advantage of the town's better water, electricity and road conditions, a new fish deep processing plant is built to process Wujiang fish into dried fish, canned tofu fish and other delicious products,远销外地。

在这个以乌江Named in the village, we sawThe word "Wujiang" has been deeply integratedLocal peopleOur lives are constantly creating more wealth and a better life for them。And for the Qianliwujiang River,仅仅Be a开始。

Wujiang water nourishes Wujiang fish and nourishes people along the shore. Abundant water energy resources also make Wujiang water play a greater role。在乌江大桥边,往来的人们都能看到雄踞于江水之中乌江渡水电站。Wujiangdu Power Plant, which was put into operation in 1983, isChina's first high-dam large-scale hydropower station built in karst areas。On the Wujiang dam, wide waterGreen as a mirror, four seasons endless, reservoir area周围,Beautiful scenery, strange peaks and different stonesIt presented the scene of a high gorge rising out of a flat lake。

乌江电厂大坝截断乌江干流,形成烟波浩淼的高原平湖,其两岸山水洞石和植被组成变幻多姿的自然景观,悬崖、瀑布、移民村落、亚热带果林、渡口码头、网箱养鱼经营旅游的水上人家组成极富诗情画意的江峡风光。我们驱车顺沿江山路来到乌江大坝上,观赏了这里秀丽After the scenery便继续北行……

 

Still Ji: Ancient Ferry witness history

 

Starting from Wujiang Town, we followed the Wujiang River to the east and north and came to the southeast of Zunyi

Shang Ji, formerly known as Snake pig field, according to legend for the Tang calendar five公元770年)罗The family is inBozhou pacifies the indigenous population against unrestafter屯垦之地,At that timeBozhou is one of the earliest rural material exchange trade fairs,也是杨氏、罗氏家族共同世袭统治的南部边关要地。

In the ancient society, the Wujiang River was an important trade road, salt road and Silk Road between Guizhou and the outside world。In the thousands of years of historical changes, the Wujiang River has also created countless ferry ports, which have not only experienced the prosperity of trade and trade, but also witnessed many historical events。The town of Sangji, where we arrived today, has it6个这样的渡口,其中追溯历史最久的Be a叫河渡这个地方。

Guided by local people, we trekked for nearly an hour along a rough and narrow path to find the site of the ancient ferry。

According to local人介绍,清乾隆三年(1738) Chen Yu from Licheng, Shandong ProvinceTo guard Zunyi, introduce tussah silkworm from Shandong,在遵义、尚嵇等地Teaching people the method of free stocking reeling, is still the first in Ji, Zunyi and even Guizhou silk textile industry,Thereby promote遵义府绸争价中州,远销南洋,遂为黔省首富之区也使Shangji Field becomes the southern part of BozhouvitalWater transportation hub and logistics distribution center。

It was built to commemorate the merits of Chen Yubi150多年前的The attic of Chan Kung Temple still stands in the centre of Shangji Town。The atticSit north to south, by the theatre, the main hall, the rear hall and two chambers composed of two into the courtyard, covers an area1617 square meters, for the beam type wood structure building, surrounded by a fire wall。The main gate is south, not on the central axis, round arch, and the three words "Chen Gong Temple" are inscribed on the front of the gate。Chengong Memorial Hall博采江南三大名楼(岳阳楼、腾王阁、黄鹤楼)建筑之长,挑拱重檐,绿瓦红楹,飞角流丹,风格独特,富丽壮观,喻意为尚嵇人民渴求文化、追求文明的智慧结晶。

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旧时Ancient salt canalThe Silk Road ran from Bozhou (present Zunyi City) through Shangji Field and crossed the river channel开阳、贵阳作为川黔两省交通要津And transshipment terminals for salt, silk, timber, etc.Channel crossing自然也就成为了A lively and prosperous place, itsBoth sides of the ferryThere are two provinces, Sichuan and Guizhou, respectivelyHedu Pass, Chashan pass and other customs and military checkpoints。

在过去,尚嵇This place盛产楠木。相传明朝年间,播州杨氏土司The nanmu trees that paid tribute to the court were cut in this area, inChannel crossing扎成筏子later漂流到下面的马场运走,这个地方后来便因此改为“Namutsu”。

Nowadays, there are no large Nanmu forests in this area, but the two sides still have our admiration喀斯特景观。放眼江畔两岸,The mountains face off and the cliffs are beautifulGreen trees layer on top of each other, lush, that is, this beautiful land, witnessing the history of the bloody rain, war clouds。

据资料载,明万历28年(1600), BozhoupacificatorWhen Yang Yinglong rebelled, He Duguan便It became the focus of contention between Yang's rebels and the official army。Ming Court to Li Hualong governor Huguang Sichuan GUI military affairs, mobilized24万大军,兵分8路进剿,其中贵州巡抚郭子章率领的黔军分为3路,贵州pacificator安疆臣率水西兵随贵州总兵童元镇征播,先攻克乌江关(今息烽遵义交界处)和河渡关,后在河渡关被杨应龙大军围困,黔军大败而归。Then the participation of Xie Chongjue led water west soldiers and other attacks again and to recapture Hedu Pass, Bo state rebels thousands of infantry骑兵猛冲水西兵,水西兵驱赶大象出战,但叛军以箭射象鼻,大象反冲,水西兵在慌乱中误投火器到自己营中,阵脚大乱,自相残杀,阵亡、溺死数千人The next day,Guizhou General Yang Xian faction guarding Wujiang300Soldiers out to scout the enemy, is encountering the water west uniform of tens of thousands of rebels, rebels will300After the killing, the Qian army put on the clothes of the Qian army and killed the Wujiang River, the Qian army did not suspect that the rebels attacked it by surprise, cut off the pontoon bridge, and defended the Wujiang River3万黔军将士阵亡More than 27,000 people, bodies scattered across the Wujiang River,Dyed red江水此战成为平播战役中最惨烈也The highest number of casualties战役The Battle Pass贵州全省震动河渡口以及贵阳Nearby residents rushed into the city for shelterAt the same time, Yang Yinglong's rebels also attacked Hedu Pass, fought across the Wujiang River, and captured Song Chengen, a native of water east stationed at the horse farm on the south bank of the Wujiang River, into Bozhou。

杨应龙叛乱After the peace,时任贵州巡抚郭子章于万历29Year (AD)1601) led the army at the riverCrossing the South BankSweep the battlefieldCollecting the remains of fallen soldiers埋葬,建起一座Ming Zheng sowing war dead soldiers together tomb,并亲自题写碑文。

崇祯Year (AD)1629), due to the river渡有旋滩不利于渡船, plus the plain battle against the riverCrossing the huge damage, then by the garrison participation He Mou and tea tax officer Zhang Wendeng and other donations silver river渡迁到更利于渡船的Horse farm (now Nanmu Du Town) andChashan Pass,新修了NamutsuChashan Pass ferry and ancient road on both sides, and written by Zunyi 庠生 Zou Shishi carved stone stele。崇祯3年(In 1630), Zhou Weibi, a native of Kaizhou Sheep Farm (now Longgang Town, Kaiyang County), donated his private property to help the ferry.It is the main road from Guiyang to Zunyi and Sichuan in Ming and Qing dynasties, and also the only place for salt merchants in Sichuan and Zunyi。thereforeIt is a battleground for all generations of soldiers,"Qianshan Shushui" the monument of the ancient division of Xinjiang is named in the Chashan Guan cliff70多年前,After crossing the Wujiang River on the pontoon bridge, the Red Army was stationed at the Wujiang River, Datangkou, Taotai, Heudu, Chashan Pass and Nanmusudu ferries at the junction of Zunyi and Xifeng and Kaiyang.Qingkeng Revolutionary Committee was established in Chashan Pass。In order to strengthen the security along the river, the Red Army also built fighting fortifications and pillboxes on the beam of the Chashan Pass。A wounded Red Army soldier died in the Chashan Pass after ineffective treatment, and the local people bought a large coffin and buried it at the pass, setting up a memorial every year。

Today, the monument, the Red Army Grave, still stands quietlyChashan PassKodobon。

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伫立在古渡You can vaguely hear the sound of the horses' hooves of history echoing on the ancient post road, and the winding ancient road has precipitated how much hard historyLook at the ferry, both sides of the cliffs, Jiajiang confrontation, the river is covered with reefs, since ancient times has been called“乌江天险”。here,多少人会心潮澎湃,思绪万千,在汹涌奔腾的乌江水的巨响中,想象当年红军抢渡乌江时那密集的弹雨中,滚滚的江水里,英勇的红军战士一路奋勇前进,是何其艰难,何其悲壮。

History has become a passing cloud, today'sShangji TownWith this red culture to continue to inspire themselves, with the spirit of the Red Army to continue to encourage themselves, on the road to build a new home, with diligence and wisdom to describe a new picture。

走在尚嵇On the spacious and tidy streets of the town, the old dilapidated has long been gone, and what comes into view is the row upon row of phosphorus buildingsRows of green street trees decorate the new appearance of the townShopping malls, supermarkets are full of all kinds of goodsnewly-built街道Straight and wide, and at night,The lights are twinkling, the lights are shining,将大街装饰成一条灯火辉煌的巨龙,奔驰的车辆穿梭在街道上,Horn soundSeems to be singing about the changes in this town。

2007年Only two kilometers from Nanmu Ferry,Chinalco Group Zunyi alumina plant settled in Shangji Town, so that the Wujiang River, a century-old town overnight便成为遵义乃至贵州的焦点。同时,随着乌江下游构皮滩水电站建成,通过人工截流提升乌江水位,Nanmu Ferry pier is already Tongjiangda sea, merchants gathered。同时,Due to the natural environment of connected mountains and rivers and lush green,使尚嵇这一带成为集乌江水上观光、生态旅游、红色旅游为一体Be famous for...

清代黔北风流The talented Li Fengchuan in his masterpiece Wujiang Ode曾经道:

壮哉!乌江。莽莽苍苍,逶迤蜿蜒。源出黔西,浩浩荡荡。气势磅礴,北汇长江.如脱缰野马。似离弓飞镝。A thousand li long singing, the beach roaring。Through the rock and the crack, unstoppable。Da open back, home fierce embrace。Since ancient times, "the crown of a natural rift"。On both sides, jagged rocks, such as tigers and leopards, are changing。Graceful and graceful, ingenious。You can have a panoramic view of the scenery on both sides of the river。情涌心间,逸兴湍飞。In the morning, the misty river, the sound of the boat hidden。People walk through clouds, cars through fog。In the evening, the river is flowing red。Fisherman fishing Jiang Zhu, boatman singing late return boat。Waterfall hanging between rocks, mountain eagle shu wings blue sky。Apes cry in the valley, rare birds hide in the mountains。苍松翠柏,青翠欲滴。山青水秀,蔚为壮观。Four seasons hanging fruits, perennial flower fragrance。不是江南,胜似南江。What he said: "There are not three sunny days in the sky, and no one has three silver cents.。”去已矣,今昌也。尧天舜日,就在今朝。君若有逸兴,请到乌江游,真情陪君子,放桨击中流。

《乌江》一文优美antiquated,既是诗人对Wujiang River scenery, products, form的抒情赞美也寄托了Li Fengjie当年"If you have Yi xing, please travel to Wujiang, the truth to accompany the gentleman, put the paddle hit the flow" dream。And hundreds of years later, all of this has become a reality。I think, buried in the dust of history, the sage Lee凤翧Can be in the native land with a smile Jiuquan!

 

遵义:红色文化名城

 

On the north Guizhou Plateau, the Wujiang River flows all the way to the east尚嵇来到三星场附近。这个时候,它接纳了自北而南下的一条重要支流。我们沿着这条支流北上,不是因为它两岸丰饶的物产,也不是其水上便利的交通,而是它珍藏着关于一个城市,一段历史的记忆和情感,这条支流叫做湘江河,我们所要到达Place that...就是它所流经The history of文化名城——遵义。

源于Great Lou foothills的湘江河绕遵义城而过,宛若一条Dark green绸带,silentlyDivide Zunyi into two parts旧城新城,轰轰烈烈见证着这座历史名城的过去和现在。

遵义Shang and Zhou dynasties vassals small turtle country, Qin and Han times called 鄨 county, Tang, Song, Yuan and Ming times called BozhouIt is the border town of Bashu region against plateau tribal states。从唐末到明末的725年间,播州一直Under the hereditary rule of Yang's chieftain。1600年The Battle of the PlainLater, the sub-broadcast state for Zunyi, Pingyue twoArmy and people's officeRespectively under the Sichuan and Guizhou provinces。清雍During the Middle years,Zunyi Prefecture was transferred from Sichuan Province to Guizhou Province

In historyWhether it is bankrupt Han farmers moving into Guizhou to engage in farming, or businessmen entering Yelang countries to engage in trade, it is along the Wujiang River, Chishui River, Qijiang Valley云贵The interior of the plateau gradually deepens。那么,作为地处乌江北部Tributaries (Xiangjiang River, Mei River, Bian Yan River, Furong River and Chishui River tributaries Tongzi River)Shanjin pass, Zunyi has always been a constant business travel, official exchanges, scholars stop, formed a profound historical background and cultural atmosphereToday, as we come here,Beyond the starry sky of culture such as beach culture and mountain culture,Zunyi's经济Degree of developmentIt has surpassed most small and medium-sized cities in the mainland。

This is a concrete jungle and green trees complement each other in the city, for its development, we can only useTraffic flows like weaving, skyscrapers, crowds of peopleTo describe it歌舞升平的景象。

To this end, a friend of Zunyi was proud to introduce it to me“遵义城市名片”,说遵义现在拥有“中国革命转折点、中国历史文化名城、中国酒文化名城、全国绿化模范城市、国家园林城市、中国优秀旅游城市……”的名头。This makes my understanding of Zunyi easier。With the Zunyi meeting, the national wine Moutai culture as the precursor, and the Xiushan Lishui in the north of Guizhou as the backdrop, the natural achievement of today's Zunyi。

A historic city known for its red memory。Its charm is not limited to this, but it is still the most historical sense。因此,我们此行主要以红色的视角来打量遵义。

Led by friends of the Writers Association, we came first位于城市中央的Krasnofel。

KrasnofelViewed from above, the whole Zunyi looks like an Arabic numeral9,川黔铁路和National Highway 050 from the top down the right until exit,And the Red Army端坐在这个9字的中心弧线上。

9”在中国传统文化中,为"Yang", "just" and "straight" are the virtues of heaven and have the supreme positionThe souls of countless Red Army soldiers lie here in silenceIn, enjoy the supreme treatment, when the posterity is a comfort to their souls。

沿石级而上,Green pines and green cypress,一座Monument掩映在万绿丛中。碑的正面,是1984年邓小平题题的“Red Army martyrs永垂不朽”八个大字。At the top of the monument is the hammer and sickle symbol, which is also the symbol of the Red Army flag。碑的外围Be a直径20多米,离地面2米多的大圆环,外壁上镶嵌着28颗星星,象征着中国共产党经过28年艰苦奋斗,取得了全国政权。4 groups of white marble relief,There are Zunyi people welcome the Red Army, four cross Chishui and other pictures, these pictures in a touching art form, to people describe the war of the past。

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山上还There is青石圆坟,坟前立着一块石碑,上书“红军坟”On the statue at the grave, there were many red ribbons。Locals say the grave contains a Red Army medical officer who died trying to save local people。Although it was later confirmed that her name was Long Siquan, the local people had the impression of her as a younger Red Army medical worker, so they kept calling her"Little Hong" means "little Red Army"。In order to show the memory of the fallen Red Army soldier, many people come to wear a red ribbon...

As the early morning hours passed, Red Army Hill showed some solemn atmosphere in the quiet。70Over the years,人们没有忘记这些有名或无名的英雄。Whether it is the Qingming Festival every year, or any other dayThere are tourists from all over the country to remember, to commemorateRed Army martyrs。

子尹路,Yang Liu Street,我们Into the city page after page of red memory。

In early January 1935, the Red Army's Long March arrived遵义中央红军此时已从出发时的8万多人锐减到35万人,为了Liquidate Wang Ming's left-leaning opportunist line给红军带来的危害中共中央政治局在遵义老城子尹路96号柏辉章私邸的小客厅里召开了著名的遵义会议

遵义会议,确立了毛泽东在军事上的领导地位,之后,他以Strategic foresight and tactical surpriseAnd created one guerrilla war after anotherMyth, and成功地使欧洲的思想火花在古老的中国大地燃起A raging fire eventually burned a red China。

70多年过去了,弹指一挥间。斯人已去,The glorious achievements of the Zunyi Conference gave new vitality to the ancient city of Zunyi, making it a hero in the history of Chinese revolution城市。

The dragons have to fly from the first, the route is proficient in walking a line;

Right and left high and low can be corrected, the sky is unlimited。

This is Jude当年A poem written to commemorate the Zunyi Meeting。Indeed, the great Zunyi belongs to the Red ArmyThe place of "first", the place of "flying", the place of "mastery", the place of "flying"。It is the red holy land in the minds of Chinese people today。

Harrison, famous American writer and journalistSalisbury said, "There have been four great epics: the Israelites leaving Egypt, Hannibal crossing the Alps, Napoleon marching on Moscow, and the Americans conquering the West.。But they all pale in comparison to the Long March。The Long March is unique. The Long March is incomparable。”就是说,毛泽东领导的红军长征创造了人类的第五大史诗,而这部史诗最伟大的转折就是在遵义召开了一次关键性的会议

 

Songyan: Qian Bangxian and other mountain culture

 

在领略了湘江河畔的遵义红色情结之后,我们顺江而下,在领略了湘江河畔的遵义红色情结之后,我们顺江而下,进入了黔南州的瓮安地界,我们也就进入了构皮滩电站的库区,这一段河道被Local people称为江界河。Because Goupitan power station has been impused, the Wujiang River running all the way here presents an unprecedented wide and quiet。And just under this quiet water surface, sleeping ancient monuments, ancient roads, ancient trestles, ancient stone carvings and many other relics, especiallyIn January 1935, the Red Army broke through the Wujiang natural danger and captured it for victory遵义The passageway was opened, leaving the ruins of Red Army trenches, Red Army banners and Red Army pontoon Bridges……Its name is Jiangjie River Crossing。

Today, we walk Wujiang River, stop and stand江界河大桥——这座号称On the world's largest single-hole span bridge。Looking out, the mountains are blue, the sky is clear, and there are big white clouds floating。Down the line of sight, the wide river water is like a mirror, reflecting the hazy and fuzzy shadow of the mountain, completely without the year渡从流水On the ladder cloud, the green wave even rolls into ecstasy”的Spectacular sight。Those daysThe scene of the fierce war is also hidden under water with the river crossing, and the people who originally lived here also moved out of the valley with the formation of the reservoir area。但尽管如此,远处那深邃幽静的峡谷曲流,千奇百怪的峰林石柱,Still seem to beReek of70多年前那段硝烟弥漫的战斗场景,也似乎流露出对红军那份高山流水的情思

Entering the territory of Yuqing County in Qiannan Prefecture,我们Into the Wujiang tributary Datang River。Said to beMore than 350 years ago, it was at the source of this river that the famous "Jishan culture" was born.。So we followed the Datang River upstream to Songyan Town to find traces of the "other mountain" culture。

Under the guidance of the locals,Heading southwest from Pine Smoke2公里It took less than ten minutes to walk up the hill and find something。Along the road, primitive stone carvings can be seen everywhere。And the most striking thing is thatIn one piece大石头上的“他山”二字。The local people told us that he mountain was the name given to this hill by Qian Bangxian, a great scholar of Jiangnan in the Ming Dynasty, when Songyan lived in seclusion。

Qing Shunzhi7Year (AD)1650年)ciabong带着10余人从江苏镇江On the run沿贵州Fuquan, Weng 'an line by white mud to pine smoke, that南明兵部右侍郎Yuping peopleZheng Fengyuan与母Yu Songyan蒲村便前往探望。

Pu Village scenery is charming, the fertile land in the village, is surrounded by the green forest Dazhu, the village left between the two mountains72 spring, perennial spray jade, intoA small stream gurgled, with large banksMore than 100 willows棵,In spring and summer, the dawn dew hung beads and the smoke curled around有小Mountains, forest forest, there are countless stones, scenery show文人所追求“A paradise”。加之Zheng Fengyuan的一番劝留,ciabongThen decideJae Po Village过着隐居Life of。

ciabong用多年的积蓄Bought the hill on the right side of Pu Village and the one below部分土地,并将Koshimatori“他山”

The name "Other mountain" comes from《黄金城登录》山之石,可以为错”;“山之石,可以攻玉”。No matter what"Attacking jade" or "being wrong" refers to the sharpening and carving of jade。Qian Bang oxin take "other mountain", and put自己之后出家The norm sign is“大错”,expressedBe extraordinaryThe utmost loyalty of抱负深沉的思乡情结。1654年,钱邦芑During his captivity in Guiyang, he wrote a poem:

才说求生便害仁,一声长啸出红尘。

精忠大节千秋在,桎梏原来是幻身。

 

扭械萦缠是夙因,千磨百折为天伦。

虚空四大终须坏,忠孝原来是法身。

 

前劫曾为忍辱仙,百般磨练是奇缘。

红炉火里点春雪,弱水洋中泛铁船。

These are three poems that are both Confucian and Buddhist,诗中内容既表达From the authorI would rather be broken, impenetrable, sworn to defend“精忠大节”Confucian thought of loyalty, filial piety and righteousness, and明确地表露了The author changed Confucianism into Buddhism and transformed Confucianism into Buddhism"Chosho out of the red world" to find the ultimate meaning of the long-cherished wish。诗句 "The spring snow in the red fire, the iron ship in the weak water," is further than the heroic feeling of "a rod across the sun and moon", and the sad wish to the Buddha is greater and stronger。For Qian Bangzhi, although life and death are uncertain and the future is dangerous, but he has a quiet mind and a righteous life. It seems that there is no insurmountable and insurmountable difficulty。

ciabong走出囚笼后,Xiuwen Tidetide temple shaved hair,自云“大错和尚”,寓“今是而昨非”之意。Then he returned to the Songyan Mountain and took his residence柳湖居改成“大错庵”。

1656年ciabong永历帝去云南。确切地说,他要从一个和尚Reverted to a Confucian official in a secular life world,他要再次在凡尘中充当与扮演一个辅佐皇帝反清复明的重要角色,他要去Realize himThat's not enough精忠大业的夙

临行前,他审石度意,在拜石亭四周的奇石上留下了"Other mountains", "money opens little singing place", "jade screen Dongtian", "library suitcase", "plum Cang" and so on20处石刻文字。石刻 Next to the text of "little money singing place",注明题刻时间“永历丁酉春题”,其忠于明室的意图很明了。他Entering the mountain is a Buddha, leaving the mountain is a scholar, also a Buddha is also a scholar, also a scholar is also a Buddha。However, he never forgot that he was in the late Ming Dynasty“孤臣”与“遗民”。

In 1658, the Qing army attacked Guizhou and YunnanQian Bang material know Nanming Qi has run out为避清军追杀,在外颠沛流离近两年,辗转到达了佛教圣地鸡足山

Been through a lot, right nowciabongIf the heart is still water, the devotion is to the Buddha。又从一个儒官变成了和尚,变成了Chickfoot Mountain一代高僧了。Although he fluctuated between Confucianism and Buddhism, inThe role of "Confucian" and "Buddha" changed back and forth, but it seemed that the frontier had been decided, and he was going to be a monk。As a practitioner and a participant,鸡足The mountain is rare high, deep and empty, perhaps it isciabong心灵的理想栖息地。

如今,When weInto those poetic inscriptions of Qian Bang, into his flowing poetry that will never dissipate,们已分明的感受Chambong以及他山文化独特The culture of魅力。By the picturesque Willow Lake,在那结草为庐的"Xiaonian Nunnery", Mr. That lofty speech of the voice seems to come in the distance...

 

River crossing: The ancient Yelang ferry

 

Heading east from Yuqing along the River,A winding mountain road in rapeseed flowers crisscross the fields, one by oneWhite and whiteThe folk houses in the north of Guizhou are hidden in the bamboo forest。As a common traditional residential building style in the countryside of Qianbei area, Qianbei residential buildings have been endowed with a new era connotation: new countryside, new life and new consumption concept。

Behold, those single-family houses, showing themselves in the wild;Those who live together in a village, are row upon row on the natural platform, scattered。这些民居,大多依山傍水,屋面呈双坡水斜状,覆盖小青瓦;端檐垛脊,石灰粉壁,木纹漆墙,雕栏门窗;整个造型平缓、流畅、优美,与山水融为一体,凸现黔北民居风格。Behind the house, the mountains are green, the vegetable garden is green, and the fruit forest is red;In front of the house, the river pond, the fence, the field。Such a residence, people seem to enter the Tang Dynasty landscape poet Wang Wei Wangchuan villa, into东晋陶渊明的A paradise中。的确,The establishment of "Four rural homes" as the main body of "Qianbei residential houses" has become a business card for the construction of new rural areas in Zunyi。

Out of Zunyi, into the Tongren area, the Wujiang River has been quietly passing through the mountains and valleys。When the water became wider and wider, the first dock of Wujiang in Tongren area came into our sight。

古码头取名闪渡,坐落在石阡本庄的乌江河畔已不知多少年岁了。Young people come to the docks to ferry, fish, and play, but few know its origin。

Get off the boat from the ancient ferry to Shiqian on the left bank and climb along a thornied path to the surface of the waterAbout 100 meters up the hillside, there is a cave formed by Karst geology, and the locals call it Fairy Cave。

In fact, there is nothing unique and strange about the fairy cave, the hole is not more than ten meters deep, but a few feet wide, although there are small holes in it, but people can not pass through。And there is no stalactite in all its different shapes。Therefore, the fairy cave can only be regarded as a stone hall overlooking the Wujiang River。Local people之所以将这个平淡无奇的石屋大厅,Be called神仙洞,是因为这洞里曾经生活着their祖先,为了表达对祖先的崇敬与膜拜,他们便管自己的祖先为神仙,神仙住过的洞当然就叫神仙洞。

遥想春秋战国时,一支由百多僚濮人The canoe team formed from Jingchu along the west of the Apeng River to Gong Tan into the Wujiang River, upstream……

At that time,The water of the Wujiang River was not as fierce and menacing as it is today,In the middle and lower reaches of those large and small dangerous shoals such as tide Strop, new beach, Gong Beach, etc., are later formed by landslides,所以,These canoes composed of ancient Liao Pu people were able to successfully reach the River Sheandu this uncivilized wild land and quite mysterious deep canyon。However, the thunder cave rapids above the river have already formed, where the river channel is narrow, the beach is steep and rocky, the waves are rough, Liao Pu canoes can not pass。Coupled with hunger, disease and conflicts with the aborigines along the way, only 50 or 60 men, women and children remained of the hundred-strong Puren。他们只得在此弃舟登岸。

These Liao Pu people were going to climb over the mountain and move on。但天色已晚,他们只得到处寻找栖身之地,以防范毒蛇猛兽的侵害。Halfway up the mountain, suddenly found a cave。洞不深,少了几分阴森恐惧,洞不宽,却可容纳200百多人。而且,在洞的周围,桃林遍布,树木葱郁,绵延数十里无人烟,Be a遁世隐居的绝好去处,于是,他们决定在这个与外界相对隔绝Place that...悄声无息的住扎下来,打猎捕鱼,拓荒耕植,繁衍生息。

“神仙洞”于是便成了僚濮人在劫难中的重生之地,他们here躲过最漆黑的夜晚,又here接受第一缕晨曦的照耀,他们如vernal燕子,here筑巢孵雏,再分飞天涯。The descendants of these Liao Pu people are known as犵僚The place where they live is called"犵 Lightning Crossing”。

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犵 Lightning CrossingThis has been the case since Kaiqian Province。This is the ferry地名最早的文字记载。在犵 Lightning Crossing”名字Behind,We can see from it that the land of Heshandu belongs to the living area of the Gelao nationality in ancient times"Word of this含有侮辱性的The writing also reflects the feudal dynasty's discrimination against ethnic minorities。直到共和国成立之后,犵僚The two characters were renamed "Gelao".。

犵闪In addition, there are "Ge Zhang Du", "Ge Shan Du", "Ge Shan Du".Sundo", "each crossing", "good crossing" and so on。Now people call this place "River flash", some say because it comes from the local dialect.Talk with thunder”之意。民间Have a custom语:“河Flash thunder thunder rain, prepare clothes to wash后来,船工纤夫们为了避讳“闪”字曾一度将“River flash”称为“电光渡”。

These different place names reflect the history of river Sheandu in different periods from a certain Angle.经济文化的发展State sum社会状况。

According to Shiqian County Annals, Qin YingzhengIn 28 years (219 BC), Yelang was placed in the west of Shiqianjing, which is the earliest record about Yelang's setting that I have found so far in the local county records of Guizhou。

想想看,当时来这里居住的僚濮人,随着种族的扩大,人口的增多,这些仡佬族的先民们从石洞中走了出来,在乌江的两岸凿石为基,搭建窝棚,建起自己的家园。之后,他们中的一部分沿东南方向翻阅大山,行走7公里到达本庄,与早已穴居thereat的少数苗夷在交往、杂处In the processThey blend into each other's brawn and open up the forest。

Around the end of the Warring States period, the descendants of Liao Pu Miao Yi migrated west from Benzhuang to the area of Heba Field

河坝场地处石阡西部Edge zoneSouthwest and Yuqing Longxi border, northwest and Phoenix隔江相望,是石阡进入贵阳和滇地SeodaemunIt is an ideal place for men to cultivate and women to weave。

In their opinion, here'sNatural condition和外部环境远比River flash那奇峰幽谷、绝岩溶洞、险山恶水Place that...Adaptation to humans生存It is also much better to live in a place that is closed on all sides and difficult to draw water。They rely on this relatively remote and lush land,The rain-rich mountain area of the basin and the ethnic minority, Han, who later moved here together,Live and grow,And in this intricate mountain valley between the establishment of a rather mysterious color,让现代史学家们一筹莫展、争论不休的夜郎古国,河坝场也就顺理成章的成为夜郎古国的中心所在地。In the 1950s and 1960s,由于砍伐原始森林造田,人们就在河坝场Found a large scale of ancient building foundation remains, and legend has it that bamboo slips were found here,sorry是未能得到保护。In the absence of a great deal of evidence,The idea that Heba Chang was the center of Yelang culture has not been accepted by historians。At present, it is generally believed that the center of Yelang culture is in the Cola area of Hezhang County, Bijie area, because2001年,可乐遗址古墓群被Be calledOne of the ten new archaeological discoveries in China。And the dam site, because there is no archeologist patronage excavation, there is no large-scale water conservancy project construction, perhaps those amazing secrets are hidden under this thick soil。Perhaps one day, these secrets will come to the surface, and the central place of Yelang culture may fly from Kola to the dam field。

借助于河坝场,从那时起,River flash就开始设渡口。At the same time, River Sandu is also an ancient and important shopping mall on the Wujiang River water transport line。According to Qing Qianlong "Shiqian Fu Annals" : Ming and Qing dynasties set up Shiqian Fu tax reporting department here, Qing Xian, the same year, the Qing army set up a gold card here, collect gold to fill military pay。After the establishment of the Jianghan peasant regime, the Army set up Lanbai Chang (shopping mall) here to develop the activities of the peasant revolutionary base area。During the period of the Republic of China, an inspection bureau was set up here to collect tax money。清光绪三年(1877)Ding Baozhen, the governor of Sichuan Province, undertook the management of the Wujiang water transport route, so that Sichuan salt was transported smoothly from Sinan to Hexandu。Because the Leidong Beach in the upper reaches of the Wujiang River was not navigable at that time, the journey to Yuqing, Weng 'an and other places could only be carried by the porter and the back foot along the dry road to transport salt, grain and other goods, so,From the end of Ming Dynasty to Sichuan salt into Guizhou,占据地理优势River flash成了Northeast Guizhou地区食盐、山货等重要物资的集散地,也是川入黔和黔货入川的最后码头Some wealthy households and traders took advantage of this important business opportunity to set up shop and inn here。Recently, some archaeologists have discovered the ruins of commercial houses in the Ming and Qing dynasties on both sides of the river Sheandu,According to historical records, in Shiqian CountyLarge font size,凤县境内的“新字号The "big font" left only a few ruinsThe "new font" is on a grand scale,一层层青石垒砌的沿山坡迭次而上的Alley, courtyard wall, courtyard dam, step edge……On the right, there is a lane, also a post road,清嘉庆年间Yeah, over two meters wide, gutters on both sides从山顶直伸江边。From top to bottom, near the river bank,有两米多高的石碑《hjc黄金城登录注册》"Wu Gong Yi Du", "Good luck Purdu" three pieces on the roadside,The river flashed acrossThe history of。

Along a bumpy roadway or驿道Down, overlooking the flowing Wujiang River, gazing at the swaying green bushes and rolling mountains on the other side of the cliff, I can't help but think of the scene of that yearRow upon row掩映于树荫竹丛In the green tile buildings, on both sides of the Wujiang River like cowherd and weaver girl like day and night watch in the green mountains and green waters。And those coming and going boat bow, crossing the ship together with those loading and unloading, carrying the goods of the people seem to be the enthusiastic magpie, for the cowherd and weaving girl set up a bridge of love and embrace。So that Shiqian Fenggang two business firm tight在一起,联系在一起

然而,在过去Where trade is well developed, prosperous and located in a remote market, bandits always lurk in the dark around it。处于乌江中游,Shiqian, Fenggang two county edge, said"Wujiang natural danger" river flash crossing四面崇山峻岭、奇峰幽谷、It is a place frequented by birds and beasts, and it is also the best place for bandits to hide。所以,There have been bandits in River Sandu since ancient times, and merchants of all dynasties were often robbed and even killed in doing business here。In order to effectively prevent and resist the attack of bandits,The homes of River Shem do are both merchants and local people,High stones were built around the foundations of their houses,On the hill top of the house planted the bamboo forest worshipped by the nation,在竹林的掩映下面,修筑起防御的碉堡,The gun holes in each bunker were aimed directly at the docks and ferries。In case of necessity, in order to transfer safely, there are secret roads from the village to the river bank……

Rivers flash across every house for safetyOn the incense burner供奉General Yang Si”的Wooden statue将军”本是湘西一带民间俗信神灵In Xiangxi许多临水Place that...,都有杨。I do not know why the people of the river Sandu also worship Yangsi?而且,把每年的June 6, the birthday of General Yang Si, was set aside as a special daysacrificial日子。I think it may be because Liao Pu, the Gelao ancestor who came to live in Heshandu thousands of years ago, was himself from the Xiangchu area, and his descendants inherited the faith of the Hunan people in order to seek the roots of their ancestors?要不,就是当年here经商的人多为湘客的缘故?

folklore中的General Yang SiHe was a god of evil dragonsCheck at the water gate every spring。If it is Zhenglong who is making rain from clouds, General Yang Si will let him pass;If it is a harmful dragon, it will be cut into several pieces with a sword...It's also been said,将军就是南宋时Yang, the hero of the peasant uprising that swept the seven prefectures and nineteen counties of Jinghu幺,了纪念他而又Avoid the ruler's prohibition and punishment, so hidden取杨幺的真名,称其为将军……

River flash的People believe in Yang将军的原因大致有两点,一方面,People here不管是商人还是船工纤夫,他们常年与乌江打交道,下涪陵,到四川,路程中无不潜在着凶险和危机,因此,在水口把关检查的“General Yang Si”无疑是走船人所供奉的神;另一方面,“General Yang Si”是英雄,是维护正义的神,那些土匪就是作恶的孽龙,也就必然被“General Yang Si”的正义之剑劈为几段!

At the end of the Qing Dynasty and the beginning of the Republic of China, Sinan local businessmen Liu Weizang and Wu Guangting, mainly operating rice and soybeans, often shipped to Fuling for sale。后打听得知沿乌江cross-strait凤冈,石阡,余庆、湄潭、瓮安等所属地区,盛产大米、黄豆且大量囤积,价格十分低廉,很想从这些地方进货,以获大利。但当时的船只从思南出发,最远只能到达River flash,而之上由于有雷洞、银盆、水油、鱼翅三等滩的阻隔而不能通航,其货物只能靠肩挑背驮。Here, Liu Weizhang and Wu Guangting discussed together, organized the excavation, and sorted out the shipping。They used the River Shandu as a stronghold, and soon opened up the Lei Dong Beach, and further transported the silver basin, water and oil beaches, so that ships could go from Sinan to the Guopi Beach in Yuqing, the hinterland of Guizhou。The action of Liu Weizang and Wu Guangting to open up Wujiang River was supported by the local squires along the Wujiang River。In Gupi Beach, its "river repair Stele" recorded Yuqing gentleman Tian Yuzhang and other participating in the excavation of various beaches。"Weng 'an County Annals" also recorded squire Nie Songyun, Xiao Yuanxing, Yu Shilong and other financing chisel open the tiger mouth。The actions of Liu Weizang and Wu Guangting also received financial subsidies from the Yuqing County government。由于各方支持,很快打通了最大的鱼翅三险滩。At this point, Wujiang waterway extended to Meitan river crossing, straight to Weng 'an river boundary river。

According to the "repair river Stele" records, when the ship first passed, the residents of the hundred miles along the coast wished its success with wine, food and fireworks。Here, Yinjiang flower cloth, Sinan Xiong sulfonate, transported by water to the river, and then transported by land to the provincial city of Guiyang。翁安、余庆等地的大米、黄豆沿乌江船运至思南。Every time, Sinan River dam wharf often meters boat three or four hundred。Trade boom。"Repairing the River monument" also said that after the dredging of the Wujiang waterway, the people of the two mountains have a family to start a business is not difficult, and those without resources are easy to find food, business is developed, and the source of profits is sufficient...The old do not fill the gullies, the strong do not scatter the four sides, etc., to praise the achievement of this fairway dredging project and the feat of benefiting the people。

However, with the continuous excavation and navigation of Wujiang Salt Road to the hinterland of Guizhou, the river flash crossing has also lost the favorable conditions for businessFade away…… 

现Present in我们眼前的除了Thousands of years of wind and frost, everything seems lonely。Most of the people who lived here have moved closer to the road,Only have...3姓文的人家还在凤冈的那岸,像忠实的守望者,Accompanied by history accompanied by the immortal waves from the heart of the river。The three old houses that remained“标本”,在苍翠的竹木,一台一台的屋基,在断墙The ruins and old fortresses stand out against each other,的瓦片似乎依然With the prosperous scene of the year, the carved stone water tank in the kitchenIt's a testament to the age of time。每幢房屋壁、木柱在与风雨的搏杀中无不耗尽了生命,显得破败不堪、千疮百孔。A river wind blew in, picking up dust。The stone basin in the corner of the house has been idle for a long time, plain face in the sky, revealing a little lonely and helpless……

On the other side, the plantain tree in front of the ancient house is still fresh, bearing the fruit that no one cares about。

 

石阡:Number one in the world汤

 

从River flash沿着乌江顺流而下,江水一直平静且温柔,我们到的这天,天空一直放着晴,沐着日光行走江上,心情也自然跟着晴朗了起来。

The Wujiang River flows to Tangtou town in Sinan, and also ushered in its first big tributary in Tongren area——龙川河。The two rivers meet in the green mountains, which looks particularly beautiful and spectacular。And we are in the mouth of the two rivers, through the Tangtou, along the Longchuan River upstream, to reach Shiqian。

石阡是个美丽的小城In the county, Longchuan River runs through the city and finally flows into the Wujiang River。踏上石阡的土地,Naturally, I feel a sense of home, hereStrange mountains and beautiful waters are full of compelling temptation。其中让人深刻便石阡的温泉。

我们走至温泉门口,From time to time, people who have just bathed come out in front of them,No matter what男女老少,One by one脸膛红润,Full of energy,especially那些倩女少妇,如彩云飘逸,Graceful and graceful,I ran a comb through my hair as I walked,身上飘着淡淡的清香,让我们的目光禁不住在她们的身上久留而不愿移开。

In 1936, there was one瑞士籍,R.a. Bosshart's British missionaries passed through Shiqian on the Long March of the Second and Sixth Armies of the Chinese Workers' and Peasants' Red Army,曾在温泉洗澡,After returning to China, he wrote a book called The Hand of the Gods,Which introduced the building of Shiqian hot spring and the Red Army officers and soldiers after bathing full of spirit, face rosy, very“快意”的情景……The Hand of the Gods has been published several times in the West。Making Shiqian Hot Spring famous in the Western world。

Shiqian hot springAlso known as Chengnan Hot Spring, located in the southern Songming foothills of the county,龙川河东岸。Green spring water from the stone gapSteaming hot的冒出,像Throw pearls and pour jadeRoll if boiling soup, its sound its potential, feel your pressure。不觉想起一联:"Not gentle tang landscape, through the ages wind Shiqian city。”

早在16世纪以前的明朝,温泉的水便得到了充分的利用。清光绪二十年(1894年),当时的石阡知府赵尔巽,曾将温泉水引出,雇工修石槽引水入街,每10余户左右设石池一座蓄水,供民众日常洗涤和防火用。In case of drought, nearby farmland can be irrigated。暖流一泓,直通全街。百姓深感赵公之德。后赵尔巽调任贵阳,离任之日,父老依依,挽足泣留。Zhao Erxun could not leave, for the feelings of the people, so he took off his boots as a souvenir。After that, people set up a pavilion on the west bank of the ancient bridge, called "Zhao Gong Pavilion", the north end of the street, built "Si Zhao Gate", hanging boots for people to pay their respects。Zhao Erxun became an official for the people, benefited one side, was loved by the people, and sincerely set a model for future generations。 In the nearby suburbs, farmers also use hot spring water to soak seeds and raise seedlings, which is very effective, which is one of the reasons why Gaozhai to Dujiazhai ten thousand mu of good land can harvest year after year。After that, the Shiqian Fisheries Department introduced African tilapia and raised it with hot spring water. The warm hot spring water solved the problem of overwintering this tropical fish with its unique superior environment。This kind of fish with high yield, easy feeding and beautiful meat flavor can settle down in Longchuan River。But most of all, hot springs benefit people by bathing。

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In the early days, hot springs were not covered by buildings, and people used Wells as pools to swim in the clouds and sunshine, called“温泉浴日”。In the thirty-fourth year of the Ming Wanli (AD 1606), Jiang Da Kun, a Yunnan man, chisel the hot springs into two large and small springs。Since then, successive governments and people have undergone several modifications and expansions,There is a long corridor, there is a Jingting, Wu Hou temple, Taibai Temple, Dou Mu Pavilion, tea house, stone pagoda and so on。Unfortunately, all these old buildings were destroyed1956 in the construction of Shijiang road。Qing Qianlong 28th year (1763) governor Luo Wensi book engraved "hot spring Suyu" stone monument erected in the courtyard。Cliffs and stele are left on the river bank and cave entrance。温泉一时成了骚人墨客吟诗作画,修心养性的好去处。According to legend, Li Bai, a great poet of the Tang Dynasty, was banished to Yelang through this, had written a plaque on the hot spring grass Pavilion, and then crossed the river to the west。So people in the hot springs, built"Taibai Temple" to commemorate the great poet。

古老The Dragon River倒映诗人抑郁而苦闷Beard and hairReflecting the back of the poet's melancholy是的,美丽的夜郎古城And the magical spring Yao pond did not retain the poet's footsteps。Emperor Xuanzong's amnesty made Li Bai and Shi Qian only meet briefly, and then they returned to Chang 'an。This is undoubtedly lucky for the poet, but in Shiqian and the whole Qiandi Han culture spread, development and prosperity lost a rare opportunity。

热水自古称为"Soup", the ancients called Shiqian Hot spring "the first soup in the world"。There's supposed to be a difference between soup and water, and they say this soup containsThere are silicon, lithium, boron, strontium, molybdenum, cobalt and so on人体有益的微量元素,故被人们Be called“神汤”,其The effect of convalescence and health care has long been recognized by people。Zhang Heng's Hot Spring Fu in the Han Dynasty says:"When there is disease, there are hot springs。In the "Water Classics Note", it is said: "After the great melt mountain, warm soup is cured.。”.Shiqian County Records of the Republic of China"Winter bath is warm and cold retreat, summer bath is light and cool, night bath is stable sleep, tired bath is spiritual recovery.Cold bath to sweat out, and suddenly go sick;After the full eater bath can cure abdominal distension, can cure sore disease。长期洗浴,Keep skin delicate and moisturized, body fit, etc正是如此,Through the ages, through the cold and the summer, day and night, there is a constant stream of comings and goings here。

走进温泉大门A red corridor came into view, the left side of the corridor is a hill, and trees such as plane trees and elm trees stand on it, and palm trees and bamboo trees are planted along the corridor。The long corridor is about ten feet wide, which is not only a passage to the bath, but also a place for people to cool and relax。Railing overlooking Longchuan, boat cross ancient ferry, the size of salt ships, masts, before the call after the surge。Looking forward to the west, the smoke curling up and the countryside looming。The mountains in the distance are shrouded in clouds and mist...Qing Jiangning minister, nursing Liangjiang Governor Cheng ShiThere is a poem:"After the bath, lean on the fence and stand, the wind will be immortal."。

At the end of the promenade is a rocky cliff, its height towering ancient trees, mottled tree shadows remain on the ground dancing。Under it is a natural tunnel, which is the entrance to the pool。Inside the cave are grotesque rocks, whose walls are embedded in the Ming DynastyGovernor Wang Yunkui Shu Enjuan in Jiajing period"Washing the heart" and "cleaning the mind" four words。

However, in the Shiqian people's terminology,”被“泡”"Wash" and "soak", although both contain the meaning of "clean", but the meaning of bothComplete phase同,“泡”Lie in ainternal享受是一种情趣,“洗”Lie insimple去身体表面上的,很可能是一种被迫的行为Therefore, I think, if Wang Yunkui's questionThe word "washing the heart" is changed to "soaking the heart", although it is a little vulgar, but it is closer to "seeing sex".。At the same time, the word "hot spring" is called "Wentang" in the folk.。在石阡人看来,“温泉”是一种官方或书面的语言,表达的只是一种纯粹的自然景观,“温塘”却在自然景观的基础上,融入了更多的人文内涵。“泡温”是石阡人一天最普通、最寻常Life of方式,especiallyFor old people who are afraid of loneliness,“泡温”就像泡茶一样有情趣。

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At that time塘是Without charge它就Like a小小的市井,here所有的人,No matter what土生土长的Local people还是行色匆匆的过客,No matter what高贵还是低贱,No matter what老人、大人还是孩子,All kinds of people, all kinds of people, all kinds of people此。here,每个人都毫无顾忌的褪去衣裤,一丝不挂,犹如褪去了平日刻意的各种伪装,显示出了人生面目的真实与造物主的公平,也让人们清晰地俯察biotic来龙去脉,感悟充满雄性或阴柔的人体魅力...For those of humble origins who are thrifty by nature, this may be the only luxury in his or her life that can be fairly shared with the aristocracy。

Out of the hole, people feel a fresh, refreshing, the body seems relaxed, people also appear extra spirit, the skin exudes a light fragrance。回过头去,再看王蕴葵的“洗心”、“涤虑”四字,会忽然顿悟了它的The philosophical implication makes us understand the truth that hot springs are not only for rubbing the body and the back and removing the fleshTired and污垢And also是把心中的灰尘和烦忧洗涤干净。

The women's pool is separated from the men's pool only by a wall。Enter the gate, walk down the stone steps to the river, through a corridor, you will come to the women's pool。

In the past feudal tradition, the unique hot springs were originally only for men to enjoy。Women bound feet, it is not easy to go out, let alone go out to bathe。Last centuryIn the 1920s, the women's liberation movement advocated by men was vigorously launched on the land of China, and the construction of women's Pond was one of the symbols of women's liberation in Shiqian。Beside the woman's pool, there is a stone tablet, which reads: "The hot spring can be washed, the water can be clear.。男女有别,德不逾闲。”以此告诫那些居心不良,试图偷窥的男人们。

The structure and size of the women's pool is similar to that of the men's pool, which may have a layer of gender equality, of course, this equality is still different。R·A·勃沙特在《黄金城登录》中说道:“石阡城外的断岩外有三个温泉,最上面的那一个虽然小一点,但温度较高,主要供官员享用。The middle one is for ordinary people (men) to take a bath,The bottom one is for women only..."From this text introduction,我们不难看出,官员、百姓或男人、女人虽生活在同一片蓝天,洗浴同一样的水,However, people's deep-rooted hierarchical concept is still stubbornly reflected in the architectural structure of the hot spring,而且,这种金字塔式的观念在今天仍在可怕的延续着。

Except for women from the country or from other places and those unmarried girls,A woman in the city takes a bath in a hot spring with a basket made of bamboo strips on her back,It was full of all kinds of dirty clothes,They were soaking in the pond,While thumping and washing clothes at the outlet,真是一方两便。

女池最热闹时是每年岁末when,她们在家辛劳了一年,要到温泉里痛痛快快洗浴干净迎接新春,就是那些离城有二三十里地方的妇女也扶老携幼而至。还有,就是那即要出嫁的女人,在洞房花烛夜的前一个晚上,按照乡风民俗,必须here接受肉身最后一次的处子之浴And also是人生未来的一种洗礼和祝福。

人们把石阡称为"Spring capital" or "town of hot springs" is not exaggerated at all。石阡Be a地热资源丰富,露天温泉密布Place that...。除城南温泉外,还有吴家湾温泉,劝龙亭温泉,溪沟温泉,施场温泉,关鱼良温泉,两岔河温泉,木瓜溪温泉,回龙寺温泉,长塘河温泉和苏阳寨温泉等等。With the history of human civilization of Shiqian, the water of Tang Tang, with enthusiasm and never tired, pours into the Wujiang River, flows into the Yangtze River, and merges the sea...

 

Sinan: Guizhou Province ancient commercial heavy county

 

A surging and passionate music, under the precipice, Wujiang all the way to the rough waves here, the melody becomes soothing and graceful。Like the breeze blowing the string, the crooning of the fengtail harp...The ancient and beautiful Sinan City is located on both sides of the Wujiang River. It stands on the side of the mountains, and the houses are scattered and uneven.两侧山上植被茂盛From a distance, it looks like a freehand painting hanging on the edge of the Wujiang River。那横卧于江上的桥Like a thick pole, carrying the castle peak buildings, the sun, the moon and the stars on both sides of the river, under the contrast of Wujiang water, it seems to be chasing what。

On the ancient dock, several ships of different sizes were quietly moored along the river, where they were immersed in the glory of history……

早在2000多年的Yin Shang PeriodThe lower reaches of the Wujiang River are the range of activities of the Ba people。巴国强盛时,其疆土已达今重庆的彭水县一带。B.c.315年,Qin destroyed the state of Ba,从而取得了巴蜀丰富的盐资源和强劲的巴蜀兵力,Qin's ambitions have grown,In order to achieve the purpose of destroying Chu and unifying the world,In the 27th year (280 BC) of King Zhao of Qin, Sima Cuo "commanded one hundred thousand Bashu.,大舶船万艘,米六百万斛,The floating river destroys the Chu,Take the land of Chu merchants as Qianzhong County"。司马错由枳(今涪陵)出发,浩浩荡荡逆乌江而上,直抵思南一带,其场面蔚为壮观,这是乌江In history规模最大的一次军事行动,是In history乌江航运最早的记载And also是乌江航运最早通思南的侧面记录。

As Sinan Wujiang shipping opened, living on both sidesTujia and Gelao ancestorsTo the Wujiang River and its main tributaries along the river and the basin valley near the river for the rest of the family。They hunt and fish;Or cut through the thorns, reclaim the wasteland;Or set a fire on a grassy slope and spread seeds over the burnt ground……

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秦、汉以后,邻近省份和地区的苗族陆续入境思南定居,他们与思南的土家族、仡佬族先民和睦相处,相互学习,推进了思南古老的商业、种植业、养殖业和手工业的发展……

In the Tang Dynasty, the Wujiang River waterway became an important channel for Yun and GUI to Chang 'an。As in A.D.787年,南昭遣贡使分三路入京都,其中一路就是经陆路爬涉至乌江边后乘船而去;五代时,奖州(今岑巩一带)刺使石温处先后累计献军粮二十万石运往前蜀,其运输路线是先逆奖州境内龙江河而上。Then the land transport across the Yuanshui and Wujiang watershed, through Chong Zhou (today Shiqian) into Feizhou (today Sinan) shipment through Wujiang into Shu。

In the Northern Song Dynasty, merchants and merchants entered Sinan area through the Wujiang River and transported rice beans, pigs and sheep, and native products gathered along the Wujiang River。Therefore, Wujiang transportation is also very busy, and there are insufficient ships。The sixth year of Shaoxing in the Southern Song Dynasty (AD1136) In order to rush the military supplies, there was a shortage of transport capacity, so the government ordered the local wood to build ships to make up for the lack of capacity of private ships。Since then, there are not only private boats, but also official boats on the Wujiang River。

明初,思南不仅仅是沿乌江而上的石阡,凤冈、余庆、湄潭、瓮溪各府州县的物资集散装运的重要港口,也Is Guizhou Province最大的食盐中转站。Guizhou salt from ancient times to Ba salt, Ba salt through the Fuan, Qian, Yongan, Renan and other four ports transported to Guizhou。Among them, the largest volume of salt from Fuan against the Wujiang River, through Sinan transfer to supply Shiqian, Tongren, Zhenyuan prefectures。According to the Qing Daoguang "Sinan Fu continued to record" :"Its salt from the Shu five Dongqiao salt well transported into Guizhou, two easy to Sinan, separate roads sold, Shiqian, Tongren, Zhenyuan all the prefectures are also cited。Annual sales of millions of pounds..."。At that time, there were more than 70 companies operating resale salt in Sinan City。Then there is the great comprehensive department store, the cloth from the Central Plains, Chuan-Chu via Wujiang shipping to Sinan Port, and then resold all over the country。Daoguang "Sinan Fu continued to record" also "the western people invested in the purchase of goods and set up shops, Fuzhou residents and Jiang merchants transported Guizhou to various ports, and the department store was transferred to the big also"。同时,不论民间往来,Traders and businessmen go back and forth,历代军事运输,The court sent envoys to Yunnan-Guizhou and back,官吏的升迁,Guizhou's tribute to the court...Most of them go through the Wujiang River,经乌江必经思南,Old Sinan port has Ao home, Su home, stone home, Lu home four piers,usually,四大码头均无虚位。当时,为了迎来送往官员,人们在城南的乌江边建有接官亭;为了求乌江航运四季平安,建有祭江亭,每年春季,商人船工们都要来这里祭祀江神

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清嘉庆六年(In 1801), since Jiangxi businessmen jointly donated funds to explore and decorate the palace of Longevity, there have been people fromSichuan, Hunan, Jiangxi, Hubei, Guangdong, Guangxi, Anhui, Shaanxi, Ningxia, Jiangsu, Zhejiang, ShanxiBusinessmen from more than 10 provinces set up shop names in Sinan city, built guild houses, and operated salt and tung oil, wood oil, raw paint, gall nut, flower yarn, cloth, etc., which were abundant in Sinan。

In the period of the Republic of China, the Sinan traders were Luo Yi, and merchants came one after another。一度出现了店不敷宿,Not enough to spread,舟不敷载的现状,So that Sinan's trade reached the peak of history,This period,Some large business houses have appeared in Sinan City,There are Yi Fengyuan, Yue Lanhe, Zhang Yifeng, Da Sheng Ren, Da Lisheng, Yongji Company, Guangyuan Company, etc.;South South salt number,Sichuan salt branch, Zhonghe warehouse;There are Yilong oil shops set up by Sichuan businessmen and Yongji and Guangji oil shops set up by Hunan businessmen,There are also large and small mountain goods, medicinal materials, slaughter, dyeing cloth, restaurants, inns and other industries。

商贸的发展逐渐滋生出了思南近代工业的萌芽。

During the period of Hongzhi in the Ming Dynasty, a large number of Sichuan people entered Guizhou and came to Sinan. At the same time, they brought cotton planting technology, so the folk had hand-spun spinning wheels and wooden looms。The cloth dyeing industry also developed, and the common people could also make ten fingers (ten colors) from native silk reeling for embroidery。

明正德六年(In 1511), Sinan had a shipbuilding industry。In the Qing Dynasty, industry and handicrafts developed further。In particular, the textile industry, oil pressing industry and weaving industry developed faster and became the main industries of the local economy。

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There is no doubt that, like the rise and prosperity of any town along the Wujiang River, the heyday of Sinan's trade was all due to the opening of the Salt Road in the Ming and Qing Dynasties。Therefore, when it comes to Sinan's business, the topic we always can't get around is still salt。但由于这方面The history of记载太少,我们只能通过民间的走访形式,将我们observed及一些道听途说并且十分有限的事件附录于此,至于历史的客观和真相,只有让读者和后来的人们去进行评说了。

思南乌江航运以及人们的商贸活动虽然历史悠久,但在明朝改土归流以前,由于土司的统治,思南经济相对处于原始的自然状态,虽有集市,却只是一种简单的以物易物形式,其中尤以盐业最甚。In the early Ming dynasty, the horse was traded for salt“盐马贸易”。Ming Hongwu三Year (AD)1370年)实行商人“纳米中盐”,由地方当局登记缴粮的数量和种类,付给价款后,折算应支盐的数量发给运销商作凭证,然后到四川运回食盐按票付给老百姓。后又推行按口计量,以钞换盐法,此法苦了百姓。明洪熙元Year (AD)1425年)水德江长官司张沂奏称:“部符令民计口纳食盐钞,贵州郡县皆洞溪蛮民,自耕自食,商旅不至,无货易钞,乞赐免纳。Emperor Xuanzong of the Ming Dynasty instructed the Ministry of Household: "In the remote places of Guizhou, there is no reason for the barbarians to get money.?朕方绥抚,欲安其业,若令盐钞,而未必不致惊扰”。After that, the barter method is restored。After the Ming Wanli, it gradually implemented fixed business, quantitative, fixed-point sales, to the Qing Dynasty, the formation of "official supervision, commercial transport, commercial sales"。随着流官的不断更迭,流官的亲戚朋友随来经商者增多,加上乌江航道的整治,航运的逐步通畅,四川、江西、两湖、两广、安徽、江苏、浙江等地商人陆续涌入思南境内……思南终成为Northeast Guizhou地区川盐集散中心和商业重镇,The achievement of Sinan Fu Anhua streetMore than 70 salt labels and other trade houses。

Anhua Street located on the east bank can be described as the historical context of Sinan, and its street is named after Anhua County。从万历三十年(1602) Since the establishment of Anhua County, the name of Anhua Street has a history of more than 400 years, and the street name has remained unchanged for hundreds of years。Through more than 400 years of history and existing patterns, we can see the vein of Anhua: a solid wooden frame,深深挑出的屋檐,长长的青石板地,Residential houses, shops, temples, halls and other buildings built along the shore,Along with those cliff stone carvings and stone tablets on the river bank,All of them show the profound commercial and cultural heritage of Sinan Ancient City。

Walking into Anhua Street, I only felt the waves of thick ancient wind and the salty air scattered……

In the Ming and Qing Dynasties, the businessmen from Jiangxi, Hunan and Sichuan were the most active in Sinan。他们主要经营川盐。To this day, there are still well-preserved people around Chuanzhu TempleThe "Heshun Salt" of "Zhou Jia Bucket"。

Turning into an alley, the ancient wall separates the hustle and bustle of the street, as if entering another world。

Into the door, the eye is a simple stone fish tank, a peng green grass, a few small fish leisurely swim to swim。It is said that the water in the aquarium has never been changed since it was injected in the Qing Dynasty, and after more than 100 years, it is not rotten or smelly, and it can raise small fish, and its mystery is not clear even the descendants of the Zhou family。On the outer wall of the stone jar, Xiangyun flowers and four lifelike bats are in four corners.The three characters "Water heart Pavilion" are fan-carved in the middle, meaning "accumulate good people".。Left and right are engraved with a joint: "different grass pei an house, pond fish leakage machine", the fourth word of the upper and lower links together, just the Qing Dynasty Sinan county name "Anhua"。

The "Heshun Salt" was built during the Guangxu period of the Qing Dynasty.为一进四合院,It consists of the main hall, two chambers, the hall, the salt warehouse, the kitchen, the gantry, the small garden and other buildings, there are大小20余间房屋,The lighting and drainage treatment of the whole Siheyuan is very reasonable,The roof around the patio slopes inward to receive rain,Let the rain water return to the hall,Because people think "water" means "money.",According to the local custom "rain is gold.,下雪是银子”,The rain of the Sihe courtyard means that money is rolling in from all sides,Highlight the national psychology of accumulating wealth and good deeds。In residence, the master also attaches great importance to the ritual order and moral ethics of the patriarchal system。Take the north as the right position, live for the elders;In the middle is a hall, and there is a shrine on the wall to worship the gods and ancestors。The main room is connected with the east family room and the west kitchen, and on the left side of the main wall of the main room, there is a small door that leads to the back garden and the passage of people。The east and west wing rooms are combined with the north and south houses to form a Siheyuan。东厢房为男子居住,西厢房为女子居所,严格遵循男左女右的原则,而且在东西厢房构建尺度上是东厢房比西厢房略大,屋脊也略高于西厢房,非常讲究“青龙压白虎,不让白虎抬头”的封建礼仪。On the left and right sides of the vestibule,It was mainly used to sell and hoard salt。The salt barn has strong moisture-proof ability “明道”和“暗道”相结合的排水系统,院子地基下有一米深的暗沟,所有的排水孔均通到其中,雨水汇集后流入乌江,因此无论下多大的雨,房屋内都不会积水。

门窗历来是民间建筑文化中十分活跃的因素,它除了通风实用的功能外,还以其多姿多彩的立面造型展现民居主人身份和排场,体现主人审美品位和地方建筑文化的物化内涵。

正厅窗扇上,刻有"It is difficult to start a business, not easy to maintain, but loyal but filial, diligent and thrifty" 16 seal characters, both family history and family training, passed down from generation to generation。On the window of the side room on both sides of the carving is "ice crack", meaning "cold window to study hard", the elegant elegance of the house of poetry and books is like an eye。至于福禄寿喜、耕读渔樵、二龙抢宝、犀牛望月、野鹿含花、四福捧寿、龙凤呈祥、岁寒三友、一品清廉、麒麟送子、为善最乐等吉祥图案,更是琳琅满目,栩栩如生,其双层镂空的雕刻手法独具匠心。There is still a block of stone in the backyard, which is drilled with round holes and engraved with words such as "jack and two". It is said that this is the stone weight code unified and customized by the Qing government, that is, the weight。Culm mound was called "right" in ancient times, and the word "balance" comes from it。It vividly reflects the history of fair trade。

The owner of the current house, Zhou Yehong, said his ancestral home was Gongtan Sifang Well in Youyang, Sichuan。其祖父周镐璜生于清道光年间,自幼孤哀,家境贫寒,十多岁时,带着一把不到半尺长的刀独自一人溯乌江而上,来到思南,经营小本生意。After the help of friends and relatives in the township, opened the salt number, named"He Shun", from Fuling will be transported to Sinan, and then sold to Shiqian, Yinjiang and other places。

Zhou Haohuang after a struggle, relying on integrity in Sinan gradually established a foothold, after marrying a local girl, landing roots。However, at that time, Zhou Hohuang"He Shun" in Sinan more than 70 salt number, not very big。During the Tongzhi period of the Qing Dynasty, the opportunity came when the government had a batch of salt, which had to be transferred to local salt merchants because the market was becoming saturated。For a time, Sinan's major salt labels were eager to get this batch of salt。After fierce competition, Zhou Haohuang's Yanhao won。A few years later, the "Heshun" salt became the leader of Sinan Salt, and it cost 30,000 silver yuan to build the "Zhou Heshun Salt" we see today.。

生意做大了,有了钱后,周镐璜依然秉承过去的诚信,不囤积居奇,不坑蒙拐骗,并且每月还给官府捐资,以用于饥民、流浪者的安置等。This practice also affected his descendants, it is said that during the Anti-Japanese War, Zhou Haohuang's son donated a lot of money to the national government, which was used to buy guns, ammunition, medical supplies and so on。

Today, Wujiang shipping has lost its former glory, and the expensive Ba salt of the past has been replaced by modern cheap bags of iodized sea salt。思南More than 600 years of salt transportation history has no trace, large and small salt is either bankrupt and sold, or is covered by modern steel and cement。The "Heshun Salt" alone in Anhua Street has undoubtedly become the last witness of Wujiang salt transport。

 

Tide Strop: Qianzhong first Golden Beach

 

Take a boat from Sinan and go down through Bucket Well and Buried Shoe Creek to Dejiang潮砥。

Chaodi Ancient Town is located in the southeast corner of Dejiang County, Guizhou, on the east bank of the Wujiang River。处于hereTidal stropIt is the fourth broken beach on the Wujiang River from Fuling,以雄、奇、险、峻闻名遐迩。素有"The tide blows back and the thunder blows away."Said, when Sichuan salt into Guizhou here and became a dead end。Now it's flattened, cleaned up for traffic, but still magnificent。

The beach was formed in the late five Dynasties。在喀斯特地貌的贵州高原,由于地质和地理结构的因,乌江两岸的山峦曾多次跨蹋,无数巨石阻截河道Form the Yellow River Hukou waterfall trend……断航千年的Chaodi Beach and Chaodi ancient town were formed by this section of the river的山Collapse correlation。

Tsuyoshi宋代叫叱吼滩明代叫狮吼Tan, Sinan Fu Chronicle describes:“其水亦乌江之流也。Hole down more than ten zhangs, sound like a lion roar, boat Mo can do。"Legend in ancient times of China,大禹奉玉帝圣旨,到神州大地治水,他疏通了九河之后,Driving the colorful god ox came to the Wujiang River,从Wujiang source头疏理至此,Suddenly came across a golden hairy lion,Show one's teeth and claws,Roar loudly,Block the way,因狮为兽中之王,神牛胆怯不敢前进。大禹见此情形,怒火中烧,手执赶山鞭,从神牛背上一跃而起,直刺金毛孽狮喉咙,孽狮不及躲闪,只见一股鲜血奔流如注,孽狮因剧痛狂吼不止。After the lion died, it turned into a stone mountain, and its throat became a water cave, flowing for years with pure spring water that never dried up。狮吼滩也因此得名。From the poem "Lion Roar Flying Stream" by Ankang, Sinan of Jingtai four years of the Ming Dynasty, it is known that the Lion Roar Beach is one of the ten scenes of old Sinan in the Ming Dynasty。诗中形容此处"A strange rock is like a cow floating on the water, and waves are like a horse in the air."。

Whether it is the Song Dynasty's Scolhao Beach, or the Ming Dynasty's Shihao Beach, I think its name roughly means that the beach is like a giant wave to the sky, and the sound is like a lion roar and a tiger roar。清代,狮吼滩易名为Tidal strop。According to local people, Chaoji Beach was also called Chaoji Bo before。Sinan Fu Chronicle lists:"Under the Lion Roar Cave, the water flow here is calm and not anchored。Merchants in this Yi boat down, arrived in the Chuanjiang River, even Jing Chu Yan。Wangwen Shengyi, the tide of the Qing Dynasty I think its artistic conception is more reasonable。因潮字带水,When the tide rises, it beats like waves on the shore;A whetstone character contains stone,无数乱石堆满河道。There are both dynamic and static, although the word "Chaoji" is not as vigorous and imposing as Chidhao and Shihao, it seems ordinary but hidden mystery, giving people more aftertaste and imagination……

From AD1958 goes back more than 1,000 years,在陆路交通inconvenient潮砥堪称乌江这一黔地Silk Road上的“楼兰古城”From Sichuan into Guizhou bar salt, cloth, department stores and so onIs through潮砥,源源运往Sinan, Shiqian and Zunyi Fenggang and other places, and by overland pack to Dejiang, Yinjiang and other inland mountains。凶险而又特殊的地理位置,使The tide strop becomes a huge waterway on the Wujiang River顿号Cargo carried by ships from the south to the north因这顿号而在此打住……

During the reign of Guangxu in Qing Dynasty, the imperial court dug a plank road along the river on the east bank of Chaoyudan, and built a SLATE street surface to connect the wharf between the upstream and downstream……潮砥于是便unify个vitalThe freight station became a wayfarer's stop, where all sorts of people met,Merchants from the south and merchants from the north gathered here,各种商品在这流通……由此掀开潮砥辉煌The history of直到解放初期,这里依然是民间商品贸易的集散地,Big and small商船频泊Place that...

whettish两个码头,以滩为界,分上下码头。上码头处于峡谷口,向上的地势宽阔平坦,江面烟波浩淼。经过亿万年滔滔江水的冲刷洗礼,形成江岸那号称黔中第一金滩”其Cover an area of1.2万平方米的沙质洁净的开阔地带。This open area is where the merchant ships from Sinan came to unload salt and merchants talked business,相互交往Place that...。而今,昔日的辉煌情景Have passed away。这里已成了晚饭后Tsuyoshi乘凉休闲Place that...,老人们聚here,看着日夜奔流的江水,想起悄悄流逝的时光,涛声依旧,不知带走多少难忘的故事,流淌着多少难言的情感。

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沿一条青石板路往1公里便到达了下码头。仰望头顶的山崖,Traces of landslides from thousands of years ago can still be discerned, The massive mountain was torn in half by the forces of nature。那些Big and small的石头,Some still lie on the beach today,占据了大半河床,Even after years of reef blasting,The river channel is still as small as a narrow canal。The lower quay is located on the eastern bank of the canal about ten metres high,A staircase of bluestone strips leads to the river。

介绍,过去的码头It used to be a very crowded placeMerchant ships along the river anchored here day and night,At night, trade exchanges were carried out, and the painted boat yachts were exchanged in the river, and the lights were brilliant on the river bank。A lot of junk on their backsFrom the depths of the mountain into the dock, again将换来的食盐From hereInto the wild mountainsThe crisp pounding sound, the heavy breathing sound回荡在山间。

小小的古镇,当年haveIt is said that the exchange of silver tickets in Sinan, Yanhe, Dejiang, Yinjiang and other places can only be carried out here;And big and small百家商号,操纵着One third of the province's salt贸易……

You can imagine how busy and lively the ancient town of Chaodi once was, from Sichuan to Guizhou各地商人All stop here and hurry,他们穿着绸缎、摇着精致纸扇,Into the shore of the flower house, hug each other, comfortable listening to the sound of wind music, or intoCertain family或客栈或茶铺Sitting in the courtyard dam, listening to the sound of the Wujiang River, telling the strange stories of their travels south and north, the journey of labor and dust are washed clean in the sound of the river。而船工And the teners在一个小酒馆里,Smoking a pipe大碗大碗喝着烈性包谷Drink one's fill之后便胡乱的吹嘘着荤heterogeneous故事讲述他们在漫漫长旅中如何做一些偷欢的事末了To increase people's credibility,还来一句地道的土话Who is fooling you?It is my brother's wife那时,他们全然忘了还守在In the house老婆

How much joy, how much sorrow, everything has become a fossil beside the Wujiang River。

现在Present in我们眼前的除了一堆之外,一切都显得平静。The ones that were built near the docks华光溢彩的酒楼、茶馆,灯红酒绿的戏院、花房In all the fires and floods, only ruins remain, grassy grass;those进出上下码头江浙湖广And here商贾,The boatman, the trimmer, had long since scattered and was nowhere to be seen。潮砥,就像一艘已经完成了使命的木船,静静地停泊在乌江河畔,又Like a阳光下站着的老人,把biotic光环投影在了峡谷的绝壁之上。

现在的潮砥已没有了古镇的面貌,当年的一场大火与洪水,让历史变迁中的潮砥街道以及两侧的房屋早已没有了古韵古香的影子,一slouch的砖楼和瓦房纵横交错的混杂在一起,I can't believe it. This is the place where businessmen and rich people once gathered一方Chaodi ancient town?繁华落尽,让人There was an inexplicable surge of melancholy in my heart。

虽然已找不到潮砥旧时的房屋楼馆及繁华的影子,但狭窄的街道上却呈现出另外一番特别的景象,除了一些公共建筑设施之外,几乎家家户户的门前都堆放着小山似的从沙滩或河底运回来的鹅卵石。

Over the course of thousands of years,乌江cross-straitA large number of stone quilt in the mountains and valleys水中,乌江The power of running water roaring and wild years of denudation, erosion, washing, grinding, flow andUnder the influence of geology and external forces,从而formedA large number of deep meaning, attractive pattern stone and modeling stone。

With the changes of The Times and the development of the market economy, these natural stones suddenly doubled their value and became noble commodities。

1989The beginning of the New Year一些Guangxi peopleThen one after another came to the tide Whi,在乌江河里寻找奇石。They go back and forth three or four times a year,And with full-time diving personnel and diving equipment, each departure is dozens of tons of goods。According to localSay, theyCollected stones,Mainly take出售,为大型Hotels, gardens to provide supply

TsuyoshiRecognize the pebbles in the riverWhen it can be changed into banknotes, it is easy to follow the footsteps of Guangxi people盯上了乌江石Each family sent people to drive cars and boats around the Wujiang River all day, and the large and small stones mined from the bottom of the river filled the beach and filled the house。

一方水土养一方人乌江Shipping once created the glory of the history of Chaoji. When the modern traffic pushed the Chaoji to the edge of the market and was gradually forgotten, the Wujiang River became famous for its stonerearTsuyoshiThis is another gift from Wujiang to the Chaowhi people。

The beauty of nature is that it creates countless wonders and leaves vast Spaces for our imagination。

The reason why Wujiang Stone is favored by people is thatWujiang strange stone形、纹、色、质俱佳,With several major elements of stone appreciation,其形类人象物,;Its stripes are varied and easy to roll;colour古朴典雅Pleasing to the eye;Its quality is hard and delicate, smooth and smooth;其意含蓄幽雅,韵味深长。In addition, there is another important reason is becauseWujiang Sand电站开工建设,随着As the interception and storage time approaches, the Wujiang Stone will all be submerged in the reservoir water,As a resource that can no longer be obtained, Wujiang stone has undoubtedly become the last song of nature in the tide。

 

沿河:乌江百里画廊

 

Wujiang River into the river, encountered the Wuling Mountains after the block, accumulated huge energy of the river water like a sharp axe, open mountains, cross cutting mountains, inThe mountains and mountains are full of obstacles奇峰罗列In the pentium, the Wujiang River has become a particularly magnificent and dangerous show, and because of this, it has achieved the beauty of the whole Wujiang River section“百里画廊”。

我们到的这天,天空一直阴沉着脸,同行的Local people说,今天的峡谷算不上美,假使天空放了晴,阳光穿过峡谷再映得一江波光粼粼的样子,一定会让我们惊呼神奇。

但其实,在我看来,The beauty of "Hundred Mile Gallery" has nothing to do with anything else, this is originally a magical land that is remembered by nature, and from the first moment I saw it, I was intoxicated and difficult to extricate myself。

From the tide of the Dejiang River down the river, through the new beach, weEnter the first gorge along the Wujiang River Gorge——Jiashi Gorge。

Jiashi Gorge两岸Strange peaks rise, grotesque rocksThe wind howls through the gorge, the river surges, and the sky is blueThe river is like a gap.From time to time a clear stream flowed out of the col,挂在绝壁上,在湍急的江水中发出清咽连绵的回音……

As an ancient poem goes:

Jagged rocks all over the river, angry waves such as flowers rolling snow。

A group of birds over the dangerous shoals。

这正是Jiashi Gorge的写照。East Canyon岸群峰中,有一峰如thin女,俯首望江,含情Like a永远的守望者;而那流动的江就像船工们注定漂泊的灵魂。All this,似乎在上远古土家女与Boatman's生离死别,诉说着一个Sentimental, sad love without ending故事。

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Jiashi Gorge, by looking at the card, came to the Qitan。Because of the water storage in the Pengshui hydropower Station reservoir area, it was originally“险”著称的淇滩,如今只见一面平缓江水了。

这里之前的乌江两Shore vegetationA primitive ecology that hides the sun from the sky,The trees are big and the vines are thick水急浪高时过河的人只要抓住On the other side of the extension of the vine can swingGet to the other side。又说远古时候,曾有一仙人骑马跃过此滩,故A surnameLater generations on the grounds of the beach from the water, renamed Qitan。古镇也因滩而得名。

尽管现在险滩奇景已不再,古镇却依然令人神往。

Dating back hundreds of years to decades ago, Qitan是沿河最大的集市,在陆路交通闭塞而主要依靠乌江运载货物的过去,这里乃是沿河南部片区以及通往德江、思南、秀山等县的水陆交通咽喉,加之淇滩为乌江On another dangerous beach, although it is not as dangerous as the downstream cat beach, it is not as bad as Gong Beach, new beach,潮砥No, but the river is narrow, the current is fast,Cargo on and off ships must also be loaded and unloaded here on the dock,Therefore, from the wooden fish hole on the beach to the Pengjia ferry under the beach, wooden boats waiting to load and unload goods stretch across the river。For a long time, on the open stony beach, there lay the salty sweat, bloody barefoot feet and worn straw sandals of generations of boatmen, tenters and back-men。Roaring ships mixed with roaring river waves sing the prosperity of an ancient town。

于是乎,那些南来北往客商便In an endless stream的聚集here,小小的场镇顿时热闹起来,客栈茶馆、饭店酒楼Salt warehouse shop, stilt building, fire sealing Tongzi慢慢More up, folk song stories, wild history second story便代代传了下来……

At that time, every market day, the town's tung oil lamp would not be turned off all night, and it was very busy。

When Qitan people talk about the past, there is always a kind of can not give up, lingering nostalgia。From talking with them, you will feel the Qi Tan无法面对现实无法From lossSigh withTheir biological clocks are stuck in the good old days。They are always nagging people about how brilliant Qitan was in the past, trying to get those outsiders to share their ancestors there奢华和富庶Life of。

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沿淇滩的街而行,是One stone after another was inlaid together, its roughness and sharpness erased by the hurried travel of dignitaries and peddlers,岁月打磨得Flat lightOn both sides, the well-preserved salt number, teahouses, and inns all tell the story of that period of business exchanges and prosperous years of the market。我们的影子在街面的石板上晃荡着,单调的脚步声Hit the SLATE, making it狭窄的街巷显得Much better。Looking past the ancient town's arched mountain gate, the narrow streets are in阳光与炊里,Filled with a kind of quiet mysterious atmosphere, but also seems to unfoldHuan Qin and Han Dynasties竹简,上面记录着淇滩古镇的沧海桑田。

顺着淇滩乘船下行,经猫滩、沿河县城、出五门滩,乌江以雷霆万钧之势,一泻千里之速,冲出山高谷深的黎芝峡后,在贵州思渠与重庆酉阳后坪的菜园铺之间,咆哮成烟波浩淼的回水坨,这突然之间变得有些温柔平静的水域,却翻卷着一个让人creepiness,憾人心魄的名字“百尸沱”!据说,在In history,Countless salt ships are crossing the treacherous shoal of Lizhi Gorge,After being knocked over by the waves,那些遇难的无数船工纤夫的尸体被浪涛冲刷而下,here,Floating on the surface of the water with a swirling accumulation of layers,在雁阵惊寒,暮鸦聒噪中,Their ghosts seem to be here and they don't want to leave。

“百尸坨”,There are also the ancient towpaths winding on the cliffs and extending in depth, which seem to take our sight into the distant history。站在时间的In the canyonThink back to thatSome have witnessed the age of cold power with their livesThe way of the gondoliers,Their hard back and that exciting song and that magnificent life has graduallyfreeze-frameThe history of the river is full of lifeWindow of light。Through it, we can see乌江People live on both sides of the strait through the ages象。

We can not help but sigh that human life is so fragile and so great。It is because of the countless generations of ancestorsThe river was born of the zigzagging ileum, of the horror of the beach, of the primitive helplessness of the shipFinally, because of these lost lives, it promoted the prosperity of Wujiang waterway and promoted the development of local economy。The mighty river, every spray, all recorded the difficult footprints of the ancestors when they developed Wujiang。

After the Baishtuo, into the Yintong Gorge, in the fault gap between the mountains, I saw a clear stream, winding from the east to quietly into the Wujiang River。

If you follow the stream to its pure source,Both sides of the valleyStrange peaks and rocks, green trees, karst caves。Dark green山涧溪水之间,珍禽展示着兽的乐园,奇草盛开着花的异彩,delicate着春的歌唱。The majestic limestone faultlines and the rushing water in the valley create a wonderful natural landscape。这里It is the famous Mayang River national levelForest and wildlife nature reserve。Protected area面积3万公顷,被确认为全球最大的黑叶猴种群分布地,是动植物的天然宝库

在银童峡,There are two dangerous shoals, Prince Zhang and Yintongzi.Suddenly it Narrows, the mountains rise,其滩The waves roll and roar。The sound of the river lapping on the bank can be heard constantly。我想,这声音大概是银童子与张公子为了睡美人而发生的千年口角。Sleeping Beauty is made up of several beautiful mountain peaks。远远望去,Like a graceful,Charming and charming少女,千百年来,美少女静静的侧睡在郁郁葱葱的山林中,一言不发的凝望着银童子与张公子因她而起的争斗,就像当年战国时期巴楚之间为盐而引起的争夺战一样。She did not know which side she should lean to, and her eyes were filled with tears of confusion白鹭洒落成江面的鸳鸯

Out of Yintong Gorge, through Maodu, into Tuotuo Gorge。

At Tutuo Gorgeoneness岸边There isrun-down石屋,伫立在峭壁上,以老去岁月unify幅现代木刻屋顶上有一根柱子Stretch up to the skyIs said to be a navigational signal杆子……

由于Wujiang Jai这里突然拐了一个大弯,No matter what顺水还是The ships against the water can not see the ships sailing opposite, coupled with the strong current, the most prone to collision events。所以人们A navigation signal station is set up hereGongtan station。绞From the Ming Dynasty。To help wooden boats cross the beach, peopleriverfrontCut a hole in the rock and put a long about2 meters, diameter of 50 cm wooden stick inserted孔里,用纤Wrap it around a stick, thread it across a bar,然后Push the crossbar rotation, pull the wooden boat on the beach, commonly known as“天车”。Read the history of Wujiang River, roughly DiaotanWent throughMoving beach, manpower, mechanical beachThree stages。Now, Wujiang stranding Beach has become historyYet this了的人力Gongtan station,它却There are so many amazing stories, heroic people。It is said that when Li Bai, a great poet of the Tang Dynasty, was exiled, he entered through this station石阡夜郎,留下了许多忧国忧民的诗。Tian Qiu, an educator and poet in Qing Dynasty是从这个Gongtan station离开黔地山外的世界。贺龙率红军转战乌江开辟黔东革命根据地时,贺龙Wearing a bamboo hat, dressed as a fishermanSquatting on the rocks by the Garland station了三天三夜的鱼,终于率领伏兵Recaptured a salt ship that had been hijacked by Nationalist forces……而今Gongtan stationWhat remainsThe stone piles, the ruins, the SLATE road, still vaguely let people感觉得出它往昔的繁

In the dirt pileAbout to enter Gong Beach, I saw两岸青山连绵The peaks are like screens江流曲折Deep and beautifulIf the Lijiang River in Guilin is exquisite beauty, this is the magnificent beauty。Mountain male, peak show, water clear, beach risk, stone beauty, Jing secluded, like a naturalLandscape scroll。这里In addition to the magnificent beauty, there is独特的石韵。In the canyon, it is often seen that the stone walls on both sides are like knives and axesstonelikeIt is formed by the turbulent river water after thousands of years of scouring, coupled with the river wind, so that this precipitous cliff more than a beautiful stone rhyme color。这些石纹与Compete for beauty峰峦一起,构成了百里画廊撼人心魄的充满力感的抒情。

进入龚滩,就进入了整个乌江最为凶险Place that...。

Here, boulders lie in the middle of the river, blocking the flow into a wall, waves several meters high, water roaring like thunder, coming and goingA boat passing through here is like death's door, almostShip capacityIn safety闯过这里。船只一旦不小心的滑入此滩,便定是船毁人亡在乌江的盐运史上Bawang Beach不知吞没了多少船只和多少船夫The life!Whenever an accident occurs, Wujiang River suddenly mourned, dozens of ghosts活生生的被埋葬在ruthless里。江水无情人有情,岸上,亲人们那一片片撕心裂肺的The sky shook the earthResound through峡谷

现在The Gong Beach in front of us is not the Gong Beach that it once wasOnce the Gong Beach has followed彭水电站的蓄水而淹没,龚滩的“滩”和once“镇”已不复存在,只在江边newly-built木楼中,改行做起旅游接待的龚滩人会热情地指着一幅幅以前照下的照片,给旅客解读龚滩once古典与神秘。

走进新龚滩We walk along a lane, winding path through the quiet place, when the peak turnsSuddenly there is another touched, it is not only the strange creation of nature, but also the profound accumulation of social civilization。

 

To the Yangtze River 

 

从重庆龚滩往下,进入王坨峡,江面宽阔,水平缓如镜,两岸Green bamboo drooping, swaying colorful,The trees are green, the mountains are like screens,景色Deep and beautiful。In a bamboo forest, there are hot springs from the rock gap gushes out, clear as jade, fractional strands into the river, in its place, hot fog, vast。Local people将这温泉Be calledFountain de la BelleI don't know.Does the name "Beauty Springs" come from《黄金城登录》“绿草苍苍,白雾茫茫,有位佳人在水一方”意境?Anyway, this是大自然赋予沿河The amazing and unique resources of the people。It is known as the gateway of northeast Guizhou洪渡古镇,就On the shores of this beautiful and magical valley and hot springs。

Hongdu, as the gateway to the northeast of Guizhou, is located at the confluence of Hongdu River and Wujiang River。

从地理学来看,大凡两河相汇之处,河流亿万年的地质运动将会here形成大小不等的冲积平原或三角洲或平台,洪渡也不例外,被两河冲刷而成的宽阔的平台的确像一支整装待发的“筏子”。Hongdu RiverFrom Meitan Wanma Township by Fenggang, Wuchuan passing through the field, after searching, after the vicissitudes of life, finally in the left side of Hongdu town and Wujiang encounter。

Hongdu River两岸其Karst natural landform created a strange mountain怪石A historical relic formed by thousands of years of cultural precipitation,The well-preserved bamboo trees, rare birds and exotic animals complement the Wujiang Gorge, making Hongdu ancient Town appear more obviousColorful, magical and charming, majestic and charming。

Last century80年代末,以洪渡镇为中心,西至后山坡,东到乌江河岸,南至四方石村,北至王坨一带,发现了有大小几十座砖石结构的汉墓群和汉砖瓦窑群,并出土窑坯、泥模、花纹公母榫砖、绳纹筒瓦等珍贵文物。This shows that more than two thousand years ago, Hongdu was densely populated, ceramics have been very developed, and productivity has reached a certain level。据涪陵、彭水、武隆等县市方志记载,其境内的乌江河畔均发现大量汉砖瓦、汉窑与汉墓,形制基本相同,表明这是同一时期的文明遗存。Think of more than two thousand years ago, Hongdu here green, deep fish fat;The ancients built kilns and burned bricks by mountains and water。The kiln fire, reflecting the red half of the river, reflects the scene of living and working happily。

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In addition to the long history and very developed brick and tile burning, ceramics, the rise of Hongdu Town and all its later everything has an inseparable relationship with salt。虽然,清末民国初期,Salt ships from Fuling unload their cargo at Gongtan, a few kilometers upstream from the ancient town,However, due to the fact that the Hongdu River is the only way for water transportation on the Wujiang River,It was also in the first place when Sichuan salt entered Guizhou,In addition, salt ships are affected by the ebb and flow of the river,The stay time is as short as ten days,For months,长相往来的盐运大军,形形色色的各类商人便利用空暇时间常在洪渡歇脚,And engaged in a variety of business, trading。他们身上流出的汗水和盐混合在一起,在小镇那长长短短、坑坑洼洼的泥地路上留下了经年累月难以磨灭的印记,使得小镇一时兴旺无比。At that time, in the Hongdu freight terminal, thousands of sails racing, thousands of boats gathered, in and out of goods, bustling, showing a prosperous scene。

Today, due to the construction of Pengshui Power Station in the lower reaches of the Wujiang River, Hongdu has become a high gorge flat lake in the Wujiang River, and Hongdu Ancient town has been relocated to the lower reachesThe 4 km ladder-shaped Wangtuo area has become a water town on the northeast Guizhou plateau。

Between Qianshan and Yushui, from black otter along the river to Hongdu Pangtan91公里的地段,乌江成为贵州、重庆两地的自然界河,东岸为重庆,西岸属贵州(在重庆彭水、酉阳境内,时有零星土地划归贵州沿河管辖。It is said that this is the dowry of a girl from a big family in Chongqing who married a Tujia man in Guizhou in the past。People along the river call it "maiden land")。

Starting from Hongdu Town, the Wujiang River will bid farewell to Guizhou and enter the embrace of the Yangtze River in Fuling, Chongqing。

We continued along the Wujiang River, hoping to witness the magnificent moment when the Wujiang River flowed into the Yangtze River。

启程时已接近傍晚,本也可以等到第二天天明再动身,可接近终点的喜悦,让我们有一种迫不及待的冲动,容不得片刻的停留和等待了。于是,我们乘船从洪渡,经思毛坝,出庞滩,乌江也就完全进入了重庆地界,但江水却丝毫看不出地界之分,风光依旧秀美迷人,让我们半刻也顾不得旅途疲惫,站在甲板上看个不停。

当水路不太容易行走时,我们换作陆路继续前行。The 319 National Highway is paved along the river, so that we not only did not miss the slightest bit of water beauty, but also had another unique perspective of bird's eye view of the Wujiang River。

Of course, we still prefer the feeling of close contact with the Wujiang water, once the waterway is slightly suitable for boating, we switch to speedboats。After ten hours of walking and stopping, we finally arrived at the first county where the Wujiang River flows through Chongqing——彭水。

Pengshui Pier looked busy, and we had only been ashore for ten minutes or so, waiting for three or four full passenger and cargo ships。These ships are all between Chongqing and Guizhou。

According to Pengshui people, compared with the past, the scene at the pier today is really very deserted。

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自汉初开始,历经十朝代,彭水一直It is now the political, military, economic and cultural center of Chongqing, Guizhou, Hunan and Hubei.At that timeThe stronghold where the central government exercises control over the ethnic minorities in the central areas of the southwest border。At the end of Ming Dynasty and the beginning of Qing Dynasty, due to the opening of Wujiang Salt Road“彭水财富,甲于酉属”。彭水码头,每日Boats are moving, commerce and commerce converge, general merchandise gathers, salt, tea, oil, paint, ramie and other things are transferred everywhereDue to its special geographical location,加上川湘公路通道In particular, the opening of the Yuhuai Railway has made彭水至今仍是The northeast of Guizhou, such as Shiqian, Sinan, Tongren, Songtao, Yanhe and other counties and cities into重庆、四川的必经之地,也是四川、Chongqing to the southeast coastal area of the most convenient land passage。

From Pengshui along the river, across the estuary, Wulong, Tukan, Yangjiao Moraine, also close to the Wujiang and Yangtze River confluence of Fuling city。

人类学家曾说,江河合流Place that...最适合人类生存。If the Yangtze River took away the mustard of Fuling, then the Wujiang River took away the salt of Fuling。Therefore, it is the Wujiang River and the Yangtze River, with pickled mustard and salt, that supported Fuling's prosperity and enduring prosperity for thousands of years。

乾隆元Year (AD)1736年),随着涪岸的建立,The Wujiang River waterwaySalt ships flow continuously, more and more merchants, along the two sides of the hotel, inn denselyMing and Qing dynasties,政府Or folkInvest in efforts to dredge and repair乌江水陆通道,Make the flood crossing in the northeast of GuizhouSi Qu, along the river, Qi Tan, Xing Tan, tide Strop, Sinan, Wenjia shop, river flash crossingAnd so the town grew and flourishedAnd also带动兴起了locally一些相关的手工行业。For example, the oil pressing industry along the river, Sinan's shipbuilding and weaving, Shiqian's wine making, tea industry and so on。乌江盐路的开通成为当时推动Northeast Guizhou经济繁荣的首要因素

Wujiang thousands of ships on the wall to Fuling。

今天,When we走进涪陵Some remaining fragments of history become clearer with imagination。All kinds of nostalgic prose in the bookstoreTreatise on peaceEmerge in endlessly。Be the same as...Fuling people talk about Fuling, they will say more:Our Fuling was one of the busiest water wharfs at that time”。

Yes, Fuling was once built in the Ming and Qing Dynasties9A water pier, Fuling people in those years of life heavy color thick sweeping part of the Yangtze River and Wujiang confluence on these water piers。如今Because of the dam, Fuling这些码头已荡然无存。

Before that, it was a bustling place。每个码头的建筑无不According to the mountain, face water and live, scattered, ancientCarefree rhymeIt is said that at the time of the water pier, there is a called Jinxiu Island, there is a market on the island, called radish city。Whenever the dry season, the Yangtze River side a long natural beach is exposed, people came to the beach with bamboo bamboo basks and reed hut, began trading, and the Yangtze River, Wujiang6789In the season of high water, all the bamboo sheds are torn down and the market breaks up。

The water rises and disperses, and the water dries and gathers. This kind of market method that rises with the natural rhythm of the Yangtze River can be traced back to the Northern Zhou Dynasty, according to the research of relevant people。然萝卜市的出现是在涪岸开通after清光绪年间。It's called turnip Market, of course, and it's not just about buying and selling turnip。In fact,It is a local product trading place formed along with the salt transport dock,When the Yangtze River and Wujiang River are in the dry season,集市正旺,江岸之上帆樯云集,Ships from south to north anchored at the dock,It shipped all kinds of goods,On a boat or on a sandbar,The shore offers everything from food, accommodation to entertainment,成街成市。水码头就是这样一个载来和载走货物的繁华之地。

But now, the water pier and Radish City are just a sight in people's memories,The city of Fuling, on the other hand, is becoming increasingly clean and beautiful。

We drove in the direction of Fuling Wujiang Bridge Two。This is the last bridge across the Wujiang River, the newly built single-cable plane cable-stayed bridge looks especially beautiful under the sunset。Today, the bridge is also the best view from which to see the intersection of the Wujiang and Yangtze rivers。

站在桥上,不禁Think of the poem "Broken Chapter" by the poet Bian Zhilin“你站在桥上看风景,看风景的人在楼上看你。The moon adorns your Windows, and you adorn the dreams of others。”

从桥上望去,在两江汇合口,Dark greenThe river water collided with the brown yellow Yangtze River torrentwhirlpoolClear and clear形成“一河两景观其势如野马分鬃Very strong丽。Along the Yangjiang River河岸,高楼林立,The two Rivers ropewayFlying through the airPassenger ship cargo ship铁驳木舟Row upon row……

Coming all the way from the source of the Wujiang River, when watching this trickle of water eventually deduces into such a vast river, I can no longer use words to describe my inner excitement。This way, we along the Wujiang River footprints forward, every day, are intoxicated by the charming scenery on both sides, feel the shoreThere have been songs of life and death cry, love and hate……

 

 

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作者简介:Luo Zhongxi, male, born in Shiqian, Guizhou, Dong nationality, without Party affiliation,三级教授,硕士生导师。He is a member of the ninth National Youth Federation, a Standing Committee member of the seventh Youth Federation of Guizhou Province, a national outstanding teacher, and a director of the Dong Literature Branch of the Fourth Chinese Minority Society。著有《黄金城登录》《黄金城登录》《hjc黄金城登录注册》《hjc黄金城登录注册》《黄金城登录》以及文学著作等10余部。He has published more than 100 papers and works in newspapers and magazines such as "Chinese Writer", "Ethnic Literature", "Literature and Art Newspaper" and "Guizhou Ethnic Studies"。